UUC Adjustable Camber Plate

[SFLBIMMERS]

Has any one here had any experience with this UUC Camber Plate?

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/

[NLM Hollywood]

Should have mine installed this weekend. Just got the assembly completed in the vice last night. Be careful with the 15-18ft/Lb button head bolts as they're easy to round off (crap HDWE). I ordered a 5mm Snap On stubby (TMAMXS5E) to minimize the risk.

[NLM Hollywood]

Got the strut assemblies back in the car last night. Only problem I had was I couldn't get the pass side outer control arm threaded post to slide under the strut assembly hole. Carefully trying to jack the strut assembly up didn't help. Could use advice on this?

[AndrewBird]

You are saying you couldn't get the outer ball joint to bolt up to the strut assembly? What exactly isn't working?

[NLM Hollywood]

It's just a clearance issue. Had no problem on the drivers side, but can't get the outer ball joint to slip under the strut housing. The tie rod ball joint was no problem. I haven't yet secured the inner CA ball joint, but it seems like when I try to push this down, it actually raises the outer ball joint making it more difficult, not less. Might simply be a two person operation, where one person pushes down on the CA and another pulls up on the strut assembly. It may also help to secure the inner CA ball joint as raising this as much as possibly seems to lower the outer ball joint.

[whodwho]

Are you fighting the tension of the sway bar? you might try undoing the sway bar link and try.

[NLM Hollywood]

Good point. Hadn't thought of that and the link is connected.

[NLM Hollywood]

That did it. Hard to believe I got the drivers side done with it connected.

[AndrewBird]

With no strut in the passenger side, that side can flex down with the drivers side. But when you bolt up the drivers side, you can't push down on the passenger side as far because the drivers side is holding it up.

[Zeshin]

These came on a wrecked car I purchased to fix up. The urethane bushing in the upper mount actually saved the strut tower from a lot of damage by ripping apart in the accident. The previous assembler of them really stripped out the round head hex bolts though, so they were a pain to remove and re-use, so be careful. Otherwise, they are a great setup for someone running a non-coilover setup. Also, they are made by SPC and not UUC.

[Zeshin]

Also, I was wondering how you guys chose to orient the top mounts in the camber plate. I mounted mine so that the strut is tilted more towards the firewall, as I thought it would better with increased caster.

[NLM Hollywood]

The UUC instructions are easy to find when you search on a mobile device, but seem to be harder to find on a PC. https://www.uucmotorwerks.com/suspen...70_install.htm The 4x numbers on part 2 determine what you get and since I'm looking for negative camber I have mine oriented towards #2 (L) and #4 (R). Increased caster is an option.
The hex bolts are complete shit and I'd recommend only using once. Once removed, replace. I did some partial damage while just testing mine out of the car. At this point I put my regular 3/8 drive Snap On FAM5E away and ordered a stubby TMAMXS5E (1/4 drive only). This helped, but I'd still recommend torqueing to 15 and not 18ft/Lbs (recommended range).

[Zeshin]

Thanks for the link. I think I'm going to re-orient my top plates now.