New to E30's

[chudson91]

Well after my buddy having 3 e30's i decided to join the game.

So i purchased a 89 325i and was known overheating when i got it.

Car does not over heat any more.

So tell me what should i do now.

Here is what i have done so far:

-New headgasket(machined the head)
-New waterpump
-New timing belt
-new radiator
-New plugs
-New intake boot
-New IM, EM, and coolant gaskets
-Sport seats
-Both coolant temp sensor and sender
-New fuel regulator
-New alternator
-New fan clutch
-New Tstat

-Air Ride suspension
-xxr wheels

[dnguyen1963]

So...what's the problem or you're just looking for things to do?

[MrBurgundy]

Put bottle caps back on it.

[Wschnitz]

XXR's... what kind? Air ride might be cool with the right wheels.

[iamsam]

Yeah I think air ride will definitely fix your overheating problem.

[semaj4712]

Pics of said car?

[N2MYE30]

Im not seeing a new thermostat on the list. Also, are you sure there is no air in the system (engine)?

[lambo]

Im not seeing a new thermostat on the list. Also, are you sure there is no air in the system (engine)?

Here's a great write-up on bleeding the cooling system. I've used it multiple times.

The ballooning of the hoses sounds like excessive pressure in the cooling system, which could be from a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. It also sounds like the fan clutch may be bad.

With the engine and radiator at operating temperature drag a rolled up newspaper against the fan blade tips. A good clutch will shred the newspaper before you can stop the fan.

A simple check for a head gasket leak is to fully bleed the cooling system (procedure below), drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and rebleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket failure. Another clue would be hard radiator hoses after the car has completely clooled down.

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[MrBurgundy]

Does it still overheat?

[sector6]

Fan Clutch

[dougie30]

Pics of said car?

[e30jake]

[ELVA164]

....Welcome to R3V though!

[chudson91]

Dang i forgot to mention the Tstat is new and fan clutch.

Also the car does not overheat any more either. i bleed the system of air and its all good.

Im thinking my icv is dead tho, car drives good and what not but it idles weird.

[ELVA164]

ICV could be the issue, but a weird idle could also be due to vacuum leaks or gunky injectors.