do i REEAALLYY need to bleed the brakes??

[87-325ic]

So i just bench bled my master, i doubt i got all the air out, and put it back onto the lines, left the fittings loose and pumped it some more, then tightened everything up. put on the res, and filled it and pumped the brakes a little more, a bunch of air bubbles came up.. then stopped.

the pedal feels pretty good. def not rock hard. but drivable..

Any chance the air bubbles might make there way out on their own? or should i just bleed the system?

i just dont like the idea of pushing those few air bubbles all the way to the wheels, and through the abs system.

Any ideas here?

ill probably not have a helper, and i dont have a pressure bleeder made yet (i only have the garden sprayer and no spare res cap to drill through).. so i guess ill be gravity bleeding.

whats my best option?

[gone002]

dude i made the garden sprayer deal and it rocks!!! i forgot the pn for the cap i used but its out there you can just order it from jc whitney. its like 5 bucks. i had to use jb weld to seal it and find a good oring...but boy does it make life a lot easier!

[87-325ic]

my problem is in finding a cap that fits. or i would have one made. the sprayer is in my back seat!

[blunttech]

Bleed them. Dont play around with that kind of stuff. Have someone sit in the car and do it the old fashioned way if you dont have a power bleeder. Takes longer to get the wheels off than to bleed and youll be glad you did

[87-325ic]

yeah. i plan to now. i started the car and pressed the pedal. way soft. im letting it sit overnight and i believe more bubbles will work their way up. ill either gravity bleed it tomorrow, or enlist a neighbor or call a friend.

pump, pump, hold, release bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal, pump, repeat right?

[Sepp]

Do all four wheels for the best results.

Start with the wheel that's furthest from the fluid res.
pass side rear
drivers side rear
pass side front
drivers side front.

open valve-push down pedal-tighten valve-release pedal.
Repeat till the fluid is clear, and no bubbles.

I run a small piece of clear flexible tubing that fits over the tit on the valves, and place the other end in a small container with some fresh fluid in it.
Makes it real easy to see the bubbles, and if the pedal is released too early, it'll suck in fluid to the caliper, versus just more air.

Dont forget to keep an eye on the fluid level in the res!!!!

[KenC]

After you bleed them the first time, go out and hit them hard enough to engage the abs... it'll pump the little air bubbles through for a proper bleed.

[Simon S]

run a small piece of clear flexible tubing that fits over the tit on the valves, and place the other end in a small container with some fresh fluid in it.

You'll need that tubing - if you do it the 'old fashioned' way.

My advice? Go to an auto parts store and pick up a $10 vacuum bleeder kit. Works great if you’re solo, and if you work on cars at all, you’ll find yourself using again..

Ken makes a good point about the abs unit.

Also - I always had a bear of time bleeding, until I started proactively wrapping threads of bleeder screws with thread tape.

[87-325ic]

open valve-push down pedal-tighten valve-release pedal.



Dont forget to keep an eye on the fluid level in the res!!!!

open valve first... you sure?


thats why my clutch wouldnt work the first time i bled.

[Alpina]

Bleed them. Dont play around with that kind of stuff. Have someone sit in the car and do it the old fashioned way if you dont have a power bleeder. Takes longer to get the wheels off than to bleed and youll be glad you did

Bingo,,

this is the REAL good way to do it,,

ps,, also bleed the clutch, but it can be pain some time ,, even if the new fluid is getting through,, there can be air in the system,, just pump the clutch MANY times


the brake effort should be better when you have the new fluid through all lines

[mikeedler]

this thread is a joke right????
of course you need to bleed the system-- and no the air bubbles will not make thier way out alone.....

and as stated before- just the fact to have all new fluid in the lines to take out the water is reason alone to bleed out the system.( brake fluid is hydroscopic) it pulls water in from the air- which kills your brake system- rusts everything internally and lowers the boiling point of the fluid-- which equals crappy braking.

every 2 years brake fluid is changed through BMW!!!!!!

[DrMcDave]

buy the power bleeder. I never thought I'd use mine as much as I do. Done many more brake jobs because I own this thing.

[SamE30e]

Tube and a empty waterbottle has always worked best for me.

[87-325ic]

its new fluid in it now. i just did my brakes a month or two ago and now my MC went to shit.

its gravity bleeding now... until i can find a cap to fit for my diy pressure bleeder, or find a neighbor to pump my pedal.. im just worried thats what caused my cylinder to fail last time, pushing the pedal to the floor when the bleeder valve is opened.

[Sepp]

open valve first... you sure?


thats why my clutch wouldnt work the first time i bled.

Always has worked for me....but do whatever you feel is the best method.