Just picked up an E46 M3. Pictured here.
Now what do you all think would be a reasonable price for my E30, or should I just part it out to try and make money. I feel like no one would like to buy it, and plus I dont really want anyone else but me to drive it.
Here is what I wrote for a "sale" add.
Car: 1990 BMW E30 318is
M42b18 1.8L DOHC 16v 4 cylinder 140hp 136tq factory 7200rpm redline. Factory forged crankshaft . Hydraulic lifters so no need for valve adjustment. Factory adjustable cam gears intake and exhaust.
Advance or retard 5 degrees
Over 300,000k clocked before I changed clusters. Factory 5 speed manual, and 4.10 LSD. No A/C, P/S, or power anything inside. Everything is manual (windows, mirrors, seats, sunroof). Front and rear fogs. 2 door coupe apprx. 2600 lbs from factory. I have gutted the car of rear carpet, seats, front and rear door panels , trunk pieces and small stuff here and there. Still have door panels and seats. Consistently gets 29 MPG average. Loves to cruise between 100 and 130 kmh wouldn't go much faster for extended times due to the gearing. But she will top out at 200kmh due to gearing it has no top speed limiter from factory. Has made trips to Spangdalhem, Trier, Heidleberg, Bitburg, Nurburgring. No hiccups ever.
Engine: AFE cotton panel filter.
Larger intake snorkel from Honda accord.
New intake boot.
Replaced all vacuum lines, coolant lines, intake manifold/throttle body gaskets, cleaned Idle Control Valve, replaced valve cover gasket, fuel filter, lower oil pan gasket, thermostat replaced and timing chain tensioner less than 12 months ago.
8 mm BMW factory performance spark plug wires less then 12 months old. Spark plugs replaced less than 4 months ago.
Deleted throttle body heater plate/ vacuum and coolant lines associated with it. O2 sensor replaced October 2013. Down pipe back exhaust 2.5 inch with no name German spec resonator and magnaflow stainless steel sport muffler with dual 3 in DTM tips w/ factory tubular manifold(header) no cats 300 euros less than 12 months ago. Oil changes EVERY 3 months regardless of miles put on. Summer with Castrol 20w-50 and winter 10w-40 both Dino oil recommended by BMW. Last change sept 2013 w/ 10w-40. Key for engine life and reliability at higher rpms.
Suspension:
Condor speed shop solid UMWH M3 offset control arm bushings less than 12 months old. Brake pads replaced less than 12 months ago. OEM front control arms, OEM front wheel bearing/hub assemblies, OEM ate brake rotors front replaced less than 4 months ago. Front brake rotor backing plates removed. Front and rear sway bar links replaces with Meyle HD links less than 6 months ago. Meyle HD rear shock mounts with UUC rear shock mount reinforcement kit replaced less than 6 months ago. Delrin rear spring pads. Custom Eibach race springs 440lbs front 6 inch coil over spring. 600 lbs rear 5 inch coil over spring. Ground Control coil over conversion kit adjusters for ride height. Koni SA (single adjustable for rebound only) at all 4 corners. Custom refurbished front struts(57 mm struts not found on any other 4 cylinder only iS models and 325i and 325iS.) with OEM spring perch cut and replaced with Ground Control spring perch for coil over adjustability. H&R 25 mm hub centric wheel spacers rear. 5mm spacers front.
Footwork:
BBS Mahle 15 in wheels staggered offsets . Needs new rubber old Falken Azenis RTK -615s 205/50r-15
Borbet ABT 16 in with hun centric rings. wheels for winter Hankook Icebears 205/55r-16.
Motegi Racing wheels 17 in. No hub rings. Comes with " tuner lugs" needed to fit wheels. Tires are Sumitomo all seasons 215/40r-17.
BMW factory 14 in bottle caps. 2 tires need replaced old Pirelli all seasons 195/60r-14.
14 in Factory steelies.
Other: smoked rear tail lights, turn signals. Have OEM tails for inspection. Sticker bomb fender. Beat up VW golf lip. Yellow fog lights.
Radio with aux cable. M-tech 1 steering wheel with ///M clip. Brushed aluminum junk yard find shift knob. Crown royal shift boot. Heavy rubber floor mats. Analog clock. Some spare parts. Almost compete tool kit in trunk. Seats are OEM sport seats with the grey plaid. They do need to be rebuilt that's why they are swapped sides. Pioneer speakers front and rear. Homemade clutch stop stops clutch pedal as soon as clutch engages so you don't waste time pushing the pedal all the way in.
Cons:
Car was in accident, I took a turn too fast and blew thru a fence. Polizei let me drive home. From that I replaced radiator, radiator mounts, front valence, bumper, headlights, grill and kidneys, fog lights, turn signals, all lightbulbs, trunk, and driver fender and side mirrors. Because of this the roof as some damage from the chain links and hood from pole. There is rust on this car in multiple places, engine bay, under windshield on the a pillar, rear wheel well in trunk , passenger wheel well floor pan. Drivers door. I have been quoted at the Russian man for cut a welds starting at 120 euros. Chassis is still stiff and has hardly any body roll and feels very flat and stable on high speed corners because of this I rarely need to use the brakes so the pads still look new. 4th gear synchro has been out since I purchased the car but isn't a problem just don't slam it in to 4th you have to feather the throttle. Gets loud due to lack of sound deadening or interior especially on the autobahn. Fuel gauge reads half full on empty.
Things I would do if I could keep the car: ( in order of precedence)
Rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings.
Diff mount.
Trans and engine mounts.
Replace shifter bushings.
Rear brake over haul ( rotors and parking brakes.
Rebuild calipers front and rear.
Rebuild differential.
Timing chain and gears.
Rust.
Only performance I would do is solid urethane bushings for the rear and sway bars front and rear. And race seat. Car is already great.
Could be a great project car as I have seen worse and it can be taken back to the states in mid 2015. It has been a reliable daily with no more than 24 hours of downtime.(accident and blown coolant line under intake manifold.)
Now what do you all think would be a reasonable price for my E30, or should I just part it out to try and make money. I feel like no one would like to buy it, and plus I dont really want anyone else but me to drive it.
Here is what I wrote for a "sale" add.
Car: 1990 BMW E30 318is
M42b18 1.8L DOHC 16v 4 cylinder 140hp 136tq factory 7200rpm redline. Factory forged crankshaft . Hydraulic lifters so no need for valve adjustment. Factory adjustable cam gears intake and exhaust.
Advance or retard 5 degrees
Over 300,000k clocked before I changed clusters. Factory 5 speed manual, and 4.10 LSD. No A/C, P/S, or power anything inside. Everything is manual (windows, mirrors, seats, sunroof). Front and rear fogs. 2 door coupe apprx. 2600 lbs from factory. I have gutted the car of rear carpet, seats, front and rear door panels , trunk pieces and small stuff here and there. Still have door panels and seats. Consistently gets 29 MPG average. Loves to cruise between 100 and 130 kmh wouldn't go much faster for extended times due to the gearing. But she will top out at 200kmh due to gearing it has no top speed limiter from factory. Has made trips to Spangdalhem, Trier, Heidleberg, Bitburg, Nurburgring. No hiccups ever.
Engine: AFE cotton panel filter.
Larger intake snorkel from Honda accord.
New intake boot.
Replaced all vacuum lines, coolant lines, intake manifold/throttle body gaskets, cleaned Idle Control Valve, replaced valve cover gasket, fuel filter, lower oil pan gasket, thermostat replaced and timing chain tensioner less than 12 months ago.
8 mm BMW factory performance spark plug wires less then 12 months old. Spark plugs replaced less than 4 months ago.
Deleted throttle body heater plate/ vacuum and coolant lines associated with it. O2 sensor replaced October 2013. Down pipe back exhaust 2.5 inch with no name German spec resonator and magnaflow stainless steel sport muffler with dual 3 in DTM tips w/ factory tubular manifold(header) no cats 300 euros less than 12 months ago. Oil changes EVERY 3 months regardless of miles put on. Summer with Castrol 20w-50 and winter 10w-40 both Dino oil recommended by BMW. Last change sept 2013 w/ 10w-40. Key for engine life and reliability at higher rpms.
Suspension:
Condor speed shop solid UMWH M3 offset control arm bushings less than 12 months old. Brake pads replaced less than 12 months ago. OEM front control arms, OEM front wheel bearing/hub assemblies, OEM ate brake rotors front replaced less than 4 months ago. Front brake rotor backing plates removed. Front and rear sway bar links replaces with Meyle HD links less than 6 months ago. Meyle HD rear shock mounts with UUC rear shock mount reinforcement kit replaced less than 6 months ago. Delrin rear spring pads. Custom Eibach race springs 440lbs front 6 inch coil over spring. 600 lbs rear 5 inch coil over spring. Ground Control coil over conversion kit adjusters for ride height. Koni SA (single adjustable for rebound only) at all 4 corners. Custom refurbished front struts(57 mm struts not found on any other 4 cylinder only iS models and 325i and 325iS.) with OEM spring perch cut and replaced with Ground Control spring perch for coil over adjustability. H&R 25 mm hub centric wheel spacers rear. 5mm spacers front.
Footwork:
BBS Mahle 15 in wheels staggered offsets . Needs new rubber old Falken Azenis RTK -615s 205/50r-15
Borbet ABT 16 in with hun centric rings. wheels for winter Hankook Icebears 205/55r-16.
Motegi Racing wheels 17 in. No hub rings. Comes with " tuner lugs" needed to fit wheels. Tires are Sumitomo all seasons 215/40r-17.
BMW factory 14 in bottle caps. 2 tires need replaced old Pirelli all seasons 195/60r-14.
14 in Factory steelies.
Other: smoked rear tail lights, turn signals. Have OEM tails for inspection. Sticker bomb fender. Beat up VW golf lip. Yellow fog lights.
Radio with aux cable. M-tech 1 steering wheel with ///M clip. Brushed aluminum junk yard find shift knob. Crown royal shift boot. Heavy rubber floor mats. Analog clock. Some spare parts. Almost compete tool kit in trunk. Seats are OEM sport seats with the grey plaid. They do need to be rebuilt that's why they are swapped sides. Pioneer speakers front and rear. Homemade clutch stop stops clutch pedal as soon as clutch engages so you don't waste time pushing the pedal all the way in.
Cons:
Car was in accident, I took a turn too fast and blew thru a fence. Polizei let me drive home. From that I replaced radiator, radiator mounts, front valence, bumper, headlights, grill and kidneys, fog lights, turn signals, all lightbulbs, trunk, and driver fender and side mirrors. Because of this the roof as some damage from the chain links and hood from pole. There is rust on this car in multiple places, engine bay, under windshield on the a pillar, rear wheel well in trunk , passenger wheel well floor pan. Drivers door. I have been quoted at the Russian man for cut a welds starting at 120 euros. Chassis is still stiff and has hardly any body roll and feels very flat and stable on high speed corners because of this I rarely need to use the brakes so the pads still look new. 4th gear synchro has been out since I purchased the car but isn't a problem just don't slam it in to 4th you have to feather the throttle. Gets loud due to lack of sound deadening or interior especially on the autobahn. Fuel gauge reads half full on empty.
Things I would do if I could keep the car: ( in order of precedence)
Rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings.
Diff mount.
Trans and engine mounts.
Replace shifter bushings.
Rear brake over haul ( rotors and parking brakes.
Rebuild calipers front and rear.
Rebuild differential.
Timing chain and gears.
Rust.
Only performance I would do is solid urethane bushings for the rear and sway bars front and rear. And race seat. Car is already great.
Could be a great project car as I have seen worse and it can be taken back to the states in mid 2015. It has been a reliable daily with no more than 24 hours of downtime.(accident and blown coolant line under intake manifold.)
Comment