rear subframe removal: remove entire driveshaft?

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  • irish44j
    R3VLimited
    • Oct 2011
    • 2763

    #1

    rear subframe removal: remove entire driveshaft?

    I'm down to the last stage of the rear subframe removal with everything else on the rear end removed. The only holdup is the driveshaft. Since it doesn't compress enough on the slip-joint to clear the rear subframe, I'm assuming the answer is removal of the DS.

    The real question - if the slip-joint shaft-lock-nut is loosened, can the rear half of the driveshaft be removed by itself (leaving the front shaft/middle bearing/guibo attached), or can the DS only be removed as a single piece?

    thanks in advance.
    Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
    Track/street e21 build
    visit Condor Speed Shop
    visit Motorsport Hardware



    [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI
  • Hick
    R3V OG
    • Sep 2005
    • 6451

    #2
    yes but make sure you mark the ds because it is balanced.

    or, just remove the whole thing, it takes very little work


    Originally posted by vlad
    Do you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?

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    • irish44j
      R3VLimited
      • Oct 2011
      • 2763

      #3
      Originally posted by Hick
      yes but make sure you mark the ds because it is balanced.

      or, just remove the whole thing, it takes very little work
      thanks, yeah definitely will mark it. Only issue with removing the whole thing is getting it out with the forward exhaust section still in place.

      Does the slipjoint locknut need to be completely removed, or just loosened?
      Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
      Track/street e21 build
      visit Condor Speed Shop
      visit Motorsport Hardware



      [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

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      • bmwstudent
        E30 Fanatic
        • Sep 2011
        • 1364

        #4
        to separate the two halves you will need to remove it completely from the rear section, then pull hard. Definitely mark it
        sigpic

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        • mrsleeve
          I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
          • Mar 2005
          • 16385

          #5
          Its been a long time since I have done this. But I dont remember pulling the Drive shaft to get it out. IIRC I just slipped it off the diff, and then dropped the diff out.

          I may have pulled the drive shaft though I honestly cant remember
          Originally posted by Fusion
          If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
          The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


          The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

          Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
          William Pitt-

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          • Massimo
            No R3VLimiter
            • Jan 2008
            • 3207

            #6
            You can remove the sub-frame with out removing the DS. So remove the nuts that connect the DS to the diff. Then slip the diff back as far as it will go. Now start to lower the Sub-frame, you will get to a point where the DS will be sitting on that pipe that connects between the fuel tank. Now at this point you may be low enough the the diff bush is clear from the mount and you can simply back the sub-frame out. Or it may not quiet clear like mine so you have to bend the pipe a little.
            sigpic

            Comment

            • mrsleeve
              I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
              • Mar 2005
              • 16385

              #7
              ^

              That sounds like how I did it, but I dropped out the Diff before trying pull out the sub frame
              Originally posted by Fusion
              If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
              The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


              The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

              Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
              William Pitt-

              Comment

              • irish44j
                R3VLimited
                • Oct 2011
                • 2763

                #8
                Originally posted by Massimo
                You can remove the sub-frame with out removing the DS. So remove the nuts that connect the DS to the diff. Then slip the diff back as far as it will go. Now start to lower the Sub-frame, you will get to a point where the DS will be sitting on that pipe that connects between the fuel tank. Now at this point you may be low enough the the diff bush is clear from the mount and you can simply back the sub-frame out. Or it may not quiet clear like mine so you have to bend the pipe a little.
                thanks, that's exactly how I ended up doing it, and it just cleared.

                Getting it back in the same way with new subframe bushings may be a bit more difficult, we'll see :)
                Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
                Track/street e21 build
                visit Condor Speed Shop
                visit Motorsport Hardware



                [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

                Comment

                • Wh33lhop
                  R3V OG
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 11705

                  #9
                  It was a bit of a bitch to get the driveshaft reconnected for me. I had to wedge a pry bar in the expansion joint and twist it to expand it, then got a nut on one of the studs, cranked down on it, plus lots of lever action. It worked in the end, just funny how tough it was after removal was cake.
                  paint sucks

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