Help with Buying Decision

[slaterd]

^^
The block is capable of using the 2.5L I head. Since the block already has all the 2.7L goodies a simple "I" head swap will give you the power of a 2.5L but with the great torque of a 2.7L. It's a very well rounded swap. Probably the cheapest and IMO best engine "swap' that's available for our e30's....I like moderation though.
Not sure on the technical stuff as to why an 88 is specifically qualified for this swap...look around in here....there's a lot of info about that swap here on R3V.

[jorch]

And excuse my ignorance, but what makes the SETA engine a better candidate for the 2.7L stroker kit compared to the earlier model year non-SETA engine?
...............................
uniq astrology website

[EVLE30]

So.... long story short.... I bought a Scion FR-S. :D

Thanks to everyone for their help and advice along the way. Enjoy your E30's!!!

[Stanley Rockafella]

You're saying that folks in AB and SK are asking for more than the folks in BC??

This is correct young grasshopper

I got mine several years ago and paid a mint (as nice e30's in SK were pretty much extinct when I got mine from AB.)

Out here you still see many original owners driving their e30's (secretaries, house wives, old greying dudes). When they sell,you are usually getting a very well maintained car that's never seen the harsh realities of a prarie winter (-30C starts, sand, oodles of SALT all over the road icy ruts and 5 foot high snow drifts). These generally kill ANY nice car within a matter of 10-15 years of constant abuse.

Out here near the coast, the only harsh condition my e30 has to face is idling in traffic on a hot (25C) day. The winters where I live, consist of rain and more rain and i never take my e30 skiing, since it's not very capable of loading skiis and a snowboard in the back. What would really help is if the rear seat folded down, but it's ok for what it is.

[EVLE30]

Yes, they *can be* that cheap, if you're resourceful and willing to DIY. I put together a refreshed 2.7L with a hotter cam in mine for about $600 after all was said and done. Going rate for a known good getrag is what, $2-250?

Wow.... I had no idea parts could be that cheap. Thanks for the info.

Once you decide you love your rustbucket, then what? Scrap it and start all over on the shell you should have bought in the first place? Just my .02

Yup, pretty much. :) The thing is, I'm just eliminating the risk of spending a lot of money on something that I may not want forever. If I buy a car for $1,000 and fall in love with it, then sell it for, say, $500 at the end of the day, then I've spent $500 to have some fun for a few months or longer. I can easily think of ways to spend a lot more money for a shorter time of "fun". ;) And I would have learned a lot about the car, and then I would be going into a more expensive/permanent purchase with a lot more knowledge overall.

I'm at the point where i'd much rather buy a broken car that's clean so that I can put it together and know it's done properly and to my liking.

It sounds to me like you're at a much more advanced stage of familiarity of these cars. Whereas, I am not. I think that's where the difference lies. But I really do appreciate your insights on this topic. So thank you for that.

[mkcman17]

Yes, they *can be* that cheap, if you're resourceful and willing to DIY. I put together a refreshed 2.7L with a hotter cam in mine for about $600 after all was said and done. Going rate for a known good getrag is what, $2-250?

Once you decide you love your rustbucket, then what? Scrap it and start all over on the shell you should have bought in the first place? Just my .02

I'm at the point where i'd much rather buy a broken car that's clean so that I can put it together and know it's done properly and to my liking.

[EVLE30]

^ I agree with mkcman as well. If I was looking for an E30 to own and love and cherish indefinitely, then absolutely, I'd get the best body I could find and then replace whatever drivetrain stuff needed to be replaced. But in my case, I'm experimenting to a certain degree and "testing the waters" with E30's in general. I see it as a small pre-investment for a possible bigger investment/commitment in the future. While in the meantime, I've got my other vehicles to enjoy while I take this E30 for an extended test drive of sorts.

[word is bond]

I dunno - in my mind, the chassis is the car more than any other part. It's what you're buying more than anything else. I'd rather a clean rust-free body with clapped out interior and blown head gasket, than a low mileage engine and trans in a rust bucket.
I think mkcman is just trying to suggest that if your gonna do "some major engine/transmission work," wouldn't you rather do it on top of a strong foundation?
That said, I can understand the other side of it. If this is a short term car, and you're not gonna invest major work and money into it, maybe a beater is the right choice.

[EVLE30]

I guess it would/could be a "dud" in my mind if I dropped $5,000 to $7,000 (typical asking price for clean E30's in my neck of the woods, it seems) and then I had to do some major engine/transmission work on top of that in the near future.

Buy another motor or transmission "for a couple hundred"??? Am I missing something here? Are E30 drivetrains that inexpensive???

Anyways, I don't think I would truly regret buying a "beater body" if I spend very little for it (like $1,000), have fun driving it, and then one day sell it and recoup a few bucks. I see a beater car as one that I wouldn't mind experimenting/learning on, because after all, even if I really screw something up, I screwed up on a cheap car, and not a more expensive one. And then one day I can (or may?) take my cheaply acquired experience and knowledge and apply it towards buying a clean E30. :)

[mkcman17]

If the body is clean and straight, how can it be a 'dud?' Worst case scenario, motor or trans blows up. Big deal, by another for a couple hundred, get some dirt under your fingers and get that learning experience you're looking for.

You WILL regret buying a beater body.

[EVLE30]

Branded title meaning not a clear title (ie salvage, theft, rebuild etc)

There's nothing less satisfying than dumping parts, time and money into a car that is, in the end, a rustbucket.

Oh, okay. I figured that was what you meant by branded title. When I read your previous post, I thought you referring to that rusty car that I had linked to as also having something to do with a branded title. I realize now that you were just making a point about the two different kisses-of-death for used cars.

As far as dumping time and money into a rust-bucket, I guess that's where I'm maybe in a unique position. I see that rust-bucket as a mechanically strong car that's fun to drive (as I drove it pretty hard through some mountain switchback roads, and I really enjoyed it) and a car that would be a great way for me to learn to do more of my own wrenching. And in the end, even if the car dies on me or I find myself ready to move on, even I just recouped a few bucks from selling it for scrap, then I still would have had some fun, learned some stuff, and didn't spend a lot of money...... compared to possibly spending thousands for a better condition car only to (a) find out it's a dud, or (b) find out that my interest in E30's has come and gone and then be faced with having to sell it and maybe losing more than what I would have lost compared to scrapping the rust-bucket?

Maybe this is a bizarre way of looking at things? lol

[mkcman17]

Branded title meaning not a clear title (ie salvage, theft, rebuild etc)

There's nothing less satisfying than dumping parts, time and money into a car that is, in the end, a rustbucket.

[EVLE30]

So you're saying the degree of rust on that car makes it a non-choice, even as just a play-toy to run around in for some light-hearted fun and to get familiar with the world of E30? Even if the rust is primarily cosmetic from what I was able to see?

And what do you mean by "branded title"?

I was thinking of offering $2,000 (CDN) for that automatic (which may change/go down after seeing it in person). Sounds like I'm being too generous?

[mkcman17]

Rust and branded title are the two absolute no's for buying and selling these things.

And interior isn't relevant. You can swap that out with color of choice for reasonably cheap too.

That first car is maybe worth 1500 in my opinion.

[EVLE30]

in my honest opinion, that's a lot of money for a mis-matched car. the cost of a manual swap varies a whole lot and depends on a lot of factors. using junkyard parts i have completed one for as little as $160. i have heard people paying the better part of $1500 to have one done for them though. realistically a DIY job should cost $3-500, and hiring a guy off r3v or otherwise should run about $8-900 p+l

Agreed. That's a high asking price. I would go in with some hard negotiation, and would only consider it for a much lower price. And thanks for the info on some typical costs for the swap.

I have to admit..... after having seen a wide variety of cars over the past few months, I'm starting to lean back towards this car from the start of this thread:

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1987-BMW-325is-W0QQAdIdZ416644115

Yes, it's very rusty in the body, and the interior is mediocre, but I've had so much fun driving it, as the engine, transmission and suspension were solid. I'm starting to wonder if spending just a bit over $1,000 (after negotiation) for my first E30 and having fun thrashing around in it may be the best way to get familiar with this pedigree of cars. And then after a few months/years, I'll either decide to get another E30, or decide that I've enjoyed my time with these cars and will then move on to something else. Either way, I would have only spent a small amount of money to introduce myself to this car.