help. bouncy car

[DRTSRFR]

Those rates are actually on the softer side of the spectrum.
I run 650s on my Euro car which is the lightest chassis of the three I own.

Have any other changes been made to the suspension? Ie; bushings etc...

I have three e30s currently running on GCs, and have installed many systems over the years... never had bouncing problems.

Can you get some pics under the car for us?

[325isdan]

The trailing arm bushings look good and the sub frame as well. the subframe are polly I think. they are green. I had the car aligned and it was in spec. the car does have adjustable sway bar links. could they be adjusted incorrectly? I will add which this might be the issue but the rear passenger side does sit a bit lower then the driver side. so when I adjusted the spring height the adjustments are different on each side for the car to sit level. I would say maybe .5inch difference.

I'll try and get pics tomorrow evening.

I did post somewhere else and was told those konis are rated for 500 springs. Is that true?

[DRTSRFR]

The Poly may be contributing. If the trailing arms were tightened with the car off of the ground, they will be bound when the car is lowered back on the ground adding to the perceived spring rate. I would definitely get the rear on ramps, loosen and re-tighten all of the pivot points to start.

...just got to jump through some hoops. We'll get this figured out.

[325isdan]

great thanks I'll give that a try. these mods were done to the car when I got it.

once loosened should I jack the car up to break the seal and lower it back down or will loosening the bolts be good enough?

[DRTSRFR]

Just loosening the bolts should do the trick...

[325isdan]

well it hit a major snag. I can't for the life of me undo any of the subframe or trailing arm bolts. plus the trailing arm bolts where put on with the nuts facing the SF bushings and the dif.

I tried using a 2ft breaker and an impact gun (electirc). guess I'm going to have to find a shop that can break them loose for me.

I did snap some shot



Will this gap cause me issues? this is the drivers side.

passenger side






[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/7e88e843539d
1959106b2c0d4012a60f.jpg[/IMG]

[325isdan]

also should the sway bar links be angled liked this?

[staysideways]

Try the bounce test press down on the car and if it comes back up and goes down a little you are good but if it hops then bad news for your shocks

1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

[DRTSRFR]

That's an Ireland Engineering adjustable bar.

The links should be as close to vertical as possible while keeping the arms of the bar somewhat parallel to the ground.

Those sliding adjusters are known to slip.

[325isdan]

I am going to assume even if adjusted incorrectly the drop links would have no affect on my situation?

I'm going to take a video of my car and let you guys judge. It maybe fine since I'm not familiar with coil overs. I can only compare to regular and lowered suspension.

[DRTSRFR]

Actually, they may. In that position, the links are pulling and pushing fore and aft when the trailing arms are articulating. The bar can't move that way so a bind is created.

[325isdan]

Thanks again for all your help and patience. big ups to you.

I going to give this a try but is it OK to run no rear sway bar but rear shock tower bar?

[DRTSRFR]

Anytime!

No problem either way. Keep in mind, running no rear bar will increase the cars tendency to understeer at limit.

[325isdan]

Hi so I removed the sway bar and no real change but I'm starting to think the springs are toast.

I have the driver side adjusted to the lowest setting and the passage side to the highest and the car is still not fully level. Bad springs?

[325isdan]

or is that a sign my bushings are binding?