Wideband, stock o2

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • jaywood
    R3V Elite
    • Jul 2010
    • 4528

    #1

    Wideband, stock o2

    Ok guys, got some questions for you.

    I'm in the process of installing a turbo on my m20. I decided to get a wideband o2 sensor. I hooked up the wideband to the stock o2 harness using this diagram:



    Questions:

    Does the stock o2 heat up when the motor isn't running? Or will it only heat up when the engine is on...? Why is my gauge doing this? Also, does the little led next to the calibration push button only turn on when the motor is running? It seems like the led isn't working/blinking. I haven't started the car yet because I've been putting in new injectors and I have no intake/downpipe right now.

    Here's a video of what my gauge is doing





    Help me ;)
  • b5dover
    Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 90

    #2
    Before you first start the car the wideband has to be calibrated in open air. The flashing 7.4 is the default setting of the lc-1 to show a narrowband voltage to mimic the stock O2 sensor for OEM installs. If you want it to show actual AFR you need to change the settings in the LC-1 controller with a computer with a serial port. Check your LC-1 manual and it will tell you how to get it all set up. Also the LED will blink codes to diagnose problems.

    Comment

    • der affe
      Moderator
      Technical
      • Dec 2005
      • 8452

      #3
      http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php

      this forum helped me out a lot.

      are you running it with ms?
      seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

      Comment

      • jaywood
        R3V Elite
        • Jul 2010
        • 4528

        #4
        I hooked the yellow wire (analog 1) coming out of the lc-1 up to the stock narrowband signal coming out of the o2 harness. I hooked up the brown wire (iirc, I'll check my noted when I get home) to the gauge. The black wire coming out of the lc-1 goes to the calibration button/led. I'm pretty sure it's all hooked up right

        Step by step, how do I calibrate it for the first time?

        Comment

        • jaywood
          R3V Elite
          • Jul 2010
          • 4528

          #5
          I'm on a chip. No MS for me.

          Comment

          • der affe
            Moderator
            Technical
            • Dec 2005
            • 8452

            #6
            according to innovate, it will not work correctly with motronic and send a narrow band signal and a wide band to the gauge.

            i would call them to sort that end of it out. they are actually pertty helpful on the phone
            seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen


            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Comment

            • jaywood
              R3V Elite
              • Jul 2010
              • 4528

              #7
              Originally posted by der affe
              according to innovate, it will not work correctly with motronic and send a narrow band signal and a wide band to the gauge.

              i would call them to sort that end of it out. they are actually pertty helpful on the phone
              Yep, already called them. I asked them what wire to use for the narrowband signal. The guy told me yellow. He said to not do it because it might throw a check engine light, but I already had one so I figured why not.

              So where do I go from here? I think everything will work, I just don't get why the gauge is blinking "7.4"

              Comment

              • TurboJake
                No R3VLimiter
                • Oct 2010
                • 3780

                #8
                Why not just keep a factory narrowband o2 for the motronic purposes, and have the LC-1 be seperate in another bung, purely for tuning/monitoring purposes?


                Leave Me Transaction Feedback

                Comment

                • jaywood
                  R3V Elite
                  • Jul 2010
                  • 4528

                  #9
                  I guess the best way to wire in the lc-1 (according to some) is to get all of your signals/ground from the stock o2 sensor harness. I also figured it would be easier to just have 1 "o2" sensor

                  Comment

                  • TurboJake
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2010
                    • 3780

                    #10
                    That would make more sense for a megasquirt, or an ecu with data monitoring and recording. But for a regular Motronic computer I would let the stock o2 do it's thing, and let the motronic function how it's supposed to (To a degree), and use the wideband seperate with datalogging software and/or guage for more accurate tuning and monitoring.. Win win really.


                    Leave Me Transaction Feedback

                    Comment

                    • jaywood
                      R3V Elite
                      • Jul 2010
                      • 4528

                      #11
                      Yeppp, good point. The lc-1 has a built in narrowband analog (1) so I decided to just use that. I already have this all wired in. I just don't know why the gauge is blinking. I also don't know how I should calibrate it for the first time.

                      Comment

                      • TurboJake
                        No R3VLimiter
                        • Oct 2010
                        • 3780

                        #12
                        The LED flashing is usually associated with a wire crossed somewhere, or a bad pair of grounds.

                        Calibration. Open air. The number your looking for is 20.0. then install in exhaust


                        Leave Me Transaction Feedback

                        Comment

                        • jaywood
                          R3V Elite
                          • Jul 2010
                          • 4528

                          #13
                          Which wires could it be?

                          When I first turned it on it didn't blink at all, just a solid 7.4. After about 3 times of turning it on/off (with delays in between each start...I heard the lc-1 doesn't like rapid shutoffs/ons) it started to blink 7.4. Now it's a constant blink.

                          Comment

                          • Sagaris
                            R3VLimited
                            • Sep 2009
                            • 2243

                            #14
                            I tried wiring the 12V + and ground from the O2 sensor heater to my Innovate MTX-L. It powered up, but it would flicker 888 or something and if I raised the revs the flickering slowed down and I could see that there was an error code "E9" stating that the voltage to the gauge was insufficient. I re-wired the power to a different source and it works perfectly.

                            As a random side note I got a motronic fault code 1221 today while driving around with the simulated narrowband signal going to motronic . I may have lost my power signal for a fraction of a second so I need to recheck my power wiring to make sure it is secure.

                            Comment

                            • jaywood
                              R3V Elite
                              • Jul 2010
                              • 4528

                              #15
                              The power wire is the red wire coming off of the lc-1. Where did you tap into for the switched +12v signal? I will do this when I get home and see what happens

                              Comment

                              Working...