GC Adjusters stuck on trailing arms!

[Farbin Kaiber]

I've seen some crazy chopped 4 cyl SBC engines in circle track cars. My cousin races a modified NAStruck with a 440 Hemi Ford bumping 860hp. I miss going to the redneck track.

[z31maniac]

Si.

What's more impressive is the two chopped up motorcycle engines, combined with a custom crank to make a small displacement, high revving 430hp V8.

[Farbin Kaiber]

^^ Ja see all that CF?

[z31maniac]

That's actually a good pic.

He is my favorite for tomorrow night (Micheal Pickens). He ran on Tuesday when we were there as well. Has some wild V8 that is only legal in the US for this race.

Came all the way from New Zealand. If he can get his setup nailed down and get through mid-corner well, he will be tough to beat. His car gets out of the corners insanely well with all the HP.

[FredK]

my dad called me and had scored a set of tickets to the Chili Bowl Nationals (no it's not a food thing) from a friend who couldn't make it.

I'll just leave this here:

[z31maniac]

I have a BFH in copper. works a treat. Couple of swift blows on the side of the upright then usually one on the balljoint and it pops right out.

Regarding OP's issue. Why not unscrew the adjuster nuts off, slide a piece of scrap steel tubing over the sleeves but shorter than them. Then reinstall the adjuster nut and lower it onto the scrap steel. Keep screwing the adjuster nut down and it should pop the sleeve off much like a bearing puller would.

That's a great idea.

I didn't get work on it last night, my dad called me and had scored a set of tickets to the Chili Bowl Nationals (no it's not a food thing) from a friend who couldn't make it.

I just went outside and soaked them down in PB Blaster.

[91 318is]

dont use a hammer, dont use a torch. They will break and it will weakin the aluminum.
Turn your adjuster down and tighten it up. Get a pry bar and start on one side and work it up little by little.
It will come off.

+1

[der affe]

dam, that is a pretty crafty idea!

[e30guydownunder]

Yeah, heavy suspension components and the like, one uses a brass face.

I have a BFH in copper. works a treat. Couple of swift blows on the side of the upright then usually one on the balljoint and it pops right out.

Regarding OP's issue. Why not unscrew the adjuster nuts off, slide a piece of scrap steel tubing over the sleeves but shorter than them. Then reinstall the adjuster nut and lower it onto the scrap steel. Keep screwing the adjuster nut down and it should pop the sleeve off much like a bearing puller would.

[Farbin Kaiber]

yeah, I've got a few - that's the problem really, they don't give you a really sharp blow like you need. you can beat on your control arm ball joints with a dead blow hammer all day and it won't pop free. but 2 sharp wacks with a 5lb metal hammer and it falls right out..

Yeah, heavy suspension components and the like, one uses a brass face.

[LivingLegend06]

I had the same problem and ended up just using a bearing puller. I had to put a small piece of scrap metal through the center hole of the threaded sleeve to brace against and then put the pullers jaws on the threaded collar.

[nando]

actually now that I remember, I put a flathead no the adjuster collar and tapped on it with a hammer to rotate it, then they came off no problem.

[White325is]

Dont use a hammer, dont use a torch. They will break and it will weakin the aluminum.
Turn your adjuster down and tighten it up. Get a pry bar and start on one side and work it up little by little.
It will come off.

[nando]

yeah, I've got a few - that's the problem really, they don't give you a really sharp blow like you need. you can beat on your control arm ball joints with a dead blow hammer all day and it won't pop free. but 2 sharp wacks with a 5lb metal hammer and it falls right out..

[Farbin Kaiber]

^ They are made of soft plastic and filled with lead shot. You can beat on a threaded stud and not damage it.