Ok I tried searching and could not find anything useful. I have an 86 325e which has been running fine, last week i took the car to go meet up with some friends and it just kept cutting out under load and eventually died. I got it home an suspected the fuel filter. Replaced that today, car starts up and idles fine, and will rev with no problems in neutral. However when you drive it, under load it just starts cutting out at 2k. Its not consistent either, it will drive fine then just lose power, if you downshift sometimes you can get it to kick back to life, other times it just turn off. any ideas?
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:shock:Originally posted by blunttech -
Might be completely irrelevant but my friends volvo would rev to like 2500 and just not go any higher, turned out to be the throttle position sensor. Im guessing its a similar sensor issue. -
By cutting out, you mean it completely dies or just feels like it loses power under load, but still is at least trying to fire? If it's the former, I'd guess crank sensor, otherwise you have some sort of fueling problem.Comment
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I just had a problem like this. It turned out to be the fuel pump.'02 Outback wagon
'87 325is 5sp
'93 Kawasaki ZR1100Comment
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is it always under load? or can ease past the 2k mark? what does your tac do when it starts cutting out?Comment
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yup its the crank censerOriginally posted by InuFayeOriginally posted by blunttechOriginally posted by george gravesComment
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sounds exactly like what happened to me so I replaced the fuel pump and it hasnt happened since.Comment
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Ill give it another drive around the block tomorrow morning to see what the tach is doing. The car can be eased past 2k but it doesnt really accelerate(the rpm will slowly go up but its not going any faster) so you have to give it more gas and then It starts cutting out. Ill look into the crank sensor and the fuel pump, the pump was one of the things I thought might be the culprit. Anyone know if there is a way to test the crank sensor?:shock:Originally posted by blunttechComment
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My faulty fuel pump relay made similar symptoms.Comment
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A friend had this issue and it turned out to be the fuel filter.Originally posted by StereoInstaller1Comment
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He changed that.
OP- pop off your rear seat and check the connection at the fuel pump. The connection corrodes and starts cutting power to th pump and will usually result in a fried relay. This is exactly what happened to mine and shortly after I had to replace the fuel pump.
mine would start and idle superb, but under load past 2k it would start to stutter and stumble. Got some new connectors, relay, and fuel pump and I was a happy camper. You should look to spend about $250 for a really decent pump and such.
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Is it bad that I was hoping this thread would be about someone R3V-ing a car worth $2k into a brick wall?Originally posted by Dozyproductions
All girls fuck but not all girls fuck around with combustion engines.Comment
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