Remove studs from Adaptec adapters

[Vivek]

Well I'm 95% likely going to need to get my adapters machined down a little bit (offset right now is at -2, 7.5" wheel, 205/45/17). But I can't machine the back, and the front has studs sticking out. Do they just slide out after a few taps with a mallet? I'm pretty sure they're adaptec's, and any help would be appreciated. The fronts may be fine, but the rears will most likely need to be machined to fit. And here's a couple pics:

[ak-]

Machine out your fenders instead

[jaywood]

Machine out your fenders instead

[Vivek]

Machine out your fenders instead

I'll be doing some of that too, but the rear may be a bitch with the double wall, and the PO i believe ran 195's not 205's. I'm sure the studs come out some way...right?

[325ix]

How bad are you rubbing? You are only 5mm lower offset than me and I run a 9in. with a 215. It only needs a roll.

[lambo]

How bad are you rubbing? You are only lower offset than me and I run a with a 215. It only needs a roll.

It's probs the tire height that's causing the problems. Still, I feel like good fender work would be better than trying to machine your adapters...

[AndrewBird]

To answer your original question, yes, the studs will just press out. Get a piece of tubing or a deep well socket and set the spacer on top with the back of the stud centered over the tube/socket. Thread a nut partway onto the stud to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer. Stud should come out. A press works as well if you have access to one.

[Vivek]

To answer your original question, yes, the studs will just press out. Get a piece of tubing or a deep well socket and set the spacer on top with the back of the stud centered over the tube/socket. Thread a nut partway onto the stud to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer. Stud should come out. A press works as well if you have access to one.

Thank you.

To everyone else: this is just a precaution in the case that I need to machine them. Hopefully they'll fit with minor fender work (they're already slightly rolled and pulled), I'm just scared about the double wall in the rear and potentially damaging the paint/body. You need to basically work the inside with a head gun and a bodyworking hammer and there's much more room for error there than having someone shave off 5mm so it will clear.

[Vivek]

It's probs the tire height that's causing the problems. Still, I feel like good fender work would be better than trying to machine your adapters...

What's this calculator? My old setup in the rear was 215.40.16 on a 16x9 et10. For all I know that may stick out much more and I'll have no issues.

Edit: found the calculator. New setup will poke less than the old, but there's less stretch and more tire height, so it could be harder to fit. I'll have to see.

[LJ851]

The more important question is how thick the adapters are. "Safe" adapters are only made down to 18-20 mm for a reason. If you are planning on thinning the thinnest adaptec adapter you may want to rethink the road you are choosing to go down.

You strike me as someone who genuinely cares that his wheels stay attached.

[Vivek]

The more important question is how thick the adapters are. "Safe" adapters are only made down to 18-20 mm for a reason. If you are planning on thinning the thinnest adaptec adapter you may want to rethink the road you are choosing to go down.

You strike me as someone who genuinely cares that his wheels stay attached.

They're 32mm, and the most I may shave them down to is probably around 25.

[ZekeTheSneak]

What tires? Falken 512s run super narrow. A 205 falken isnt the same as a 205 (tire)

[Vivek]

Yep but I'm putting falkens on the front and Pirelli's on the back. The falkens are noticeably narrower, but I'm only really worried about the back. It's easy to have someone pull the front for me.

[MR 325]

Why not get wheels that don't need adapters? lol