Front rotor allen bolt stripped, now what?

[bernzpeed]

what is a "bolt extractor"?

[TrentW]

it should never be possible to strip one of these.

A) use copper anti-seize
B) put it in FINGER TIGHT

I realize the OP may not have put it in there himself, but I think most people put the bolt into a rusty hole, and then wrench it down as tight as they possibly can. If you do it right you can even reuse the setscrew a few times.

Yes.

[Charlie]

15 seconds with a dremel and a flathead screwdriver, seriously, this isn't hard.

-Charlie

[KenC]

u dont even need those fucking things. If your worring about them , you must be a fan of rebecca black!

Unless you have studs, the rotor won't stay on the edge of the hub because of the bevel.

[sweet6e30]

u dont even need those fucking things. If your worring about them , you must be a fan of rebecca black!

[Roysneon]

Just had to do the same thing, drilled that bish out.

[xAZxE30x]

EZ out.

works every time!

[Mossman]

The easiest way around this is to just beat on the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the hold down screw. Wear safety goggles. The rotor will break at the area where the hold down goes through, and once you get all the shattered parts of rotor off from around the screw, you can now put vice grips on it and work it out. Might need penetrant/heat but usually not.

Sheesh havent any of you guys worked in a flatrate shop?

This man speaks the truth, a decent sized hammer makes quick work of the rotor, throw a lug bolt in there to catch it when you smash it off though. Half the time it splits in half around the annoying rotor set screw too, so you can smack off the other half that's hanging on for dear life and remove the screw by hand or with some pliers.

I also have a beat to shit torx bit that is totally useless for any task other than hammering into 5mm allen head bolts and making short work of it. I generally give it a quick full blast with 1/2" impact with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, pretty deadly combo.

it's insane how much better the 6mm ones on the newer bimmers are, it's harder to strip one of those than it is to not strip a 5mm e30 one, and that's pretty hard.

[foofopps]

Yeah I got the screw out right away with vice grips, no problemo.

[Nick_S]

I would soak the remaining bit of the screw in PB, give it some heat and grab with some vice grips. Or get an easy-out.... +1 on anti-seize. Any bolt or screw I take out of my car gets wire wheeled and a nice coat of anti-seize. Good luck :up:

[bimmer630]

The easiest way around this is to just beat on the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the hold down screw. Wear safety goggles. The rotor will break at the area where the hold down goes through, and once you get all the shattered parts of rotor off from around the screw, you can now put vice grips on it and work it out. Might need penetrant/heat but usually not.

Sheesh havent any of you guys worked in a flatrate shop?

[delatlanta1281]

I have found that not using a cheap ass Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver & Tips will also prevent this.

+1 on the impact, but as far as bits go, you will never know what you are getting. Manufacturers outsource 100% of their bits... even Vermont American does now. Cost>Quality.

[nando]

you suck :p

I dunno, I don't have anything special - some from the local hardware store (that are probably from HF anyway), some random ones, and some black and decker bits that came from my wife's toolbox before we were married. Most of them have seen a lot of use, too.

[Hick]

Torch > penetrent

+99999999999

Also, as for the bits, it never fails. Even 'nice' crapsman bits break on me

[Farbin Kaiber]

I have found that not using a cheap ass Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver & Tips will also prevent this.