Bushing Help

[TooTall90]

i need to replace #3 (bushing) shown on this diagram. i've removed #4, #5, #6, and #7. shouldnt the bushing #3 come out after that? i've given it a few bangs with a hammer and also tried to pry it out with a flathead and crowbar. that shit wont budge. am i missing something? any help is greatly appreciated.

p.s. the middle of the bushing is not treaded for the bolt that goes through it or atleast the new ones i bought dont have tread, so i dont think i should have to loosen the bolt.


PLEASE HELP.

[FredK]

HAHAHA no, it will not drop out just by removing 4,5,6 and 7.

Remove the rear seat. Pound #2 upwards with a sledgehammer. These are knurled bolts. Once they come free, they will come out inside the car.

Thread a lag bolt into the bottom of the bushing, get back inside the cabin of the car, and use a 3/8", foot long ratchet extension down the hole the subframe pins came out of, and pound the hell out of the bushing from up top. Make sure you are hitting the bolt and not the lip where the knurled bolt sits.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=955671&postcount=87

[Hallen]

The best way to do it? Drop the entire subframe with the diff attached. The weight will generally allow the bushing to slide off the bolts. Then use a press to push the bushings out of the subframe.

A few pics and such on pulling the subframe.

http://griplimit.net/index.php?blog=5&p=48&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1

[Chachi]

the end all be all is go to walmart and buy a propane torch and burn them out (be careful of gas tank, a piece of sheet metal in between helps). just remember when one side slips down the inner metal sleeve of the bushing may still be fused to the stud. heat the fuck out of it and hit it with a hammer from alternating sides and it'll break free.

now when one side is free and the other is still fused DO NOT drop the subframe down. this will cause the top metal ring to break off in the notch in the bottom of the car. freeing your subframe but leaving aluminum in the notch you have to dremel out. this has happened twice to me on two different cars.

dont forget to put antiseize on the stud shaft and up in that notch when you put it back together. it can be a hell of a job, but if everything goes right and the stars are aligned, it can be done with a little headache. just be prepared to devote time and if its a daily driver, have another car lined up you can use if it ends up taking too long.

[Miasma]

Thank god I live in Texas, Those shits just came apart fairly easily, Still had to do some banging but no torch.

[TooTall90]

well i did what FredK suggested, i didnt have the tools or time to do what you other guys suggested. it didnt work. i banged the bolt from the bottom but it did not budge at all. i tried hammering the bottom part of the bushing that sticks out the but that didnt budge at all either. i didnt even get a chance to thread the lag bolt. any other suggestions guys?

also the middle aluminum part of the bushing is seperated from the out shell of the bushing from what i can tell. when i lift the subframe the bolt starts to come out more and more.

....fucking bushings

[FredK]

also the middle aluminum part of the bushing is seperated from the out shell of the bushing from what i can tell. when i lift the subframe the bolt starts to come out more and more.

Sometimes it breaks off the center rubber, but the rest of the bushing should move in relation to the center aluminum part.

Pounding the pins back into the cabin ain't gonna do squat. You must finish the job by threading the 5/8" lag screw into the bottom of the bushing, and pounding the hell out of the bushing from inside the cabin.

[Jean]

Personally I left those long bolts (#2) alone and dropped the subframe. The bolts don't have to come out unless they are rusted or stuck to the bushings etc.

Once you drop your subframe you can easily replace both bushings AND the trailing arm bushings as well, 99% of the time ALL are way overdue for replacement.

[Intro]

Personally I left those long bolts (#2) alone and dropped the subframe. The bolts don't have to come out unless they are rusted or stuck to the bushings etc.

Once you drop your subframe you can easily replace both bushings AND the trailing arm bushings as well, 99% of the time ALL are way overdue for replacement.

Same here, my subframe came down with only a "little persuasion".
Just checking that you also removed the bolts that connect the subframe to the bottom of the car.. Above the diff

Once you have the subframe down, you can either buy the special tool, take it to someone with the special tool, or burn them out.

I burned them out and would recommend against this , big smelly, sticky mess.

[FredK]

His car is probably not from California. So, those bushing tops are going to be STUCK from driving on salted roads in the winter.