Corrado shock Myth

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  • Rocla
    replied
    Originally posted by Fidhle007
    Ok, so assuming the strut housings I'm getting are indeed shortened, what exactly does my shock application have to be? G60 Corrado, what year? I will be ordering Bilstein Sports from worldpac and I need to know what I need.
    And do any other VW's share the shock? AFAIK Corrado is based on golf... correct me if I'm wrong.

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    Ok, so assuming the strut housings I'm getting are indeed shortened, what exactly does my shock application have to be? G60 Corrado, what year? I will be ordering Bilstein Sports from worldpac and I need to know what I need.

    Leave a comment:


  • etxxz
    replied
    ^^ yes that is also true
    Originally posted by Massive Lee
    From time I find such strange posts on r3v and can't keep myself from answering. Especially that this post can harm the truth.

    Corrado G60 inserts are the shocks to buy if you lower your car, and shorten the strut by about 1" in order to avoid bottoming out. Period.

    Maybe that etxxz had absolutely no clue what to do with it, but he should know that a spacer (tube) must be inserted at the bottom of the strut. Claiming to the world to keep away from the Corrado insert is simply spreading wrong information.
    NO this IS exactly the misinformation problem going around. you do not solve anything by placing spacers in the bottom.
    Originally posted by golde30
    here is a pic of a strut assembled using a Corrado G60 Koni SA. the strut is at the BOTTOM of the tube, w/ 3.75" spacer on TOP of the strut. dont mind my retarded face, mid-blink FTL...
    on the other hand, a spacer on the TOP of the shock insert will take care of those extra ~ 4inches i was talking about. The corrado insert does not fit tight in the strut housing (does have noticeable play and so does GC's) although the lock nut does fit snuggly over it and secures if from vibrating but you're running spacers here instead, sounds like it will have the same effect. ^^ Your setup probably worked perfectly i'm not gonna criticize, i was skeptical at first on wether i should have done that for the possibility of vibration/noises/broken shock.

    my point, so that people who attack what i'm trying to do for you understand, is that by this method you can make any shock that fits into our housing work. shorter longer thinner. there has to be something better out there.

    but my car's been at the track twice with no problems, once more at Sebring, FL at the end of this month and i'll be able to nail down any issues if any with this setup.

    (lol at pic btw)

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  • atomic
    replied
    I am in the process of putting the Ground Control's # 8641 1198spgc sturt inserts in my e30 and the strut body is roughly 4" shorter than the stock strut housing which came out of the car. And the GC shaft is about 2" longer than the stock shaft as well. I know this for a fact because I am waiting for GC to send me the spacers that they did not tell me I needed nor did they send them to me for my install. But you have to use a certain length spacer with a shortened strut housing to get more drop out of the car for race applications or for street you use a spacer that brings the strut housing up to the top of the uncut strut housing and run what springs you choose to have a street lowered car. I know nothing about the VW Carrado shocks as I did not find anything about that worthy of spending money on that route

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  • golde30
    replied
    here is a pic of a strut assembled using a Corrado G60 Koni SA. the strut is at the BOTTOM of the tube, w/ 3.75" spacer on TOP of the strut. dont mind my retarded face, mid-blink FTL...

    Leave a comment:


  • Massive Lee
    replied
    Originally posted by etxxz
    Continuing on. DO NOT GET CORRADO SHOCKS...not G60, not VR6 (koni strut assemblies).
    From time I find such strange posts on r3v and can't keep myself from answering. Especially that this post can harm the truth.

    Corrado G60 inserts are the shocks to buy if you lower your car, and shorten the strut by about 1" in order to avoid bottoming out. Period.

    Maybe that etxxz had absolutely no clue what to do with it, but he should know that a spacer (tube) must be inserted at the bottom of the strut. Claiming to the world to keep away from the Corrado insert is simply spreading wrong information.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fidhle007
    replied
    But if you have a 2" spacer (roughly) ON TOP of the shock body, then when it's compressed you'd only be left with 2" of overhang, which I'd think would be fine, what with springs and bearings and all that other crap that has to fit in there....

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  • Rocla
    replied
    Originally posted by etxxz
    you're suggesting cutting the shaft and rethreading what's left? them tubes are pretty darn tough to go though even with a cutoff disk then the cost of threading idk if a machine shop would do this for you. put a hacksaw to it see how far you get ;) ....... just get the right ones man.
    I've done that to original e30 shocks, that material indeed is hard, but this is doable in lathe that accepts long item such as shock. I didn't do extra thread, but I made a spacer that went between top nut and uppermount.

    I'd quess that is exactly what GC does, it's very simple while revalving as the piston is allready out from housing.

    I'll most certainly buy those shocks for my car, if I end up eith bad result you know who to blame :)

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  • JEvins55
    replied
    Why not just get some 2.5 ID helper springs. After all their job is to take up that extra space & they'll probably cost less than your restock fee.

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  • etxxz
    replied
    ^^ it can be done, but know that neither GC nor corrado shock fits 100% tight like original shocks, they do however fit perfectly into the top nut so if you don't want shaking spacer at the bottom is the way to go...sadly this is true idk why but it works haven't had any problems with my setup.
    Originally posted by Fidhle007
    So what shocks DOES one need for a shortened housing? I'm thinking about using Bilsteins anyway, so what would I need to buy?
    as far as i know to this day, Ground Control is your best bet, decent price too. although someone at bimmerforums told me M3 shocks but idk i have yet to go to advance auto and inspect the M3 shock.
    Originally posted by Rocla
    When corrado insert is bottomed out, how musch does the piston(shaft) extrude from housin(the shock housing not the strut)?



    Would it be possible to shorten the top end of the shaft and make longer thread or use spacers?



    I mean that GC obviously modifies those insert if that 4" thing is right.
    there's a good 4inches of shaft sticking out when you'r bottomed out.

    you're suggesting cutting the shaft and rethreading what's left? them tubes are pretty darn tough to go though even with a cutoff disk then the cost of threading idk if a machine shop would do this for you. put a hacksaw to it see how far you get ;) ....... just get the right ones man.

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    I thought the shock body sits lower in the strut housing and there's a spacer on top, thus accounting for the extra length?

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  • Rocla
    replied
    When corrado insert is bottomed out, how musch does the piston(shaft) extrude from housin(the shock housing not the strut)?

    Would it be possible to shorten the top end of the shaft and make longer thread or use spacers?

    I mean that GC obviously modifies those insert if that 4" thing is right.

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  • Fidhle007
    replied
    So what shocks DOES one need for a shortened housing? I'm thinking about using Bilsteins anyway, so what would I need to buy?

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  • etxxz
    replied
    ehhhh 30%right.
    Originally posted by DaveCN
    SHorter housing but greater shock travel - why would you not want that?
    you're gonna have the exact same shock travel (suposing same valving/stiffness)...it all depends on the springs you're running. but most importantly because with coilovers sleeve kits like ground control or cosmo, etc the spring WILL separate from the strut mount/hat a that's how things break on the street/track

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    because the piston isn't any shorter, maybe?
    its basically the exact opposite of what you want (ie. short piston leads to more shock travel without the danger of bottoming out the piston).

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