Shoddy work from local big box store mechanic
Collapse
X
-
furthermore, this is just another opportunity to toot my own horn with the wife to further reinforce that my 27 year old BMW has never let me\us down, and it has 3 times the mileage :-PLeave a comment:
-
bought the car used, and the cable was certainly not like that previously.
it's a brand new cable, and I would be hard pressed to imagine a fully equipped mechanic would not have a proper crimper.
it's typically connected with a heavy gauged ring terminal along side the battery post.
this is just mashed stranded wire being held on with a old dirty bolt.Leave a comment:
-
This is what I'm wondering. If you bought the car used, maybe the cable was like that from the previous owner? How should it be connected normally, a ring terminal on one of the bolts?
I will say my mom has a 2000 Focus and that thing would not keep the battery cables clean. After several cleanings, I realized the corrosion was so bad and thick, there was almost no metal exposed. I had to use a dremel and sanding drum to remove all of it. Wire brush wouldn't touch it. Liberal amount of dielectric grease and it has been good since.Leave a comment:
-
They did a horrible job. They probably did not have any connectors or a crimper for that heavy gauge wire.Leave a comment:
-
Shoddy work from local big box store mechanic
Reason why it needed a new cable is because over the summer I replaced the clutch in the car, and had a b*tch of a time getting the starter back on once I was buttoning up the car...ended up cross threading the starter bolts and stripping a couple of nuts, and in the process damaged the wire but was still useable.
So just opted to get a new wire while the starter was being replaced
So, that being said-since the starter is a pivotal item in electrical distribution, would it be cause for intermittences in starting success? And shuddering at speed?
I suspect that this might of shorted out some ignition components...Ford offers a replacement pigtail that connects from the ignition/maf that's an easy fix. Kind of want to rule out other stuff first....car isn't showing any codes or cel.
Alternator tested at 14.3v so that's within spec (tested with volt meter, not load tested)Last edited by Mr. Burns; 01-16-2014, 04:33 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Not sure why needing a new start requires a new cable also???
The starter is one of the most electrically demanding circuits in the car. If the connection is dirty, unsecure, or poor, it will affect starting.Leave a comment:
-
I'm not recording anything and going full out R3V troll machine...
I'm contacting the garage tomorrow and will alert them of their performance.
I'm going to give them te change to fix the issue before anything.
It's just a car, there are much worse issues in the world, I'm not going to make this one into a headache.Leave a comment:
-
-
and record itWow what a piece of shit. I would take the car directly to said mechanic, pop the hood while standing right next to him and see what he has to say. Most people that do shit work like this have ridiculous excuses or refuse to take responsibility for sucking at life so badlyLeave a comment:
-
If that is indeed a "big box" chain Id be sending that pic to the home office. Ive seen some hack work but that is crazyLeave a comment:
-
The starter spinning and not engaging sounds like either a bad solenoid not allowing the gear to pop out or just a crappy install that improperly aligned the head of the starter to the flywheel.Leave a comment:
-
-
Wow what a piece of shit. I would take the car directly to said mechanic, pop the hood while standing right next to him and see what he has to say. Most people that do shit work like this have ridiculous excuses or refuse to take responsibility for sucking at life so badlyLeave a comment:

Leave a comment: