control arm, tie rod, and shock install advice needed

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • automatic
    Advanced Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 142

    #1

    control arm, tie rod, and shock install advice needed

    I have a set of bilstein hd's, new control arms w/ m3 bushings, and tierods sitting in my living room ready to be installed. I am thinking about tackling them this weekend but i've never done work on a BMW before, I have done shocks and springs on a few Subarus though.

    Other then the parts I mentioned above i have new rear upper shock mounts and new rubber spring pads. I have a decent set of tools but no air tools, question is what if anything am i missing and should i be able to get this done in a day considering no previous experience?

    Should I even attempt to do it all at once or do it in phases?
    1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS
  • StereoInstaller1
    GAS
    • Jul 2004
    • 22679

    #2
    Go buy a 22mm stubby wrench for the inner ball joints if you don't already have one. Since you are replacing the ball joints too, have a pickle fork on hand.

    What do you have for springs? Anything lower than M3 springs will kill those HD's pretty quick.

    Luke

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

    Comment

    • Simon S
      No R3VLimiter
      • Oct 2004
      • 3758

      #3
      Cool. you are in situation I was once in..

      I tend to like tackling a lot of things ‘while I’m at it’ so I’d recommend doing it all at once.

      Can it be done in a day ? Sure.
      Advisable to double estimated time for bad-case-scenario issues that might arise.
      Alignment recommended/needed afterward.

      Suspension rebuilds are both challenging and rewarding.
      You’ll save considerable $ doing it yourself.

      I actually purchased pneumatic tools prior to my first rebuild thinking that I’d need them.
      I didn’t.
      My 2ft. breaker bar won over my impact time after time.
      (I did, however, end up using pneumatic wire blitzers considerably for clean-up/paint prep)

      Sounds to me like you’re capable.

      Arm yourself with good resources such as:
      pelican parts articles
      e30tuner.com/rebuild
      bmwe30.net


      Check list:
      * Jack stands.
      * Those cheap retainer lock washers for tie rods. (2)
      * 2 large pipe wrenches for strut/strut housing collar nut removal and installation.
      * Blue loc-tite
      * Small propane torch for any extra-stubborn nuts/bolts
      * PB blaster (penetrating oil)
      * Spring clamps. (~$20) needed for front – not for rear.
      * 2 or 3 jaw gear puller for CAB removal. (yeah – you won’t be reusing the control arm or the CAB, but you’ll still need it to reuse ‘lollipops’.
      * Knee-pads help out if you have some years on ya
      * Torque wrench
      * I bought a pickle fork but ended up having better luck using ~6” socket extension placed with one end on the ball joint pointing straight up behind brake rotor – which allowed for good hammer point in order to pop it loose.








      good times.
      -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

      Comment

      • automatic
        Advanced Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 142

        #4
        Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
        Go buy a 22mm stubby wrench for the inner ball joints if you don't already have one. Since you are replacing the ball joints too, have a pickle fork on hand.

        What do you have for springs? Anything lower than M3 springs will kill those HD's pretty quick.

        Luke

        I am going to use stock springs for now until I can source a set of M3 or H&R OE's
        1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

        Comment

        • AdironRider
          No R3VLimiter
          • Dec 2004
          • 3491

          #5
          Definately get the OE sports. I have the same setup and its absolutely incredible.

          Should be good to go I think. Definately get an alignment afterwards and allow time for mistakes, problems, etc. Good luck killer.
          Back to my roots

          Comment

          • automatic
            Advanced Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 142

            #6
            I only did the rear Bilstein's this weekend, my WRX was in the shop getting some work done and I didn't want to tackle the front end without backup transportation.

            The problem is with the new Bilstein HD's the rear end is still bouncy, if you push down on the trunk it bounces up and down with minimal effort. Compare this to my friends e36 with stock springs and HD's his is much stiffer.

            Could this be the result of worn springs? I have the original 318i springs with 130k+ miles on them
            1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

            Comment

            • Mike325
              No R3VLimiter
              • Mar 2006
              • 3685

              #7
              Sounds like worn springs in the rear to me. Good luck:D
              Originally posted by cabriodster87
              "Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."
              Originally posted by Kershaw
              i've got a boner and a desire to speed.

              Comment

              • automatic
                Advanced Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 142

                #8
                I ordered the H&R OE's from EuroDepot, should have them next week.
                1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

                Comment

                • flagger123
                  Noobie
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 9

                  #9
                  I know this is an old thread but i dident wanna start another tread so here it goes

                  I am doing a total overhaul on my front suspension inducing new coil overs, all new bushings, and new CA's i have all the parts and i have the old struts out but i can't seem to get the top bolt of the CA to come out. Its just the location of them and i can't seem to get a good grip on em'. I got the 2 bolts for the bushings out and all of that but i just can't seem to get the last one out. If any one has any suggestion is would be greatly appreciated.

                  Comment

                  • CorvallisBMW
                    Long Schlong Longhammer
                    • Feb 2005
                    • 13039

                    #10
                    Holy threadbump Batman!

                    j/k, it's all good. I just had to get in there with a regular 22mm box wrench and work them loose through thousands of tiny, tiny turns. If they are stuck, you can also tap the wrench with a mallet. You may also be able to get a 22mm socket, swivel adapter and 3' extension to work. maybe.

                    Comment

                    • flagger123
                      Noobie
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 9

                      #11
                      Originally posted by CorvallisBMW
                      Holy threadbump Batman!

                      j/k, it's all good. I just had to get in there with a regular 22mm box wrench and work them loose through thousands of tiny, tiny turns. If they are stuck, you can also tap the wrench with a mallet. You may also be able to get a 22mm socket, swivel adapter and 3' extension to work. maybe.
                      I just hate to start new threads lol

                      i tried to get a socket on it but their seems to be a motor mount or the subframe mount or something is in the way :-/

                      Comment

                      • Schmalex
                        Member
                        • Jun 2008
                        • 97

                        #12
                        Since this was recently bumped, figured i would post here. I am doing the same thing but wanted to confirm my parts checklist.

                        Sway bar link x2
                        sway bar mounting brackets x4
                        Sway bushings x2
                        Trailing Arm bushings x4
                        Control Arms x2
                        Control Arms mounting bracket x2
                        Control Arm bushings x2
                        Tie Rods x2
                        Strut mount x2
                        Rear Shock Mount x2


                        Anything im missing (or dont need for that matter)?
                        Originally posted by Mr Watsonsilver
                        Im a stright A student
                        89 325i (dead)
                        89 325is

                        Comment

                        • Vedubin01
                          R3V Elite
                          • Jun 2006
                          • 5852

                          #13
                          heat works well for those things that dont like to come apart. Just watch for fires...
                          Build your own dreams, or someone else will hire you to build theirs!

                          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                          Comment

                          • Vedubin01
                            R3V Elite
                            • Jun 2006
                            • 5852

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Schmalex
                            Since this was recently bumped, figured i would post here. I am doing the same thing but wanted to confirm my parts checklist.

                            Sway bar link x2
                            sway bar mounting brackets x4
                            Sway bushings x2
                            Trailing Arm bushings x4
                            Control Arms x2
                            Control Arms mounting bracket x2
                            Control Arm bushings x2
                            Tie Rods x2
                            Strut mount x2
                            Rear Shock Mount x2


                            Anything im missing (or dont need for that matter)?

                            Subframe bushings, rear adjustible camber plates(the weld in tabs or adjustible bushing) Diff bushing if your there
                            Build your own dreams, or someone else will hire you to build theirs!

                            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                            Comment

                            • atomic
                              R3V Elite
                              • Jun 2007
                              • 5691

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Schmalex
                              Since this was recently bumped, figured i would post here. I am doing the same thing but wanted to confirm my parts checklist.

                              Sway bar link x2
                              sway bar mounting brackets x4
                              Sway bushings x2
                              Trailing Arm bushings x4
                              Control Arms x2
                              Control Arms mounting bracket x2
                              Control Arm bushings x2
                              Tie Rods x2
                              Strut mount x2
                              Rear Shock Mount x2


                              Anything im missing (or dont need for that matter)?

                              You do not have to buy CA brackets, you can just cut the old bushings out and press in new bushings. Just orient them the way they are meant to be done. E36 M3 bushings are a great upgrade as they are solid or the e30 M3 offset ones are good too.

                              You also should not have to buy strut bearings/mounts either. I have yet to see one that is bad and that is a part that does not see a lot of hard wear.

                              Make sure to replace the tie rod boots with two new ones and new clamps as well, two large and two small or zip ties.

                              I went with new larger sway bars so I used the bushings and such that came with the kit for that. Not sure what you need to replace there if staying with oem sways.

                              Comment

                              Working...