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    Roll cage roll call!

    Ok boys.....and girls....the time has come and I will be starting the cage on the car soon. I'm building my own bender and need to order the die and wanted to know what you guys that have either built or had them built were using.

    Need to decide between a 4.5" or 6" die....

    ....and whether I want to use 1-1/2" .120 wall or 1-3/4" .95 wall D.O.M. Weight between the to are minimal so maybe provide insight on which might be preferable and why. I'm thinking 1-1/2" as it's smaller.

    If you have any cool cage photos I'd take those too, I'm a visual guy and am always looking for ideas!

    Bender (Air/Hydraulic goodness)


    Test subject
    Last edited by IronFreak; 06-24-2013, 11:50 AM.
    sigpic

    Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

    1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

    Instagram @rebellionforge

    #2
    Are you building the cage for a particular series or class?
    84 325e - 91 325i - 92 318 touring - 91 Trans Am - 01 S4 avant - 03 S-type R - 96 F350 - 15 SS - 84 Biturbo - 91 Defender

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      #3
      I want to do a full cage that meets scca specs and allow tandem drifting. Not a spec car or anything.
      sigpic

      Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

      1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

      Instagram @rebellionforge

      Comment


        #4
        Space is not an issue in an e30, go with the 1 3/4".. 1 1/2" will look like toothpicks in there. I just had my back half done with 1 3/4" and I'm happy with it
        - '88 m54 coupe

        <3

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          #5
          berlow94 just got a cage put in while at levent's. dont remember who made it though
          Originally Posted by scaraveos
          Are saying about welding the head to the block? and if yes how is it seperated if required?

          (possibly a stupid post)

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            #6
            Here's mine so far

            - '88 m54 coupe

            <3

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jb325is View Post
              Space is not an issue in an e30, go with the 1 3/4".. 1 1/2" will look like toothpicks in there. I just had my back half done with 1 3/4" and I'm happy with it
              I disagree, I have been in cars with both and think the 1.75 looks big and blocks more of the A pillar in an E30. This is why I am going to use 1.5 even though 1.75 is stronger in some ways and a little lighter (about 10lbs+- for a whole car).


              1.5X.120 DOM is also a little cheaper then 1.75X.095
              Last edited by 10Toes; 06-20-2013, 05:03 PM.

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                #8
                When you're building a cage you should just look at the spec required for whatever race type you want to enter, or just pick a random one if it's not for competitive use. They all have quite a large safety factor built in, so it doesn't make sense to up size on the tubing just because you think it looks too skinny or something. It's for structural reasons, not aesthetics, and it doesn't make sense to add unnecessary weight to the car.

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                  #9
                  You don't need to stick with one tube size. Lots of sactioning bodies only require 1.75 on the main hoop, etc. you can go back to 1.25 for the diaganals and windshield bar etc. get the smaller radius die. And a good notcher. Good joints are the key.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by IronFreak View Post
                    tandem drifting.










                    Coolest E30 cage build I've seen in a while: http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread...ighlight=build
                    My E30 v1.0 | v2.0 | v3.0 | My E28 |My E34 | My feedback

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Solarian View Post
                      When you're building a cage you should just look at the spec required for whatever race type you want to enter, or just pick a random one if it's not for competitive use. They all have quite a large safety factor built in, so it doesn't make sense to up size on the tubing just because you think it looks too skinny or something. It's for structural reasons, not aesthetics, and it doesn't make sense to add unnecessary weight to the car.
                      1 3/4" is lighter and just as strong as 1 1/2," and in my opinion, when all else is equal aesthetics definitely matter, although it all comes down to opinion. I work on Miata race cars all day long, where 1 1/2" tubing is a must and space is still tight, the e30 is like a Cadillac in comparison. It's all relative I suppose.
                      - '88 m54 coupe

                      <3

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                        #12
                        :( wish I could cage my beast.

                        I'm jelly



                        mtech1/2jzgte/r154/275tire
                        function>form

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                          #13
                          JD Squared Notchmaster

                          https://www.jd2.com/p-63-notchmaster.aspx

                          Coupled with the Swag Offroad

                          Notchmaster Reach Around if you want ultimate versatility in your notches.

                          http://www.swagoffroad.com/JD2-Notch...ound_p_49.html

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by obrian View Post
                            You don't need to stick with one tube size. Lots of sactioning bodies only require 1.75 on the main hoop, etc. you can go back to 1.25 for the diaganals and windshield bar etc. get the smaller radius die. And a good notcher. Good joints are the key.
                            the cage looks great but I always wondered how strong the rear shock towers are....if the shock mounts rip out how can they be expected to support the car in a rollover. I understand they have a plate welded to them to reinforce them but that still awfully thin sheet metal.

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                              #15
                              My shock towers are stitch welded in, cage is attached to the towers, floor, and rear bulk head. Don't think it's going anywhere. But most modern non drag cages are attached to the towers in most cars anyways, and it doesn't seem to be a problem. Lots of guys do use the spot right on top of the spring mount also.

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