Not sure if I should part out or restore

[TheTacoMan]

That may be a super ETA if its an 88, engine pics?

[eltapier]

That may be a super ETA if its an 88, engine pics?

ETA? Pardon the newb question. I will take engine pics tomorrow as well as interior pics.

[TheTacoMan]

ETA? Pardon the newb question. I will take engine pics tomorrow as well as interior pics.

It means "e", 1988 was a special year for the "e", it was called the super e.

[eltapier]

Never mind just read up on "ETA"

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350267

[eltapier]

It means "e", 1988 was a special year for the "e", it was called the super e.

Aaahh ok. Now I'm interested to find out if this is an "ETA".

[5ickride]

Im right by you in fair lawn!

[Court M3]

Car was made in 87 as an 88 model, just as my car is an 83 323i with a production date of 1982.

I'd keep the car and fix it up over time, took me two years to get mine done and I'm still not finished.

[eltapier]

I appreciate everyone's feedback and due to the majority of the members saying to fix her up, that's just what I'm going to do.

[eltapier]

5ickride,

Feel free to swing by anytime. Ill PM you my address maybe you can help me figure out why she isn't starting.

[325ix]

Car was made in 87 as an 88 model, just as my car is an 83 323i with a production date of 1982.

I'd keep the car and fix it up over time, took me two years to get mine done and I'm still not finished.

Was going to say this, my car was an 11/87 sold as an 88 model.


The rust doesn't look too bad. I say fix it.

[eltapier]

Was going to say this, my car was an 11/87 sold as an 88 model.


The rust doesn't look too bad. I say fix it.

You have all convinced me. Ill be fixing her up. Yeah the rust really isn't bad and overall the body is in good shape.

[eltapier]

HHHMMM......So where should i start? lol

[TheTacoMan]

still could be a seta, mine was made in november of 1987.

[Jean]

Rule #1 - start with the best/cleanest chassis/body you can.

Inspect it better to see just how much rust it's got.....

[Simon S]

Rule #1 - start with the best/cleanest chassis/body you can.

Inspect it better to see just how much rust it's got.....

Second this. The rust on the rear fender well alone would cause me to pass on full restoration endeavors. You'd end up sinking ~10+ on a car that would only be worth $5-6 when done.

Like I must have $14K+ in mine including car and paint. Aside from that - interior wasn't ragged/dash wasn't cracked, and body was remarkably solid. When you start going through and replacing all rubber and wear/maintenance items, it adds up fast.

In your shoes, I'd be thinking more in terms of getting it mechanically healthy and using it as a driver/winter car - or maybe have fun with it in terms of sleeper/engine swap car. That or i'd get it running and flip it. Not sure parting it would be worth the time..