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Regular oil and full synthetic oil

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    #1

    Regular oil and full synthetic oil

    I know my engine has a lot of miles on it... but that doesnt give it any more reason to start weeping now!

    Ive used regular oil as much as i could possibly find it and gave up the fight and settled on synthetic high mileage stuff a couple years ago.
    Is it actually possible that the myth of synth's cleaning out the fossil residues isnt actually a myth?



    ive had to change seals, rebuilt the cooler/filter junction, tighten pan bolts and replaced rocker cover gasket. it appears there's some mingling of oil and water going on too, as well as the weeping head gasket (we are talking very minimal here.) Would replacing head bolts be wise at this point or should I just say screw it and wait for the new engine to come later next year?
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    #2
    wait you cant find regular oil? everywhere that carries anything automotive around here has regular oil.
    m106 1990 e30
    e36 daily
    e32 cruiser

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      #3
      Nothing different about synthetic base oil from mineral except that the molecules are more uniform (therefore more stable) and the junk that has to be refined out was never there.

      The thing about causing leaks came from way back in the 70s when engine seals were made out of different stuff (like rubber impregnated rope) that needed the junk in the oil to keep them soft (and also eat them away). They added esters to synthetic.. problem solved.

      EDIT: One thing is though a lot of modifiers are not put in any oils anymore (like zinc) because of emissions that lack can eff up a lot of stuff in the older engines that rely on it.
      I'm Not Right in the Head | Random Rants and other Nonsense1st Order Logic Failure: Association fallacy, this type of fallacy can be expressed as (∃x ∈ S : φ(x)) → (∀x ∈ S : φ(x)), meaning "if there exists any x in the set S so that a property φ is true for x, then for all x in S the property φ must be true".

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        #4
        Originally posted by xLibelle View Post
        just say screw it and wait for the new engine to come later next year?

        milk it for as long as you can. but it sounds like its really on its way out.

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          #5
          I dont see the engine dieing any time soon. Changed the timing belt recently, to my surprise the old one was loose (stretched?). New water pump. Checked the rockers and they were all dead nuts. Looking at the cam lobes tho, it has some hairline scars at the peak so it has either run too hot or starved for oil at some point. The marks are found on almost every engine with more than 150k miles and ive seen a LOT worse.
          For 220,000 miles, it runs extremely well. But the next engine would simply be a freshened stock m20 bin-balanced, 40-over, fresh cam, and some extras for Street Prepared legal and purism purposes. So I'd like to keep this one running for much longer, maybe even for the purpose to see how much of a beating it can take on extended life.

          Wouldnt new head bolts hold the head down tighter? I wouldnt dare re-torque these and assume they have allowed some space to grow around the head gasket. When and why do I hear people replace head bolts?

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