Looking to join the E30 Family

[Massimo]

By the sounds of it you like your bigger engines, but you want something with good MPG. So I would recommend the 318is 100kw 1.8lt it is fair good for what it is. They are also more fun to drive stock through the twisty roads you can really throw them in.

At the end of the day though no E30 is fast stock compared to today's standards, so you need to be prepaird to live with the standard general slowness of the E30 stock, or turbo/swap. This will help you make your mind up. If you are going to swap just find a late model E30 with a good body/interior. Turbo on the other hand will require more looking as you want to find one with a good motor if you are not going to rebuild it.

M42 can be boosted with some 8.5:1 pistons and can make 250-300hp at the crank. I believe the M20 can do 350-400hp at the crank with swapping some parts but I am not well versed in the M20.

Personally I think you would be better of with a 2.5lt then the M42. seems as though you like the torque and I think you would be dissapointed with the lack there of from the M42.

[Jalves619]

Pictures of the s30 are mandatory. I'm still looking for a nice 240z to replace the one I sold a few years back.

[mkcman17]

i still just don't like early models. i rarely see one that wows me. it's pretty difficult to make those bumpers look good or modern.

etas are decent drives and can sound sweet, but i just can't get over the lack of top-end.

i would say coming from an s30 that you'd be looking for a late model b25 car.

88-89 had projector lights and pop out rear windows, no airbag.

if i hadn't found mine, i'd probably look for an 88 325e. my buddy had one that we turned into an easy stroker, and that thing had some balls.

[TurboJake]

No crackheads for us. Just asians and redheads.
For the record though. She still doesn't have a spare tire. Baby or car. I don't procreate.

As long as it's diving boards, it should have high rear arches. But I MAY be wrong in that statement.

[ohthejosh]

the ETA was stopped after 87. but in 88 they had the SETA. Which leaves more options open for him powerwise too, while still getting all the early model appearances.

4 door feels NO different than the coupe. I have a coupe, the woman has a 4 door. I could not feel a difference in handling characteristics between our two cars when they were stock. The weight difference was 20 lbs when we popped them on a scale... My coupe was heavier... IIRC She didn't have a spare tire at the time.

But dont all 88's have low rear arches and larger tails?

SETA seems like an awesome car for OP.

Jake we know you had dead 20lb crackhead hookers in the trunk during the weigh in ;)

[TurboJake]

the ETA was stopped after 87. but in 88 they had the SETA. Which leaves more options open for him powerwise too, while still getting all the early model appearances.

4 door feels NO different than the coupe. I have a coupe, the woman has a 4 door. I could not feel a difference in handling characteristics between our two cars when they were stock. The weight difference was 20 lbs when we popped them on a scale... My coupe was heavier... IIRC She didn't have a spare tire at the time.

[ohthejosh]

Ice and snow are just myths where I live and I definitely wouldn't need the extra possible costs/maintenance, still very cool!

Ohthejosh, good info I'm thinking that the eta sounds good. Now when you say chip are you talking about fuel injection control module chip?

Also you say pre 88 is the way to go, and I'm reading that in 87 there were some pretty big revisions, like the M40 being introduced and the switch from Jetronic to Motronic injection.. So why pre 88?

So it's really looking like the eta with a stick is what I want.

To me coupe is the only way to go, but if worst comes to worst how does a 4dr feel compared to the coupe?

I say pre 88 in regards to the body/stylings. If you like the smaller rear tails, higher rear arches, and diving board bumpers that's the eraly models are what you want. The eta was stopped after 87 if im not mistaken. As far as the everything else you stated I would not know my knowledge is limited in the technical/mechanical department.

4dr vs 2dr, I can't tell you much besides they have the same length and width, 4dr does not mean bigger. I hope everyone else can provide you with better info!

[walktheboard]

in excellent condition, for a late or early model 325i expect to pay 4-6k.

[Threehz]

Ahh good idea, bushings are never given the love they need!

You guys are awesome, great community! Had to say it.

What kind of cash should I be expecting to put down on an E30 in good shape. KBB only goes back to 91 and that suggested a 325i coupe in excellent condition go for 1675. Seems very very cheap to me, but is this correct? I was thinking around three for one in good shape.

[davem]

Yeah I do love the older E28's but as much as it goes against everything I believe in, the E30 being newer will be likely to have less problems. An E28 would be a hella fun project though, I'd turn one of those into one hell of a mean machine.

Anyhow I'd say I have a pretty good knowledge base about cars now. I also plan on doing 98% of the work on it myself, or all of it.

I definitely hear what you are saying about kids ruining the cars, happens to all good cars. I'm hoping to find one that was driven by some older folk or at least someone who kept it well maintained and as stock as possible (but then again, isn't that all of our dream).

Since we're here, what are some things to look for (that are wrong) when I go looking? For instance old Z's are prone to rust under the battery tray and places like the frame rails and doglegs can mean bad news.

Right when I get it I'll most likely change:
Sparks
Spark wires
Water pump
Timing belt
O2 Sensor
Water temp
Thermostat
Filters (Fuel, Air, Oil)
All fluids of course
Distributor cap & rotor? (Do these have electronic?)

Anything else?

Suspension bushings is a big one on e30s, they're typically never done:
-control arm bushings
-subframe bushings
-rear trailing arm bushings

They also like to rust under the battery tray.

[Threehz]

Yeah I do love the older E28's but as much as it goes against everything I believe in, the E30 being newer will be likely to have less problems. An E28 would be a hella fun project though, I'd turn one of those into one hell of a mean machine.

Anyhow I'd say I have a pretty good knowledge base about cars now. I also plan on doing 98% of the work on it myself, or all of it.

I definitely hear what you are saying about kids ruining the cars, happens to all good cars. I'm hoping to find one that was driven by some older folk or at least someone who kept it well maintained and as stock as possible (but then again, isn't that all of our dream).

Since we're here, what are some things to look for (that are wrong) when I go looking? For instance old Z's are prone to rust under the battery tray and places like the frame rails and doglegs can mean bad news.

Right when I get it I'll most likely change:
Sparks
Spark wires
Water pump
Timing belt
O2 Sensor
Water temp
Thermostat
Filters (Fuel, Air, Oil)
All fluids of course
Distributor cap & rotor? (Do these have electronic?)

Anything else?

[russhixmo]

I've had two e28's and an e30 and all my buddies have e30's and they love them, I personally love my e28's more because they stand out more, ride a little smoother because there original purpose was a luxury car and they have a shit ton of power rite out the gate. As far as gas goes for both e30's and e28's there actually really good. I get around 25-30 mpg on my e28 and I use to get around the same in my e30. My buddy had a 318i and we drove to NJ and back and only used not even a half tank. If your looking for gas mileage and no power buy an E model but if ur willing to sacrifice a few mpg's for a little more power buy the I or the IS. You really can't go wrong with any of these cars but you do need a little more then average knowledge about cars if your looking to buy one. I don't say that to discourage you just to worn you and from what you've said you have a good knowledge of cars already so if your looking for a nice clean well maintained e30 or e28 try and find one that wasn't a kids car. Soooo many kids buy these cars cuz they think there cool and hack the shit out of them as far as electrical goes and there's usually where your problems are. I usually look for cars that are one owner or buy from someone who knows what there doing and does it rite. When you do get one, do alllllll the basics on it(O2 sensors, timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, and change your fluids). I did that on my first e28 that I bought with 145k on it and when I sold it it had almost 190k on it and all I did in between then was the regular oil changes and filters and never had a single problem with it. There great cars all around. As far as year goes, I'd have to agree and say get a late model (89-91). Look for plastic bumpers. Don't try and be cheap about it. Your going to need to spend a little money for something that's going to last. Good luck. Feel free to ask any questions.


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[InuFaye]

if the T-case goes in the ix you might as well throw the entire car away and buy another one.

T-case is 2-3k depending on condition.

[Threehz]

Ice and snow are just myths where I live and I definitely wouldn't need the extra possible costs/maintenance, still very cool!

Ohthejosh, good info I'm thinking that the eta sounds good. Now when you say chip are you talking about fuel injection control module chip?

Also you say pre 88 is the way to go, and I'm reading that in 87 there were some pretty big revisions, like the M40 being introduced and the switch from Jetronic to Motronic injection.. So why pre 88?

So it's really looking like the eta with a stick is what I want.

To me coupe is the only way to go, but if worst comes to worst how does a 4dr feel compared to the coupe?

[325ix]

Looks like you got the lock on both those years and the awd, nice! How is the awd on these, I thought it was really cool they added that.

Good to know.

The AWD is fantastic in the snow and slippery conditions. It is damn near impossible to make them slide or spin the tires. However, they are more expensive to buy and some parts are more expensive.