Sound like a (bad) grounding issue?

[87e30]

Sorry, wasn't sure where to put this as it seems pretty generic.

24v swap. Temp gauge was working great, recently made a 24v thread about my gauge acting up, going all over the place.

Also, my car started stumbling/hesitating under 2500rpms after driving it for a prolonged period of time (over ~30 minutes).

Last night I drove out to a buddy's shop and the coolant/temp all checked out okay. (say 25 minute drive, mostly freeway). Turned around and came back home for the reverse 25 minutes, and spent ~15-20 minutes looking for street parking. During this time the car was hesitating and stumbling more than usual, growing in severity. Worried about over heating (paranoia) I parked (illegally) to check the coolant. All is good, but now the car won't start. So I compression started it (always makes you look cool on a college campus) and continued driving.

The car began stumbling dying really badly, eventually I had to keep it nearly floored to keep it on, the gauges, stereo, and headlights also begain to flickr, dim, then shut off. At this point I was hurrying to get anywhere I could, and my car was jolting so randomly I'd start burning out in 1st then barely keeping the car alive.

The car won't start this morning, but it gives a half-ass crank so I'm thinking it's just the batt. (Want to try jump starting it this morning, instead of comp. start)

Grounding issue perhaps? I checked engine ground this morning (I have one from motor arm to chassis) and it was a bit loose, so I've tightened. I also only have 2 grounds for the coil packs, where it looks like there should be 3 - but engine came out of a car like this)

Input? Sorry for length, want to give as much info as possible.

[xwill112x]

maybe a bad alternator. all sorts of things go crazy when they go out.

[mikeedler]

sounds like a charging problem.
does the batt. light in your cluster still work- it needs to to "close" the circuit so the alternator will charge.
if that light is still working, it is probably a grounding problem-- just make a nice thick wire---one from the alt. housing to the chassis- if that doesnt help- the alt has probably crapped out on you.

[Blacksedan]

This is similar to what happened when my alternator went out. They are cheap and easy to replace, and some parts stores will test your old one for you.

[joshe]

OPs issue sounds similar to an issue I'm dealing with. Will get the alt checked out now

[10Toes]

Sounds like a bad alternator. Mine ran like shit when my altenator failed but I did not notice any weird temp readings, maybe your fan did not have enough power to cool the engine.

[87e30]

Sounds like a bad alternator. Mine ran like shit when my altenator failed but I did not notice any weird temp readings, maybe your fan did not have enough power to cool the engine.

The gauge itself was(is) acting like it wasn't grounded. It bounces all over the place, sometimes peggging red usually undecided. I used an infrared thermometer and temps are fine on the tstat housing and system holds pressure. (~180 deg f)

Alright guys, I'll go ground the alt to chassis, and if that fails looks like I will be needing a new alternator.

Thanks everyone.

[Matt-B]

a car will run with battery disconnected. maybe alt or batt, free to get them checked...

[yberther]

i'm on my way.

[BeirBrennerE30]

how long has your car been running swapped? did you hook up the blue with in pin1 of C101 to the blue wire in x20 pin 1? If not youll have some weird electrical issues including the batt not charging. Or your alt shit the bed.

[87e30]

how long has your car been running swapped? did you hook up the blue with in pin1 of C101 to the blue wire in x20 pin 1? If not youll have some weird electrical issues including the batt not charging. Or your alt shit the bed.

I got a harness from GregSlow so I'm pretty sure the wiring is good. The battery has been holding a charge, but the car has only been driven/running a handful of (shortish) drives.

The batt ground was sorta loose on it's connection to the body, and the grounds in the car were sorta loose.

I tightened everything, compression started and ran the car for 15 minutes or so, and it did start right back up after that. So i've disconnected my battery, and hopefully it starts tomorrow morning.

I should probably get the alt tested though to make sure and I think I'll add another engine ground.

[Mossman]

If the battery is dead, but you pop start the car and it runs then the alternator is fine (or not totally dead), cuz it's running the damn car. Sounds like you cleared it up by finding several bad grounds, let us know if that took care of it I have the feeling you'll be fine now

[AndrewBird]

If your battery is dead, be sure to charge before driving. The extra load put on the alternator from a dead battery will kill it. Visa versa as well. A bad alternator will put a high load on the battery, drain it and potentially kill it.

[ecoviper9]

If your battery is dead, be sure to charge before driving. The extra load put on the alternator from a dead battery will kill it. Visa versa as well. A bad alternator will put a high load on the battery, drain it and potentially kill it.

I agree with him. I had an 85 Benz as a first car and the alternator and batt went out at the same time probably from the above statement but my brother drove it home and had to put it in neutral everytime he got to a stop light with the throtle floored. made it home replaced the batt and alternator and all was good. I would also check your wiring... these older models are notorious for having electrical items going out and draining the batt... therefore overworking your alternator.

[7pilot]

1, Charge battery.
2, Get digital volt meter
3, Test battery voltage.... you want 12.7v minimum.
4, Start car.
5, test volts at batt at idle...You want 13.4v. other alternator is bad.
6, AT idle, voltmeter between 12v cable stud of alternator and GNd.....You want 14-14.4v... if not, Bad Alternator.
Adding a GNd between alternator body and engine block would be appreciated.

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