Play in Lower Steering Column Assembly U joints

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  • estoguy
    replied
    Hey guys... thanks for all the input. I started looking at things and found that the rack route was going to be the easiest. Got everything out last Sunday and put back together in about 5-6 hours (including servicing my front brakes). It all went pretty well. Was a little worried at first when I was trying to get the tie rod ends out. I'd gotten a tie rod end puller from Crappy Tire, but it was the U-shaped one. The jaws were too wide to work with my E30 and they didn't have the other style. Good thing was the shop I was working in had a copper mallet and I semi gently hammered them out, without damaging the tops of the ends. Had to hammer off the lower U-joint too... it was stuck good on the rack. Coated the splines with Krown spray before putting it back together, just on the off chance I might have to do that again some day. Alignment was still perfect after reassembly. Just had to realign the steering wheel as the column turned a bit during the job.

    The other hard part was maneuvering the rack and getting the 22mm banjo bolt back on without losing the washer. Was cursing that a bit. LOL

    Otherwise though, not a terribly hard job, just a bit time consuming.

    Luckily the place I work is uber quiet on the weekends, so I saved money and got paid doing it! SCORE!

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  • Haystack
    replied
    I just removed the shear bolts from a parts car recently... I dremeled a groove in them to try and use a flat head.. that didn't work for sh!t. What I ended up doing is dremeling the bolt and washer down flat on opposite sides and using vice grips. After that they popped right out. I'll be doing this to my non parts car because I'd like to change the steering column cover to one that's not cracked, without removing the dash.

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  • CarsSuck
    replied
    That has not worked for me, but I have a late model. I still wouldn't bet on it.

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  • estoguy
    replied
    I tried to get the upper clamp higher onto the upper steering column over the weekend to try to get around getting the rack out. No go Joe. :(

    I'm not scared of the shear bolts... I'm just generally annoyed that what should be a relatively easy swap is going to be a lot of work.

    I read somewhere that the shear bolts can be replaced with general M8 bolts. If I can get some hoist time at one of the high schools I sub teach at, I'll probably go the rack route.

    Once I undo the mounting bolts on it, will I get enough play in the rack to get the lower u-joint off? I really don't want to have to take anything else apart if I can avoid it.

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  • noahsense
    replied
    Don't let the shear nuts scare you. Cut a groove with a dremmel and remove - go slow and you'll be fine. Sheer nuts are available and super easy to install.

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  • estoguy
    replied
    OK, I've got the car on stands... honestly working with the rack is going to be a major PITA from the ground.

    I need about 2 inches of clearance at either end so I can get it out. It is an 86 325, so I don't have that 32mm nut on the column.

    My options are to either drop the steering rack (which is going to be daunting from the position I'm in. Right now, I'm not a fan of this idea.

    Or somehow pull back the steering column into the car to get the clearance.

    Anyone done this before? What did you do?

    I'm a little lost how to pull the column... Bentley is vague on this process. I have that official manual (v7) and it talks about removing these shear nuts... UGH.

    Thanks a bunch! I'm hoping to try to do this over the weekend... If not, I'm going to talk to the teachers at one of schools I supply at and possibly get some hoist time.

    Big question about the rack: Should I be able to do this job WITHOUT undoing all the other crap? I'm hoping that undoing the mounting bolts will be enough.
    Last edited by estoguy; 04-03-2015, 11:13 AM.

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  • estoguy
    replied
    So what I'm understanding then, is that I'll have to drop the rack?

    Possible to just loosen it enough to get the clearance I need to pull that assembly out?

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  • glucklich21
    replied
    Originally posted by noahsense
    That big nut is peculiar to airbag cars.

    If any airbag folks see this thread, a 32mm fan clutch wrench is the perfect tool to crank this thing down. Threadlocker (start with blue) might be necessary if it keeps coming undone.

    Yeah this is a late model thing. I do know it came on non airbag cars however. A friend's 89 (11/88 build date) had the nut.

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  • noahsense
    replied
    That big nut is peculiar to airbag cars.

    If any airbag folks see this thread, a 32mm fan clutch wrench is the perfect tool to crank this thing down. Threadlocker (start with blue) might be necessary if it keeps coming undone.

    Leave a comment:


  • estoguy
    replied
    Ah gotcha... must be under the column trim. Thanks!

    Mine looks like the pic above the one you linked... it's an 86 325. I'm fearing I don't have this nut.
    Last edited by estoguy; 04-01-2015, 05:01 PM.

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  • glucklich21
    replied
    This guy right here:

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  • estoguy
    replied
    Thanks brother! Much appreciated!

    Sorry... haven't been under there in awhile... where abouts is this "big nut" and how big? Thanks!

    Are we talking the clamp at the bottom of the tube, by the gas pedal? #6



    Or something else altogether?
    Last edited by estoguy; 04-01-2015, 03:42 PM.

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  • glucklich21
    replied
    You'll need to undo the large nut on the steering column under the dash. If that won't give you'll have to remove the rack.

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  • estoguy
    replied
    The one I got cost me $50. No rust on it at all, and everything was nice and tight.

    BTW - Any tips on doing this job, or is it pretty straight forward. As near as I can tell, I just need to undo the lock nuts on either end and make sure it's lined up properly.

    Do I need to remove anything else to do this, or is it a simple swap?

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  • glucklich21
    replied
    I know a new one is around $130 dollars. A bit spendy, but its not like you would have to replace it for another 20 something years.

    From what I recall the u-joints are pressed in so in theory you could.

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