Who here runs GC/simliar camber plates and didn't cut their strut towers?

[91 318is]

I've just installed a set of GC camber plates and noticed that their isnt much adjustment because of the factory strut tower, I've noticed that some people have cut the tops of the towers to gain more adjustment, who here hasn't and didn't have a problem?

I would rather not cut the top if I don't have to, but it's the case, then I'll probably get fixed plates and run stock style upper mount.

Thanks

[Hellabad]

Make sure your bolts are configured like this. This will get the nut that holds the strut to the car as close as possible to the edge of the sheetmetal.

[jlevie]

If using stock diameter springs/perches, the limit on negative camber will be when the upper spring hits the shock tower (around 3deg).

[91 318is]

Make sure your bolts are configured like this. This will get the nut that holds the strut to the car as close as possible to the edge of the sheetmetal.

I actually think I swapped the bolts out to look like that, thanks for the heads up

If using stock diameter springs/perches, the limit on negative camber will be when the upper spring hits the shock tower (around 3deg).

I'm running GC coilover conversion.

Any other input?

[Knockenwelle]

Mine ended up at the zero mark with -2 deg camber. (GC) I don't think I'll ever need 4.5 deg, but I ground out just the little round moon to clear the bearing housing at full travel. Only took about 1/4 inch. I did not clearance for caster adjustment at all. 8 degrees with M3 CABs is enough. DO NOT chop up the tower unless you plan to rebuild it to fit. Keep in mind that is where all load-bearing force acts through the car, and insufficient support or overenthusiastic clearancing will result in bent sheetmetal, destroyed towers, or broken camber plates.

[91 318is]

Mine ended up at the zero mark with -2 deg camber. (GC) I don't think I'll ever need 4.5 deg, but I ground out just the little round moon to clear the bearing housing at full travel. Only took about 1/4 inch. I did not clearance for caster adjustment at all. 8 degrees with M3 CABs is enough. DO NOT chop up the tower unless you plan to rebuild it to fit. Keep in mind that is where all load-bearing force acts through the car, and insufficient support or overenthusiastic clearancing will result in bent sheetmetal, destroyed towers, or broken camber plates.

thanks man, yea that's why I was asking about adjustment range if I didn't notch the strut tower, I didn't want to. If I had to get the adjustment i need, I'm just gonna ditch the plates and go to fixed plates. I guess I'll just set the car up and see what the alignment turns out like.

Thanks

[Knockenwelle]

Keep the plates. The extra support they provide the strut rods will make things feel tighter and stay put. You probably won't need the caster adjustment, which is good, cause that would require lots of removed sheetmetal. But clearancing for the camber adjustment is no big deal. Plus, you can set camber at zero to half a degree for the street, and go nuts at the track!

[91 318is]

thanks guys, yea I'm more worried about my camber then my caster. Well see what happens when it gets aligned.