E34 540i valley pan gasket

[Gaode]

What's up.
I've been doing some maintenance on a recently purchased 540i, and I got down under the intake to the valley pan. After taking it out and cleaning it and then wanting to re install it, I came to find that a gasket for this is not sold separate from the valley pan? Even after looking online and doing a little research i found out that the only way to get the gasket is to buy a whole new valley pan with the gasket attached to it, which is a little pricey. However...
I found a place that DOES sell the gasket separately! ($17.81) much better than 70-90 for the whole thing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E34-540i-M60_4.0L/ES19366/

I just got it in the mail and will be putting it on soon. I will repost later and give some feedback about it.
Has anyone else ran into this issue or had experience with this?
Discuss

[Gaode]

[straight6pwr]

i was unaware you could just get the gasket. i did research on this a few months ago because i need to do this job as well, and even then it was only the whole pan or nothing.

was it the correct piece? were you successful cleaning up the old pan to prepare for the gasket? also, i see you removed the coolant crossover pipe instead of the water pump, how hard were those bolts to remove/install?

[TimeMachinE30]

I've seen the valley pan rarely is an issue. The gasket is the part needing service.

Good write up on the e38.org site.

[marshallnoise]

That's not a good gasket for this job. Well I don't know that for sure. But the new and improved valley pan comes with a rubberized gasket. In it's place, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker with success (the second time) on my original valley pan.

straight6pwr, the coolant manifold, which is what the OP removed, is easy to remove. If you do the water pump, there is more crap in the way, but it's all right in front of you. Six in one, half dozen in the other.

[Gaode]

That's not a good gasket for this job. Well I don't know that for sure. But the new and improved valley pan comes with a rubberized gasket. In it's place, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker with success (the second time) on my original valley pan.

straight6pwr, the coolant manifold, which is what the OP removed, is easy to remove. If you do the water pump, there is more crap in the way, but it's all right in front of you. Six in one, half dozen in the other.

Ya I already tried doing it with a gasket maker the first time and its leaking already so this is take 2.. What's the new improved valley pan with a rubber gasket? How can u tell if you're getting the improved one?

[Gaode]

I haven't started the job yet, so I'd like to get as much info before I do it, so I don't have to do it a third time lol..

[straight6pwr]

the gasket from ECS tuning looks like a part that wont work. see post #30 here

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2043323-PERFECTING-the-M60-%28belt-drive-amp-cooling-system%29&p=26956796#post26956796

[Gaode]

Well that's sucks. Glad I know before I started and then got all frustrated.
So what do u guys think is the best solution for the valley pan?

[marshallnoise]

I know you said you used RTV of some variety, but I promise you, "The Right Stuff" is the gasket maker of choice for this very project. That's what I used. I too had to do it twice, but my first failure was not from the gasket maker; it was from my inability to properly torque the valley pan bolts. The second time I used "The Right Stuff" and just snugged all the bolts by hand, it's been nice and tight.

[Gaode]

I know you said you used RTV of some variety, but I promise you, "The Right Stuff" is the gasket maker of choice for this very project. That's what I used. I too had to do it twice, but my first failure was not from the gasket maker; it was from my inability to properly torque the valley pan bolts. The second time I used "The Right Stuff" and just snugged all the bolts by hand, it's been nice and tight.

Ok I'll try that out then. Did u torque them to spec 7 ft. lbs or just hand tight?

[marshallnoise]

Ok I'll try that out then. Did u torque them to spec 7 ft. lbs or just hand tight?

I'd say more like 20 ft. lbs but hand tight. It's aluminum so be careful, but they gotta be secure. And you have to go back over them until they feel even. As you tighten all over the place, the whole thing cinches down.

[Gaode]

I'd say more like 20 ft. lbs but hand tight. It's aluminum so be careful, but they gotta be secure. And you have to go back over them until they feel even. As you tighten all over the place, the whole thing cinches down.

Ok I'll do a little tighter. That's just torque specs I found online. Hope it all goes well!

Going to get this

[DIIRTY-30]

When I did mine, they sent me the whole unit with the rubber feet. I opt'd and made sure it was strictly OEM after seeing the Reinz version and etc.

Went ahead and torqued it all down to 10lbs, two of the studs were originally seized/sheared off. Did two time serts, forgot the exact length (11 or 13mm i think?). I wouldn't overtorque it though since it is aluminum and once it expands and contracts with metal bolts... yeah no bueno.

On a side note, I think the PO to my motor may not have taken care of his ground straps which lead to slight electrolysis. That's just my hunch though, so take it as a grain of salt.

[Gertech]

I don't have personal experience using that paper gasket, but every time I've done this job I've used a new BMW valley pan with the rubber gasket stuck to it. I don't think I'd dick around with gasket sealer...in my experience it never works well, at least not long term. If you don't want to do the job again, get the BMW valley pan. My .02