I was just seeing what my options are and what route you guys took to get your camber adjusted. I'm about 2.25 negative front and rear, and my tires are definetly showing that after 2200 miles. I heard of camber plates for the rear, but from what I heard they aren't legit and the adjustment gets thrown off after several months. Another method i heard of requires taking off the subframe and some welding. I don't really want to deal with that since i already took off my rear subframe and trailing arms to put on urethane bushings. I haven't done much research on this, but I'm hoping you guys will point me in the right direction. I'm just not trying to spend a fortune to adjust my camber and not trying to go through a set of tires every 10,000 miles.
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well since you just shat on both of your real options all i can say is rotate your tires, if theyre directional take them to a tire shop and have them swap what wheels theyre on (ie take a left tire of its rim and put it on one of the rims on the right side)
past that your options are camber correcting trailing arm bushings, ive read AKG makes the best, or the weld in kitsYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninjaIm more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
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Originally posted by rs4pro3 View PostAdjust your toe, I run -3.5 camber all the way around on my car no weird tire wear. Toe is what eats tires not camber.
I have a hard time seeing half of the width of the tire not touching the ground NOT causing odd, uneven tire wear. Several of the shops I have spoken with suggest using the IE adjustable trailing arm setup. $150 on parts vs. cubic dollars in tires. Who knows...I am just sick of the tire wear issues Personally, I would like better straight line stability. My car is a DD, not the canyon carver/cone killer it thinks it is.
Luke
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for the front you can get camber plates
the rear is where you use teh bushings, im not sure how much adjustment they give, i dont have themYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninjaIm more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
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Originally posted by bimmerobsession View PostI was just seeing what my options are and what route you guys took to get your camber adjusted. I'm about 2.25 negative front and rear, and my tires are definetly showing that after 2200 miles. I heard of camber plates for the rear, but from what I heard they aren't legit and the adjustment gets thrown off after several months. Another method i heard of requires taking off the subframe and some welding. I don't really want to deal with that since i already took off my rear subframe and trailing arms to put on urethane bushings. I haven't done much research on this, but I'm hoping you guys will point me in the right direction. I'm just not trying to spend a fortune to adjust my camber and not trying to go through a set of tires every 10,000 miles.
Sure look like camber adjustments to me. I know about them because they came available like 1 week after I got the urethane ones.
That said, we will see where my camber ends up in the rear. I have heard there is a lot of variation in lowered E30s.
-E
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trent
Originally posted by ErykTheRead View PostThese just popped up on flyingbrickperformance.com not too long ago:
Sure look like camber adjustments to me. I know about them because they came available like 1 week after I got the urethane ones.
That said, we will see where my camber ends up in the rear. I have heard there is a lot of variation in lowered E30s.
-E
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Originally posted by trent View Postthat doesn't adjust anything. You have either two options, use the AKG trailing arm bushings, or use a weld in kit from SBi or Ireland. the SBi tabs are nicer tabs.
Your shock may be at a different angle, but that would be it. Too long looking at front suspension plates...
-E
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