Help: front suspension disassembly

[Austrianvespaguy]

So, stuck on two accounts:

1.) How do you remove the front lower control arms from the front subframe? Frame is too thick to get my ball joint tool around it and access from the top is too tight to get anything in there. Can you just pry between the subframe and the arm until it pops off?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6JMGarwf8uXvwzZw9

2.) Car has SPC camber plates on it, and for the life of me I can't get a wrench down in there around the strut nut while leaving the 8mm hex on the end of the strut free to hold it still. Is there another good way to hold the strut from spinning while I loosen the nut with a socket?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EwYFWXPJ9Vfr5dqt8

(Linking pics since r3v won't allow anything but thumbnail sizes to be uploaded)

[HerbE30]

So, stuck on two accounts:

1.) How do you remove the front lower control arms from the front subframe? Frame is too thick to get my ball joint tool around it and access from the top is too tight to get anything in there. Can you just pry between the subframe and the arm until it pops off?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6JMGarwf8uXvwzZw9

2.) Car has SPC camber plates on it, and for the life of me I can't get a wrench down in there around the strut nut while leaving the 8mm hex on the end of the strut free to hold it still. Is there another good way to hold the strut from spinning while I loosen the nut with a socket?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EwYFWXPJ9Vfr5dqt8

(Linking pics since r3v won't allow anything but thumbnail sizes to be uploaded)

1.) A pickle fork will do the job.. However its probably going to ruin the boot.



2.) I would say you have a couple of options.

Option 1- Pass-thru wrench set.

Option 2- Vice grips and a rag on the shaft of the shock to prevent it from spinning out. Wouldn't favor this option, but in a pinch it should work.

[slum dog]

Control arms go old school and shock it loose, get a 4pound hammer and hit the corner of the control arm,
Pry bar won't really help much those things are snug tight in there.

Lock a vise grip on the shock bar between springs and that will stop it from turning has long as you have the correct tube socket you good to go. No need for Allen key.

I had to use these methods to remove the original 30 year old struts and control arms when these fancy tools just can't cut it.

Also put some old brake fluid or Wd40 on nuts bolts beforehand helps a little bit also.

[Austrianvespaguy]

Thanks guys, broke down and bought a pass through socket set to get the nut off, but at least that worked fine. Then it took the combined efforts of the blowtorch and gigantor plumbing wrench to get that gland nut off, but finally got it and the damper (which has been nothing more than a passenger for QUITE some time now) is now out! Tomorrow will attack the control arm with the pickle fork and 4# sledge and hope for the best!

[HerbE30]

Thanks guys, broke down and bought a pass through socket set to get the nut off, but at least that worked fine. Then it took the combined efforts of the blowtorch and gigantor plumbing wrench to get that gland nut off, but finally got it and the damper (which has been nothing more than a passenger for QUITE some time now) is now out! Tomorrow will attack the control arm with the pickle fork and 4# sledge and hope for the best!

Pickle fork and a sledge will pop it off quick!

[Austrianvespaguy]

Yay, both sides off! Pickle fork worked, but needed some tweaking, my fork wasn't originally wide enough to fit around the ball joint shaft! But with just a tiny bit of grinding it did, and now both control arms are free, and also both lollipops are now free of the control arms! Will just have a shop press those bushings out for me, and pop in new Urethane bushings and new control arms and she'll go back together. Hoping that getting that control arm nut on top of the subframe tightened down won't cause me another giant headache. . .

[HerbE30]

Yay, both sides off! Pickle fork worked, but needed some tweaking, my fork wasn't originally wide enough to fit around the ball joint shaft! But with just a tiny bit of grinding it did, and now both control arms are free, and also both lollipops are now free of the control arms! Will just have a shop press those bushings out for me, and pop in new Urethane bushings and new control arms and she'll go back together. Hoping that getting that control arm nut on top of the subframe tightened down won't cause me another giant headache. . .

If you wanted to, just burn the bushings out with a torch. Or cut them, or find some pipe with the correct diameter and use a large C-clamp.



Just throwing options out if you wanna save cash. ;)

[Austrianvespaguy]

Thanks @HerbE30, but I did already make a failed attempt at pressing them out, and while I'm familiar with the burn/cut method, the outer rings are pretty rusted to the lollipops; so I think it'll be pretty quick'n'cheap to just have the shop do that part. But thanks, always appreciate the DIY recommendation!

[AndrewBird]

FYI, you can use an impact on the strut nut to get it loose. No need to hold the shaft.

[Austrianvespaguy]

Anybody know if there's supposed to be some play in the upper strut mount bearing? See my other thread here; doesn't seem quite like it's supposed to be but I don't think it's going to be a huge issue, so probably going to leave it. Just still wondering if it's 'correct' or worn though:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?p=4928072