Help with Buying Decision

[EVLE30]

Does the 318i have a sunroof?

Yup, it has a manual/non-powered sunroof. Why do you ask? Is a sunroof a good or a bad thing?

I think you may enjoy driving this one better than the e.

I think so too. I haven't test driven it yet. But I'm thinking I will enjoy it more than the 325e as well.

I've only viewed it in person and listened/watched the engine run and watched the owner drive it into a parking lot to meet me and then leave again. He is hesitant to let people test drive the car until the buyer has shown a serious level of interest. So I made him a conditional offer (subject to test drive and full mechanical inspection) that I mentioned in my earlier post, and he said it was less than he was hoping so he would think about it. I guess if he accepts my conditional offer, then a test drive will be the next step.

[GillesBigCowboy]

I think you may enjoy driving this one better than the e.

[Bearmw]

Does the 318i have a sunroof?

[EVLE30]

So I've recently come across a 1991 318i sedan, with a chipped M42 engine. I wasn't consdiering a sedan, but I do like the idea of an approximate 2,550 lb curb weight. I saw it in person last night, and it was in pretty good shape, with some minor body damage on the driver front fender and the lower edge of the rear bumper valence, and the dash had a 2 or 3 cracks in it. No rust that I could see (car came to Canada from California a few years ago).

http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1991-BMW-3-Series-318i-Sedan-W0QQAdIdZ482259550

I threw out an offer of $3,000.... the seller is currently mulling it over. What's everyone's thoughts?

[EVLE30]

DARN!!!

I acted too slowly (i.e. spent too much time thinking about things) and the 325e has been sold to someone else.

Oh well. Guess I'll have to be ready to make a move the next time I see an E30 in such great condition.

[EVLE30]

^ Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciated.

[Holland]

Oh! Thanks for that. I wasn't aware of that difference. Do you have any more details on what exactly is involved in going from 45mm to 51mm struts?

1985 and earlier cars are non ABS and come with 45mm strut tubes. Keep in mind that the rear axle shafts are smaller and weaker as well. Honestly I would go with 1986 or newer as there are fewer things to replace just to fit most aftermarket parts. Not to mention engine swaps are a bit easier in the later cars due to updated coding plugs.

I own a 1985 E30. I have to upgrade the rear trailing arms for larger axles, front strut tubes for better suspension, rear diff to a medium case LSD, front brakes to vented rotors, comfort seats in early cars are horse hair, and deteriorate everywhere, sealed beam headlights, early oversized diving boards, the list goes on.

Find a good condition IS car. It comes with all of these things from the factory and you won't have to spend all your time finding these things to upgrade.

[EVLE30]

Do the e car! Its not like a swap will be hard. remember though the e car only has 45mm struts over the 51 most e30's have. so when you go to do a suspension upgrade your gonna have to change them!

Oh! Thanks for that. I wasn't aware of that difference. Do you have any more details on what exactly is involved in going from 45mm to 51mm struts?

[Chriskbmx]

Do the e car! Its not like a swap will be hard. remember though the e car only has 45mm struts over the 51 most e30's have. so when you go to do a suspension upgrade your gonna have to change them!

[EVLE30]

..... and it looks like the front fenders have been replaced. Probably major mayhem underneath.

Thanks for the observation. What makes you say the front fenders look like they've been replaced?

it has more to do with how the car was stored and the climate (snow, salt, gravel) than late model's having common rust issues. most e30s I've seen from warm climates are typically rust free. The 'e' in this case was probably garaged and taken care of most of its life. The late-model 'i' was probably parked outside in the snow for 10 years sometime during its 20+ year life.

After meeting with the 325e owner and checking out the car and learning about the car's history, it was definitely very well-maintained by the previous owner. Extensive service records showing that every little thing that ever needed attention always got taken care of. And I think it shows in the great condition of the car.

[coldweatherblue]

I wasn't aware that body rust was such a common issue with the late model 325is.

it has more to do with how the car was stored and the climate (snow, salt, gravel) than late model's having common rust issues. most e30s I've seen from warm climates are typically rust free. The 'e' in this case was probably garaged and taken care of most of its life. The late-model 'i' was probably parked outside in the snow for 10 years sometime during its 20+ year life.

[SubDad]

Having been burned myself by a rusty iS, I suggest you go with that nice looking E.

But look under the front carpets first anyway.

That iS has bad rear wheel arches (Bad,bad,bad) and it looks like the front fenders have been replaced. Probably major mayhem underneath.

[EVLE30]

^ Thank you for enlightening me. :)

[3vilE30]

Here I go correct me if I'm mistaken on any parts.
325e pre 1988 m20b27 head casting #200 had a different head the smallest combustion chamber size, someone correct me if I'm wrong but the eta head had less cam journals? Eta's have 4 bearing cams. More restrictive afm, intake manifold, throttle body and ran a basic version of motronic 1.0. Smaller valves, single valve springs, less aggressive cams lower red line about 4.8k, Long diff gears basically in its stock form its a freeway car/DD. If you wanted to make power with the eta you would eventually have to swap in an I head due to having less cam journals and small combustion chamber. So essentially when doing a swap from an eta you need an I: head with dual valve springs, cam, throttle body, intake manifold, afm, ecu, wiring harness, pistons, fuel injection system I might be missing a few things but you get the idea. Oh eta pistons are flat topped and the I head is more "spherical" so the eta pistons wont work you either need super eta pistons or I pistons with 2-3mm shaved off the top

From the super eta stand point well super eta's already have the I head just not dual valve spring'd or I cam'd or the I throttle body but the intake manifold is flow matched to the I head with longer runners for torque.
For the super eta all you need is dual valve springs a better cam maybe an I afm/intake manifold, an I throttle body and and I ecu for the redline you can use the stock super eta pistons because they're made for the 885 I head but with lower compression ratio 8.5:1.
I'm eventually going to rebuild my head with better valve springs, throw in a better cam get the I ecu and throttle body and boost it. The compression ratio is more than ideal for boost :mrgreen:
I have a Super ETA by the way :)

[EVLE30]

^ Thanks for the info! It's greatly appreciated. :up:

And excuse my ignorance, but what makes the SETA engine a better candidate for the 2.7L stroker kit compared to the earlier model year non-SETA engine?