I wouldn't. If an ix is only $1500, you are going to have things that need doing. Also, more rare and expensive parts to break on that car. I would definitely advocate a cheap, simple beater (think tercel or something), and get the e30 someplace you can work on it yourself... the cheapest option and most rewarding in ways that won't be apparent until after you've finished. Even with the cost of tools and storage, you could come out okay. If that has no appeal, either spend the full budget on a 24v swap (although I wouldn't, it seems to have appeal), or calm down and find another way to get around for a few weeks.
Ask R3V for help - there are decent used heads out there. For that matter, buy a whole running engine for $500 and put that one in, ask for your m20 back, and rebuild it. Or not. Just don't spend $3500+ to go nowhere. And I would rather have a 200k running engine that has been maintained (and probably partially rebuilt) than pay through the nose for a 67k mile motor. Doing that few miles in 17+ years isn't necessarily a good thing, if you are looking for a motor to drop in and go. just my two cents
-
-
Yeah, I'm with Jean. Just suck it up and pay $1250 + $300 for a used head and chalk it up to a learning experience. That is, find a used head for $300 somewhere, get it installed by the shop that has your car, and call it a day. $1550 ain't bad for all that work, and beats the hell out of stressing out over swap parts / compatibility / no-starts / etc.Leave a comment:
-
just found this on craigslist about 10mins from me: 1990 325iX 5spd 2dr w/ 100k on remanufactured m20:
and this a little farther: rust-free 85e shell with 87i motor w/ 70k + some mods:
Last edited by SynSyx; 05-27-2009, 07:44 AM.Leave a comment:
-
I agree with this, hold off and get a used known good engine for a boatload less.
Ive been shipping for a cheap beater truck, you can pickup a good running s10/ranger/minipickup for about $1000 bucks in the NE. PArts are cheap and they will usually pass inspection easily.
the quoted price on that motor is nuts. dont get hosedLeave a comment:
-
Since time is a factor here I say pick up another car (e30, e36, VW, ect) and put the e30 on hold.Leave a comment:
-
For $3650 I could get another e30 that wasnt even a beater. My tools/space/ability factor are all limited. I start full-time work in about 3 weeks and I need a car thats gonna get me there and back 5 days a week. Next summer, once I'm done with school, I'll have a lot better chance of tackling this myself, if I decide to forget about the car until then
The cheapest head I've been able to find is the one on the Metrix Motorsports website for $630
A 24v swap is not out of the question. If I'm spending the $3650 anyway, I'd definitely rather end up with a nicer motor hahaLeave a comment:
-
you can buy a pretty nice e30 for $3650. i'm pretty sure you could do a 24v swap for significantly less than that, also. shops around here in portland quote 17 hours for a 24v swap, which amounts to about $1700 labor or a tad less, and can't one procure a 24v motor and all the other necessary things for way less than $1950?Leave a comment:
-
You are getting owned... buy a good used head for $300 and call it good. 3k on stock/used m20 is insane.Leave a comment:
-
For $3650 I'd buy a beater and work on the e30 myself in spare time. I don't know what your tools/space/ability factor is though.Leave a comment:
-
Need some advice regarding engine replacement
Before I start, this car is my daily driver, and has 180k on the odo.
Last week I brought my car in to get a few leaks checked out, and the news has gone from bad to worse to worst:
At first they told me all I needed was a new cylinder head gasket, and intake manifold gasket, as both were leaking. So I said okay, do what you gotta do, in fact, while everything is taken apart, do the timing belt and water pump too, for peace of mind. For this they quote me $1250, and even agree to paint my valve cover and intake manifold black. Not too bad so far
Well, they take the cylinder head off and send it to a machine shop to make sure it is level, etc. (Note: this is a remanufactured head, installed by another shop about 4 years & 35k miles ago) they see that 2 of my valves have small chunks broken off, which they tell me is a preignition issue. Great. After a closer look, the cylinder head has little cracks developing all over due to getting too hot. Fantastic.
So they quote me $1000 for a new head. Now we're up to $2250. This is where he tells me he can get me a 67k original miles m20 for $3650. This figure includes the cost of the motor, all labor, new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, paint, and a 1 year parts & labor warranty.
Now, I am a college student, so I'm on a budget, but I can afford both of these options, but not much more. If money were no object I'd throw in an s5x and be done with it. This car is my daily driver, so there is no chance of me parting it out.
So I need some advice, do I keep my bottom end and go with a new cylinder head, etc for $2250. There is no guarantee as to how the bottom end will hold up
Used 67k original miles m20 installed for $3650 with 1 year warranty
Find a motor on my own
Look for another car, and keep this on the back burner until I'm ready and more financially able of dealing with it
Thanks guys, I'm really at a loss here
Leave a comment: