Replacing Shocks, Replace B.Stops and Mounts too?

[el bob]

I'm replacing the shocks in my 89 325i.

I'm currently planning on ordering..

Front

• 2x Bilstein HD Front Strut Inserts
• 2x Febi Front Strut Rubber Stops
• 2x Sachs Front Strut Mounts

Rear

• 2x Bilstein HD Rear Shock Absorbers

Is it normal to replace the front bump stops and strut mounts when replacing shocks? I don't see any obvious tears in the top of my strut mounts, but I don't know what the general guidelines are for replacing them. Here's a pic.

[HST]

If they have never been replaced then it might be time to. What you really need to do is replace the rear mounts! Replace them every time you replace the shocks unless you get some nice aftermarket mounts.

[Jean]

Yep, and might also be a good time to look at the sway bar bushings and end links as well and possibly control arms.

[el bob]

Thanks guys. As far as I know, all bushings on the car are original from 89. I replaced the upper rear shock mounts with Ireland Engineering billet mounts a year ago.

The sway bar bushings are all original and cracked. The control arms are original too. I couldn't really tell what kind of condition the control are bushings and ball joints were in, but one of the ball joint bushings was cracked. There wasn't any grease oozing out. Isn't there supposed to be chassis lube in the ball joints?

I'm trying to get the car ready suspension wise for a driving event next Wednesday night. It's an open drift practice session and I've never slid the car before. Three of the four shocks are leaking terribly and I'm pretty sure the passenger front has zero resistance.

I don't have a point of reference or any experience regarding how much of a difference replacing the control arms can make. Same thing for the sway bar bushings and end links.

The engine and trans mounts are IE urethane. The rear subframe and trailing arms bushings are IE urethane as well.

[E30_fiend]

Hey Robert, its Taylor we met at the meet in van nuys. Isn't your turbo car lowered? If so, you don't want the billstein HDs. They will blow out really quickly on a lowered car. You want billstein sports







Taylor

[el bob]

Hey Taylor, car's not lowered. Gotta keep the option of fitting the big slicks in the back if it goes to the 1/4 mile.

[E30_fiend]

Hey Taylor, car's not lowered. Gotta keep the option of fitting the big slicks in the back if it goes to the 1/4 mile.

Oh alright. That's a good setup then. And to your previous question about the upper strut mounts. Its definitely a good idea to replace them if you aren't sure they have been replaced before. And the bump stops I'm sure are torn apart by now so it really wouldn't hurt to replace those either. If you're looking for a better upper strut mount, get the ones designed for the E30 M3. They are set for a -3/4 degree of camber. If you don't want that, just stick to the stock ones they will do fine.







Taylor

[el bob]

Thanks guys. I ordered the parts listed in the first post except for the bump stops. The Bilstein's supposedly do not need external bump stops. I don't know, but I trust the guy who handled the order. We'll find out.

[Dana R]

Thanks guys. I ordered the parts listed in the first post except for the bump stops. The Bilstein's supposedly do not need external bump stops. I don't know, but I trust the guy who handled the order. We'll find out.

He is correct that the front Bilsteins have internal bump stops. You should reuse the small rubber rear bump stop.

[einstein57]

Hey Taylor, car's not lowered. Gotta keep the option of fitting the big slicks in the back if it goes to the 1/4 mile.

It only takes 10min to swap out both rear springs. Just unbolt the lower shock bolts and the sway bar endlinks and the rear springs damn near fall out. So don't let a once every blue moon drag event stop you from having a better handling car.