Thought I would cross post this from BimmerForums.
Just installed a Mishimoto E36 radiator in my touring, thought I would show the process.
First off, here is the parts list:
Radiator - $228.57 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Overflow Bottle - $69.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radiator Cap - $5.73 - http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10229-Ra...ds=Stant+10229
1/4 NPT Plug - $8.36 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAS6WY/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
1/8" NPT Nipple - $5.11 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUQLG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
1/2" NPT 90ยบ Elbow - $7.10 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/4 "- 1/2" NPT Face Bushing - $4.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/4" x 1" Barb Fitting - $13.25 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1ft. 3/8" ID Heater Hose
(4) Clamps to fit 3/8" Hose
~6" of 3/8" OD copper tubing
3.25" dia hose clamp to hold bottle to bracket
Upper radiator hose - More on that below
2.5" x 3" piece of aluminum sheet
(3) self tapping sheet metal screws
Total price - $343.11 + ~$20 for above misc
Here is what the bottle looks like with all the fittings installed. Picture should explain everything. I used the 1/8" nipple instead of a barbed fitting because the radiator nipple is 3/8" diameter and I couldn't find a brass fitting with a 1/8" NPT on one end and a 3/8" barb on the other. I also tapped the holes in the bottle quite a bit deeper so that none of the threads on the fittings show. Stock there was about 1/4" of threads still showing at each joint. Be sure to use teflon tape on all the threads.
I trimmed the plastic shroud a bit and made an aluminum plate that screws to the core support. The bracket that comes with the bottle then screws to this. I used self tapping screws on all of this, but I suggest pre-drilling holes first for better accuracy.
Bottom stock hose plugs right in. It does have to be pulled up out of the zip ties on the frame rail though. The bottom isn't as long as stock, so the fitting isn't down as far. You could use different fittings to extend it, but I decided to just leave it.
For the overflow hose off the radiator, I filled a piece of copper tubing with sand and bent it around a big socket. This worked ok, but did colapse the tubing a bit still. I ended up hammer the back side flat, pushing the sides out, so that it was less pinched. Not sure if I like how this turned out overall though. Too many clamps, just looks messy. I'll figure out something else soon.
Stock upper gasket needed a slight trimming, but fit right on.
I did have to change the upper hose to a different one. I just found on at the auto parts store that was the same shape as stock, but longer, and cut it to fit. I've read that others used the E36 hose, but I don't know if it works for sure or not. The stock hose is only about 3/4" too short on the engine side.
Here you can see the stock temp sensor screws right in.
There is no place to put the stock level sender, so I just jumpered the plug with a piece of wire and taped it up. If you wanted to get creative, you could make a bung that would fit the stock sensor and weld it to the bottom of the tank. Then you would also need to make a another bung for the bottom hose fitting and weld it to the bottom side of the bottle. This would also eliminate all but the barbed fitting on the bottom for a cleaner look. I thought about doing this and may someday, but it works well as is and the lower warning is more annoying than useful.
I also ordered the proper bottom mounts to span the gap since this radiator is narrower than stock, but they haven't showed up yet. Once they do, I'll take more pictures and post part numbers.
Just installed a Mishimoto E36 radiator in my touring, thought I would show the process.
First off, here is the parts list:
Radiator - $228.57 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Overflow Bottle - $69.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radiator Cap - $5.73 - http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10229-Ra...ds=Stant+10229
1/4 NPT Plug - $8.36 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAS6WY/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
1/8" NPT Nipple - $5.11 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUQLG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
1/2" NPT 90ยบ Elbow - $7.10 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/4 "- 1/2" NPT Face Bushing - $4.99 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/4" x 1" Barb Fitting - $13.25 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1ft. 3/8" ID Heater Hose
(4) Clamps to fit 3/8" Hose
~6" of 3/8" OD copper tubing
3.25" dia hose clamp to hold bottle to bracket
Upper radiator hose - More on that below
2.5" x 3" piece of aluminum sheet
(3) self tapping sheet metal screws
Total price - $343.11 + ~$20 for above misc
Here is what the bottle looks like with all the fittings installed. Picture should explain everything. I used the 1/8" nipple instead of a barbed fitting because the radiator nipple is 3/8" diameter and I couldn't find a brass fitting with a 1/8" NPT on one end and a 3/8" barb on the other. I also tapped the holes in the bottle quite a bit deeper so that none of the threads on the fittings show. Stock there was about 1/4" of threads still showing at each joint. Be sure to use teflon tape on all the threads.
I trimmed the plastic shroud a bit and made an aluminum plate that screws to the core support. The bracket that comes with the bottle then screws to this. I used self tapping screws on all of this, but I suggest pre-drilling holes first for better accuracy.
Bottom stock hose plugs right in. It does have to be pulled up out of the zip ties on the frame rail though. The bottom isn't as long as stock, so the fitting isn't down as far. You could use different fittings to extend it, but I decided to just leave it.
For the overflow hose off the radiator, I filled a piece of copper tubing with sand and bent it around a big socket. This worked ok, but did colapse the tubing a bit still. I ended up hammer the back side flat, pushing the sides out, so that it was less pinched. Not sure if I like how this turned out overall though. Too many clamps, just looks messy. I'll figure out something else soon.
Stock upper gasket needed a slight trimming, but fit right on.
I did have to change the upper hose to a different one. I just found on at the auto parts store that was the same shape as stock, but longer, and cut it to fit. I've read that others used the E36 hose, but I don't know if it works for sure or not. The stock hose is only about 3/4" too short on the engine side.
Here you can see the stock temp sensor screws right in.
There is no place to put the stock level sender, so I just jumpered the plug with a piece of wire and taped it up. If you wanted to get creative, you could make a bung that would fit the stock sensor and weld it to the bottom of the tank. Then you would also need to make a another bung for the bottom hose fitting and weld it to the bottom side of the bottle. This would also eliminate all but the barbed fitting on the bottom for a cleaner look. I thought about doing this and may someday, but it works well as is and the lower warning is more annoying than useful.
I also ordered the proper bottom mounts to span the gap since this radiator is narrower than stock, but they haven't showed up yet. Once they do, I'll take more pictures and post part numbers.
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