omg amazing!
							
						
					Mikey's BBS RS build
				
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Look at this:
	
	Alloy Wheel & tyre fitment calculator - it calculates inset, poke, speedo error, tyre stretch and loads more.
The inset should be the same number. At +8 it's far from that. Like I wrote earlier your final offset gonna be -18. I propose a test fit before tightening the 34 bolts cause I'm not sure 16x10 et-18 fit on an E30.E30S54 - Scale Suspension / Unix Performance Coilovers - 17x8 and 17x9 BBS E50Comment
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I'll deff do a test fit. Look at the Felgen guys, they are fitting the same setup in the rear, even wider, 11".Look at this:
	
	Alloy Wheel & tyre fitment calculator - it calculates inset, poke, speedo error, tyre stretch and loads more.
The inset should be the same number. At +8 it's far from that. Like I wrote earlier your final offset gonna be -18. I propose a test fit before tightening the 34 bolts cause I'm not sure 16x10 et-18 fit on an E30.
The RS's i started with had 1.5" lips.
Got the all 4 inner barrels stripped today. I'll post pics asap.
NEED 12pt 8mm sockeT!Comment
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E30S54 - Scale Suspension / Unix Performance Coilovers - 17x8 and 17x9 BBS E50Comment
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I don't understand how people just jump into stuff without knowing what they're doing. Like Jim said, the rear is going to poke like crazy. My 16x10 et16 stuck outside of the fender about 4mm; yours are going to stick out 38mm, or about 1.5". Not impossible, but not easy. You're going to need all the help Tony can give.
Wheels look great though lol.Byron
LeichtbauComment
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Yes, im "improvising" this entire build. ha.
I actually have "improvise" inked on my right arm! :)
I don't understand how people just jump into stuff without knowing what they're doing. Like Jim said, the rear is going to poke like crazy. My 16x10 et16 stuck outside of the fender about 4mm; yours are going to stick out 38mm, or about 1.5". Not impossible, but not easy. You're going to need all the help Tony can give.
Wheels look great though lol.
If i was "scared of fitting wheels" I'd be running some 16x7.5's. Im building these wide and deep for a reason, thats how i want them.
Back on topic...
Finished painting the inner barrels today. pics up toight!Comment
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Inner barrels stripped and painted:

Aircraft remover doing its thing...

Had to apply 2-3 coats each side of the barrel. The first coat will remove the majority of the paint, second should do the rest. Lastly I hit the stubborn spots with dabs of it. I used a scraper, rags and several 3M scuff pads to remove the bubbled paint. after 2 barrels i had the technique down quite well.

First 2 done.


Close up.

4.5 hours later... All 4 barrels DONE.
Once i was done there was a light film on the barrels from the aircraft remover, so i coated them with simple green then hit them with a pressure washer. After that, dried them up and it was onto paint.
It was difficult to find a legit color for the barrels but in the end i shose some rattle can rusto, the color code is 7715 ALUMINUM. Bought 5 cans, used 2, that gave me 6 coats on the inner of the barrel.

First coat of paint. At first it looked way too shiny.. but after it was all dried and cured, the finish dulled down and it looks great. Heres some more progress pics taken while painting, excuse the brightness of the finish.

Heres all 4 barrels close up, HUGE difference from the before pics...
BEFORE:




AFTER:




Wheels are ready to bolt up and seal. Waiting on my 12pt 8mm socket from amazon, once that arrives I'll do a test fit and get the fenders rolled. Stay tuned for pics of the bolted up wheels and test fit.Comment
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WatchingYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=215557Comment
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Is the backside of the center powdercoated where the face of the rotor meets the face of the of the wheel? If so, you should take a orbital sander, and sand off that powdercoat. It should be a metal to metal contact at that union since it is the load bearing surface.Comment
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nice work on these wheels, though i fear like some others you may hit strife in the rear. That said, if you want big lip, do big lip. This is the Japanese VIP way, make the car fit the wheels.
if you end up too wide but dont want to do widebody or overfenders, your next option is to buy narrower barrels for the wheels. This will let you keep your 4" lip but gain you some inner clearance and lower your offset and width. Sure you won't have 10" wide rims but you'll have like 4" dish on a 9.5" wheel or so hahaComment
 


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