Vert quirks....

[RobE30]

My brother has me on the lookout for an e30 vert for him. I found 2 local for around 2k, but before I go and look @ them, I just want to know if there are any vert only issues? The nicer of the 2 has a small split in the rear window (haven't seen it yet), how labor intensive is that to R&R and approx price (for parts)? Thanks for any input guys!

[Miasma]

If it is a zip in rear window it is easy, If not then I hear it is better to just do the whole top as 90% of the time a new glue in rear will leak. Do a search you will find plenty of threads explaining all the vert specific stuff, Also look for a manual top car.

You can get a rear window "kit" here.

http://www.emiata.com/E30Window.asp

[RobE30]

I found e30ic.com and that seems pretty helpful. What my main concern was is there any vert specific areas of rust that I might not see w/out knowing where to look? I don't mind a little fender lip rust I just do not want to deal w/ structural rot.

[Cobra Jet]

Rob,

Most E30's, regardless if vert, sedan or coupe have pretty much the same problematic areas for any type of rust (surface and/or worse).

Check the following areas for rust on a vert:

rear tail light panel inside of trunk (mainly will leak if taillight seals are bad)

open tool kit - if there is rust on any of the tools, the trunk mounted brake light is leaking water during rain or wash

look in both rear trunk wells - again if 3rd mount trunk light, taillight seals or trunk seals are leaking water, water will accumulate in one or both wells. If left as standing water for periods of time, those areas can rust
pop the vert lid and look in there for any signs of standing water, water stains and/or rusting

w/ vert lid popped, look down the rear 1/4 cavities w/ a flashlight for any possible rusting

floor pans - most likely you won't be able to pull the carpet, however, if you can get under the car, take a good look at the front and rear floor pans, especially along the rockers and frame rails. Another sign of any interior water leaks would be a wet or damp carpet (especially if the vehicle is stored outdoors w/ all the rain we have been getting). Check the carpet along the interior rockers, at the base of the rear seat and also at each most forward corners near the front kick panels.

Usually vert leaks will occur at:

1) front top of A-pillars where the top meets/seals at the corners of the door corner windows & A-pillar

2) both L & R top seals along both L & R door and rear 1/4 window

3) rear window (obvious if window is damaged)

4) along the top edge of the windshield, where top meets roofline

5) where the front door and rear 1/4 windows meet at what would be the B-pillar seal

6) above both L & R top latches (above sun visors) - sometimes water can leak though each depending on how poor or old the top seal is in that area

Check for ANY type of interior mold or mildew... this will appear as a white, brown or gray "fuzz" and can look like staining on underside of top, on interior panels, on seats or even on the carpet. Don't get all hyped if you do see some, as it can be easily cleaned off w/ Simple Green and/or using a steam/upholstery cleaner. If you do find anything as such, be aware that it could mean there are breaches w/ the top and somehow somewhere moisture is penetrating the interior.

Look under front seats and rear seat cushion (if owner will allow you to pop bottom rear seat cushion) for any browning, graying, whiting or "growth" of mold or mildew.

Anytime you go looking at an older vehicle, especially a convertible, take along a small screw driver. Poke along the underside of the rockers, floor pans, frame rails and trunk flooring for any soft metal. It's quite obvious when you hit a soft spot... :)

Good luck in your search!

(oh yea, a convertible top replacement on an E30, if being performed at a reputable upholstery shop can run upwards of close to $1k on the high end - for an exact replacement top as the original)

[3bvert]

cobra jet has lots of good tips, as a vert woner I agree with what and where he points out issues. tops can be expensive and a manual top is far less headaches when they go bad. a manual top is very little effort to work
however a owner might not be happy with the screw driver approach for checking rust. if you know the problem areas as pointed out, you can often tell if its bondo by the sound, or a weak magnet such as th eold stud finders that pivot like a compass. a strong magnet will "read" other surrounding metal and through bondo

[RobE30]

I've done both the screwdriver (small pick works great and nobody gets pissy) and the magnet wrapped in a bedsheet (small piece). Most of my rust experience lies in old vws and I know the cabrios were really bad about rusting along the re-enforcement rails (near rockers) and I REALLY don't want to get into that w/ an e30 especially if it's not mine. Thanks for the info guys!

[namsayin]

find a hardtop for the vert and call it a day :)