Car is back on the road; Next up is the suspension (sway bar

[///Mtechnik88]

After some time out of the bimmer with worn clutch, it's fixed and I am looking to upgrade the suspension next. The H&R Cup kit looks to be very nice and right around what I'm looking for (though I have some concerns over the 2.1" drop up front). If not that, maybe the Bilstien Sports/ HR springs (1.3 drop) for a less agressive look. I know this won't solve all the body roll, as that leads to my next issue; Swaybar

1. What is a good swaybar set to purchase and what's too much (name is not important, just performance)
2. Since I want a stiffer ride for everyday cruising/ occasional spirited driving, when is an wider diameter swaybar TOO wide from stock?
3. When upgrading swaybars, what contributes to swaybar mount failure? Is it improper width, or just fautly installation.


Thanks for those who can help! Just glad to have my bimmer back.

[Bill 84 318i]

The general argument is that sway bars should be added to tune the suspension, not reduce body roll. A lot of people feel that too big of a swaybar takes away the independence of the suspension too much and makes the car feel somewhat disconnected.

Anyway, your basic aftermarket sets are either 22/16 (Eibach, etc), 22/19 (ST), or 25/22 (IE's huge things). How big you wanna go depends on your personal preference.

It's not improper installation that causes mounts to fail, it's not using the right equipment. Reinforcements for the rear body mounts bolt through the trunk and will prevent you from either ripping the mount or your car itself. The trailing arm reinforcements must be welded on and they'll prevent you from ripping your trailing arm mounting tabs off. In the front there, are plates that use a subframe mounting bolt as a 2nd mounting bolt.