I'm sure I will get flamed for this but...

[DanielHStout]

I love it! So I had an extra set of stock springs laying around so I decided to go ahead and give this a try. Sorry there are no before and afters of the rear. If anyone has any questions let me know. Sorry for the phone pics.


Cut the rear springs in the middle.

Tack them together with a wire feed. Then burn the welds in with a tig welder.

Painted and installed on the rear.

Front before.

Front after.

I know what you all are thinking but this turned out way better than I expected it to. It handles good, not bouncy at all with newer dampers, I don't bottom out or rub and it looks great.

Proceed with the flaming.

[Brian D]

Be sure to give us an update in about a month.

[mattdk318i]

sorry to shit on this, But that thing is going to ride like crap, And i hope those welds hold up, For your sake.


Matt

[Charlie]

H&R sports go for 50-100 bucks used, it's an hour job to swap out front springs. I'd much rather do that than however long it took to cut & weld those abortions.

-Charlie

[1991 318is]

Welds?

I don't know about them welds! Could be some local brittle areas.
However the cut springs are pretty much a tried and true method. After cutting, heat the last half turn and duplicate the flattened part of the original last coil. Cooling is the critical part. As long as you can drag it out. A bucket of sand preheated with scrap pieces is good. Put the spring in and let it cool on it's own. Do NOT quench! When springs are made they are wound red hot and then oil or water quenched. Then they are annealed to be softer and more flexible by heating and then cooling slowly. You can't duplicate the original annealing without knowing the spec and having them done professionaly. You can get real close though on the last half of the end coil. It's shaped to fit the spring seat and does no work at all.
Like the previous post said, let us know about the welded rears. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stress relieve them.
The only flaming you'll get from me is with a rosebud tip. I like your attitude!

[Dave]

I call dibs on the wheels when he has to part it out.

Oh, and BTW, would your family need a lawyer to handle your estate?

[kingtux]

Where can you gets those springs for 50-100 bucks?? I want bad!!

[1991 318is]

H&R sports go for 50-100 bucks used, it's an hour job to swap out front springs. I'd much rather do that than however long it took to cut & weld those abortions.

-Charlie

I got $50 - want to come over to my house for an hour?

[ColdAccord]

100 bucks usually

and i think cut springs are crap. im buying a 90 325is that has cut front springs and it rides like shit. my bavautos (saggy bitchwores) on my winter 325e were MUCH better, and they're probably the worst e30 spring on the market

[Charlie]

I got $50 - want to come over to my house for an hour?

Impact wrench, pickle fork and some spring compressors, it's an hour job.

-Charlie

[DEV0 E30]

Since you are strapped for cash I'll buy your wheels for $200.

[2002maniac]

and i think cut springs are crap. im buying a 90 325is that has cut front springs and it rides like shit.

Because the shocks are blown. Cut springs dont make your car "handle like crap"

Common myth:

Cut springs handle like crap.

Truth:

A springs stiffness is calculated using coil diameter, wire thickness, # of coils, and a constant for the specific material.

Cut a coil off and the spring gets stiffer! They wont be as stiff as aftermarket lowering springs but the car WILL HANDLE BETTER with appropriate damping.

Welding springs without proper heat treating is another story...

[DanielHStout]

I don't know about them welds! Could be some local brittle areas.
However the cut springs are pretty much a tried and true method. After cutting, heat the last half turn and duplicate the flattened part of the original last coil. Cooling is the critical part. As long as you can drag it out. A bucket of sand preheated with scrap pieces is good. Put the spring in and let it cool on it's own. Do NOT quench! When springs are made they are wound red hot and then oil or water quenched. Then they are annealed to be softer and more flexible by heating and then cooling slowly. You can't duplicate the original annealing without knowing the spec and having them done professionaly. You can get real close though on the last half of the end coil. It's shaped to fit the spring seat and does no work at all.
Like the previous post said, let us know about the welded rears. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stress relieve them.
The only flaming you'll get from me is with a rosebud tip. I like your attitude!

I have had these springs on here for almost two months now without any problems. I didn't post before for fear of the said flamage. Since I have had them on now for some time without problems I figured I would put it up. I researched the process alot before I did it, plus I had an extra set of springs anyway so why not. I peaned the welds on the rears and let them cool slowly. I also heated the ends on the fronts and bent them to match the spring seats. As of yesterday there are no cracks on the rears so I am not too worried.

I have hit those big speed hump things at like 30 mph without any problems! It honestly doesn't ride like shit. The shocks were like a month old when I did it but I plan to upgrade to sport shocks when they wear out. I only have like $700 into this whole car so I don't feal that bad anyway.

There is guy from Eugene on here that did the exact same on his flawless euro 323 and has had the welded rears on for a while too. Its not like I slammed it or anything so I still have plenty of clearance.

Here's the '85 Euro 323i that showed up. None of us had EVER seen the front airdam on this car before, but it has a BMW part number and a Roundel stamped into it. This car was completely perfect. The owner is the guy in the white shirt standing to the left the big guy in the black shirt. He found it at a used car lot about 3 months ago in Eugene. His name is Eric Jones, he owns a shop in Eugene, also.

The ride height on mine is the same as his except my rear is a little higher. Like I said this turned out way better than I expected, it didnt take that much effort and it didn't cost a dime. If you have good facilitys and all the right tools I think that this can really be done right. Luke can back me up on the ride, he has been in my car before. It is just a little stiffer than stock. Honestly no bounce at all! :up:
I don't think you could slam a car this way but if your just going to lower it a bit it worked perfect for me. If my rears ever start to crack then I will just put the stock setup back on. So flame me all you want. :D

[DanielHStout]

Since you are strapped for cash I'll buy your wheels for $200.

I'm not strapped. I could have bought sport springs but I thought I would experiment a little before I dropped the $$$. Turned out I didn't need to buy them. I am currently in the process of refinishing the wheels so you can keep your grubby little hands off them.

Because the shocks are blown. Cut springs dont make your car "handle like crap"

Common myth:

Cut springs handle like crap.

Truth:

A springs stiffness is calculated using coil diameter, wire thickness, # of coils, and a constant for the specific material.

Cut a coil off and the spring gets stiffer! They wont be as stiff as aftermarket lowering springs but the car WILL HANDLE BETTER with appropriate damping.

Welding springs without proper heat treating is another story...

Thank you. I think peaning the rears work just fine... They haven't snapped yet.

[StereoInstaller1]

Why the fuck do you guys think a broken spring is gonna kill young Daniel?

He is "Stout"er than that.

Luke