Best chunk of advise I can give you after seeing you are buying a used booster, don't buy used parts. Unless it's a t-case for an iX. You are just asking for trouble.
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Yeah, I'm getting that now. Can't afford to drop $560 on a new booster (pelicanparts) right now. Hoping that the new MC does the trick. If not, the booster will have to wait until next month. Can't wait until my wife's job starts, so I'll have some extra $$!Originally posted by LJ851kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Originally posted by unloadedak#teamross
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Well, wah-HEY! That's a bit better! Farbin, yer the man! Thanks for the link!
I ordered a new ATE Master Cylinder today, as well as rebuild kits for the front calipers. Should be here Friday, and I'll do the swap on Saturday and report back.
Cheers!Originally posted by LJ851kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Originally posted by unloadedak#teamross
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UPDATE:
I swapped the new ATE Master onto my car today, and it works perfectly now! I tried to swap the brake booster out as well, but couldn't remove it from the car...it looks like I'd have to remove the intake manifold to have sufficient clearance for it to come out, unless I'm missing something!
Still no ABS, but I haven't had a chance to research that at all yet.
I want to say a big THANK YOUUUUU to any and all who posted here! I certainly appreciate the help!Originally posted by LJ851kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Originally posted by unloadedak#teamross
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As for the ABS like ZM Blue Devil suggested check the ABS over voltage protection relay usually known only as the "ABS relay" it is located under the dash above the steering column. It is a silver coloured relay.
There is a DIY about it on here but basically all you need to do is bend back the tabs on the case and slide it off then have a look at the circuit board. At one end you will see a thin wire which if this is your problem will be melted, just bridge the gap with some solder and voila! ABS works again.
The melted "wire" is a fuse to protect the ABS solenoid from voltage spikes, especially when jump starting.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodies
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Not to turn this into an argument....but....
Lets face it, ABS is there to prevent the little old lady from mashing the pedal down and not being able to turn.
The difference in braking between a good and bad set of pads/rotors is likely much more than the difference between abs on and off. Don't you think?Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Yeah ABS is kind for grannys isn't it. Hell on gravel it even increases your stopping distance.
After I got my ABS working again I could barely even get the shit to intervene at all I just sort of jammed the pedal and came to a stop but never felt pedal shudder or heard the tires locking and releasing, it took the stopbox at the auto-x to even prove to me it was doing anything.
If you are the average idiot and get into a panic situation and don't know what the fuck threshold braking is ABS can and will save your life I would think.Last edited by Adrian_Visser; 09-19-2010, 12:21 AM.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodies
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here is a tip, to check if your abs relay is working or not working you can take it apart and check if its making contact.
it looks like a wire solderd in 2 places.
is its broken you can fix it like this person did.
if its not broken you can diagnose that maybe the abs tooth rings at wheel are not working properly.
disclaimer:
diy article on how to check and repair your abs relay
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...8&postcount=39
video on how to solder and repair the abs relay
and this the backside of an abs ring.
this is what your looking for.
this is what can get dirty and cause the sensor to not read correctly.
here is a wiring diagram of where the abs wiring is setup.
each corner has a sensor that reads each ring.
the sensor is held in place by one allen screw
this is what the abs sensor looks like.
On my previous e30 this was the problem.
The tip of the sensor had soo much shit it couldn't get a good reading as well as the abs relay being burnt out.
I cleaned all sensors
replaced the abs relay with a new one.
new rotors pads
stainless lines
fresh fluid bled through the lines.
end of the bushy brake problem, or your case sinking brake pedal syndrome:o
this is what it bolts too
( this is on an e36 but it looks similar, and it will help you visualize what your looking for on your car.)
I hope this helps you out.
pm me if you have any questions
but from what you have responded it really sounds like your master cylinder
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Iwantspeed,
After I fixed my problem, I stopped looking at this thread, and just found it while looking for something else.
Thanks for posting on here! I still haven't looked at the ABS stuff for now, but with all the info you posted, I think I'll do so when I get a day off.
Thanks again!Originally posted by LJ851kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Originally posted by unloadedak#teamross
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