Inside tire wear

[Yeee30]

erik325i is right... without a modded wrench its pretty much impossible to adjust and/or tighten a rear subframe weld-in kit. i know from working at a shop and dealing with customers that want that on there car...

[george graves]

Nice - thanks for going out of the way to snap a pic.

[erik325i]

What's the dealieo with the wrench, essay? Bent? Or thinned homie?

Here's the wrench I modified to do my last alignment. Without doing that, there is not enough movement to be able to tighten the nuts all the way.


I also have one of these guys, which sometimes helps at certain angles.

[E30Idea]

I ground mine down in a couple places to allow for more movement. If I remember, I'll take a picture of it tomorrow when I'm at work.

Erik

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[erik325i]

What's the dealieo with the wrench, essay? Bent? Or thinned homie?

I ground mine down in a couple places to allow for more movement. If I remember, I'll take a picture of it tomorrow when I'm at work.

Erik

[george graves]

What's the dealieo with the wrench, essay? Bent? Or thinned homie?

[erik325i]

^Will any guy that's been to alignment school be able to jump right in and set up the car with those eccentric bolts? Or do you need to take it to someone with experience with it? Or the right rig?

Those are kinda standard part's aren't they?

Any alignment shop should be able to do it, but I'd recommend using a shop that has experience doing this.
You need to explain to them that you have adjustables, or else they might not know to do it.
There are no special skills needed to do the alignment after the kit, but because of the very limited space, you will need to use a modified wrench to be able to tighten the nuts properly. If you provide the shop with a wrench that is already modified (or willing to be modified), it will make their job much easier.

I'd recommend having them mark all of the adjusters/nuts with a paint pen so you can visually check them in the future to make sure they did not move or loosen up. If the nuts are not tightened enough, they will loosen up, fall off, and cause extremely weird handling. ask me how I know...

[george graves]

thank you. This thread is getting printed and put on the wall-o-parts to order.

[E30Idea]

^Will any guy that's been to alignment school be able to jump right in and set up the car with those eccentric bolts? Or do you need to take it to someone with experience with it? Or the right rig?

Those are kinda standard part's aren't they?

they are stock E36 parts I believe. Simple weld in tabs, bolts and nuts. there is really nothig to it. took dashboardMonkey and I about 4 hours to get the subframe out, RTA off, tabs welded on and reinstalled. The alignment shop new exactly what I installed when I took it to them and explained and they had it done in 45 minutes.

My race the next weekend yeilded an easy 30% more traction because I have almost 40% more tire on the ground. I went from 4.6 degrees negative camber to my requested 2.0. Easy best bang for your bucks item to be added to the e30 to do list.

For what its worth you can get the Hardware online or forom BMW directly.

- Eccentric Bolts, Eccentric Washers and Lock Nuts through Pelican Parts:

You will need 4 of each if you are doing both camber and tow. Otherwise you will only need 2 of each.

BMW Part # - 33321095102 - Eccentric Bolt
BMW Part # - 33321092310 - Eccentric Flat Washer
BMW Part # - 33326760668 - Self-Locking Collar Nut

Here is the diagram from the parts off realoem

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&fg=30&hl=31


Honestly, I would just support Dungeon and buy there kit. Comes withing a few days and you get everything you need.
Here is there link on e30tech. This is where I ordered:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80410

[george graves]

^Will any guy that's been to alignment school be able to jump right in and set up the car with those eccentric bolts? Or do you need to take it to someone with experience with it? Or the right rig?

Those are kinda standard part's aren't they?

[E30Idea]

Get an adjustable kit fron dungeon motorsports. That is what I did and my car is matching 2 degrees front and rear camber and 0 tow all the way around.

[e34john]

You guys are right about the weight in the back, I just thought about it and the mental picture I had before was wrong.

Saw the urethane kit 50 bucks or so, not bad, maybe I'll get the rear camber kit too, gonna think about it.

[StereoInstaller1]

A new rubber bushing will do just as well as a poly bushing IMO, just not be as rough.

I will disagree here completely.

Rubber bushings are far less stiff than rubber...duh, right? The point of this is that the rubber deflects dynamically, as in under load, with an "angle" in that the camber or toe will be multiplied as the bushing goes through its travel, where the urethane, while still able to deform, will exhibit less distortion, thus retaining more of the original static measurement.

In other words: rubber still deforms more than urethane, even when it is new.

This is why they cause better tire wear: they hold the pivot point accurately and deflect far far less than rubber.

Of course, fresh rubber will be better than shitty old 200,000 mile rubber.

As far as NVH, I have well over 300,000 miles on cars with no rubber bushings at all, and I am a grumpy old bastard that needs a nice smooth ride. Yes, no doubt that rubber is a nicer ride, but the urethane feels so much smoother on "turn in", and as the corner progresses, just feels more "planted" and is thus worth the tiny little bit of asphalt you feel.

Up front, the improvement in braking even over the solid M3 control arm bushings makes urethane the only choice in my book.

And before any of you guys spout the old "have you felt how new rubber feels" remember, kids....I drove the piss out of these cars when the whole damn car was new!

My opinion is this: if your car is a daily driver on lowering springs, use urethane for control arms and trailing arms, but all rubber on everything else.

YMMV.
Luke

[Philo]

Echo. . . echo . . echo. :D

[erik325i]

Is this right? Well, if so I guess I'll do urethane after all.

A new stock rubber bushing will do the same thing. The point is that new bushings (of any material) are better than worn out stock bushings with 200k miles.

Maybe I don't have enough weight in the back. No tar or spare, I think I will keep the gastank full more often.

You have it backwards. More weight will cause the car to sit lower and get more negative camber.

Erik