Can wheels hubs be milled down?

[LJ851]

George, is there room for the backside of the spokes of the wheel to get closer to the caliper? That is usually a tight spot and thinning the hub will decrease that clearance by an equal amount.

[Jafxod]

Not that I have any experience with this. Put it does not seem like a good idea and there's most likely a reason you've never heard of this done.

There are lots of 5 Lug weaves out there, Im sure you will find something with an offset you like.

[E30SPDFRK]

Edit: wow 4 people posted before I could spit out my thoughts lol


The problem would be where the bolt holes are. There needs to be enough room between the bottom of the seat and the back pad so the bolts have something strong to bolt to. The minimum amount you could have is probably somewhere around 5mm, which most wheels are already at unfortunatly.



Try to explain with a pic



the distance from where it says "60* steel insert" to the wheel mounting face



Try spreading the milling in other places. For instance, mill the wheels 3mm, mill the rotors 3mm and the hub 2mm. That's only a small amount on each but would give you 8mm more.


But really the easiest and safest way is to get camber plates and run a few degrees more camber and get better handling at the same time.

[kalib0y]

I wouldn't shave any more than 3mm. After owning a wheel forging company, I have learned that you do not want any less than 9mm of wheel pad between your hub and lug nut/bolt. Most OEM wheels have about 12mm-15mm of pad just for reference

If you are in need of extended studs or bolts. Hit me up and ill take care of you.

[z31maniac]

Thanks....but....Do you know what a mill is? Regardless...I appreciate the post, but "Anything can be done with money and time" isn't a real answer. Thanks anyways.

(sorry if that offends you, but I get the feeling you are just taking a wild guess with no first hand knowledge to back it up - feel free to correct me )

As far as heating up the hub while milling it, you'll notice that all wheels are milled at some point to make the face of the hub smooth and true. It's a non-issume.
And regarding the wheel hub, it is in essence a spacer, or a stand off if you will from the mouthing face that it need to the face of the wheels spokes. It's just a cylinder shaped part. By making it smaller it would actually make it, shorter, and therefore stronger. That assume a lot about the design of the wheels - I don't have style 5's in front of me.

Sounds like you've already decided in your mind that it is good enough.

Give it a shot!

[8380 Labs]

in the years i've been around wheel/tire stuff, i've never heard of a set of wheels with enough meat that you could mill 10mm off the back pad.

people usually eek 3-5mm off max from what i've seen. there just isn't enough material there to remove any more safely.

[Philo]

I was just speaking in general terms. I have no first hand knowledge with milling down wheels (the 'large, high speed drill press' is the term I use for mill when i'm drunk). Sorry if my speculation wasn't what you are looking for.

I do think you were a bit critical and harsh considering I was just trying to throw out ideas. Next time if you want only people with empirical knowledge of the topic, state it in your post.

Anyhow, have you by chance measured how much can be taken off the hub mounting surface before the caliper hits the wheel?

Have you measured the depth of the bolt seats to the back of the surface? it would seem that all wheels should have the same spacing in this respect to allow for correct amount of threading in the hub. In this respect the lug bolt seat will be a set distance from the hub, which may be compromised by milling off material.

Have you measured how much positive offset you wish to gain?

[S&E30]

It can be done, it just depends on the wheel hub. Some are too thin and can't be ground down, while others are fatter and can have a few mm's shaved off. I think it also depends on the design of the wheel hub.

[Ant_e30]

I think that the above poster is basically saying what the general knowledge is, that a wheel has a certain amount of hub mounting face material generally for a reason and thus its strength and integrity is based on this amount of hub face. That said, the practice of milling down the hub is something that some people have had done, though it does depend on the wheel in question and what material it is made from etc. I know that taking off say 5mm or so has been done, the thought being that it is quite a minor change. But when you are talking 10mm, i do not know that is a good idea. Perhaps the wheel has a very large hub and thus it is no issue, but it is a bit of a risk to take so i think most people steer clear.

if you find out the material of the wheel etc and talk to a mahcine shop, there is no reason why they shouldnt be able to tell you if they feel it is do-able or not.

[george graves]

Thanks....but....Do you know what a mill is? Regardless...I appreciate the post, but "Anything can be done with money and time" isn't a real answer. Thanks anyways.

(sorry if that offends you, but I get the feeling you are just taking a wild guess with no first hand knowledge to back it up - feel free to correct me )

As far as heating up the hub while milling it, you'll notice that all wheels are milled at some point to make the face of the hub smooth and true. It's a non-issume.
And regarding the wheel hub, it is in essence a spacer, or a stand off if you will from the mouthing face that it need to the face of the wheels spokes. It's just a cylinder shaped part. By making it smaller it would actually make it, shorter, and therefore stronger. That assume a lot about the design of the wheels - I don't have style 5's in front of me.

[Philo]

It seems plausible, but I doubt you would want to take off too much depth, thus, not changing the offset enough. If you can mount the wheel to a lathe, it can do the cutting. Otherwise, you could use a large, high speed drill press to ground down the surface like a flywheel.

Problems with doing this to a wheel are:

1. taking too much off, making the hub prone to cracking
2. heating up the wheel hub, thus, making it prone to cracking
3. producing an uneven hub surface, making the wheel run out of round

Anything can be done, but I don't think the effort/cost will be worth it. Money/work would be much more well spent in re-working the fenders to accommodate the wheels. You could re-radius them, roll and pull, flare, or extend them. It would solve the aesthetic problem you are having. :)

[george graves]

So here's my what I want. This is my idea set up...this is what I'm after....e36 m3 suspention up front (with brakes) and style 5's wheels. I LOVE the e36m3 brakes on an e30. They are insane. And I LOVE style 5's. I want them both.

(and no one say e30m3 suspention - I know what it can be done with e30m3 stuff - I want to go with e36 m3 stuff)

Now, we already know that the wheels clear the brakes. The only problem is that the offset ends up being really low - the wheels is pushed out a bit to far. Exactly like this.







I'm not too sure I'd be really happy with that much poke.

So, this whole post is a long way around asking....can the hub of a wheel be milled down 10mm or so? Why do you never hear of people changing the offset of wheels like that? It seems like something super simple for a machine shop to do.