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    Please help!! Fix recommendations please:)

    Bring my car back to its former glory.
    I took my 1985 325e to a car mechanic and asked him to find everything wrong with the car. I need to know what is needed immediately, soon, and when I have money for it. I can do a lot of the work with my step father as he owns a car shop and has done a lot of work before. If you know the cost of parts for something that would be awesome. So here is the red list.

    Things I think can wait
    Ac condenser is missing...
    Heater fan is noisey.
    Power antenna is seized
    Washed bottle and and motor are missing...??
    Passenger window doesn't roll up the last .1"
    Left door handle is loose
    Hood does not latch (zip ties for the win)
    Shifter housing is worn out
    Power steering doesn't work
    Wiring up front is partially cracked
    Muffler is rusted and leaks

    And now for the fun list more immediate repairs
    Odometer speedometer and temperature gauges inoperable
    Air box mounts are broken
    Altitude sensor is broken
    Valve cover gasket leaks oil
    Shifter housing bushing is missing....
    Shift shaft and output shaft leak transmission oil
    Engine oil pan cracked
    Oil pressure switch leaks oil
    Cylinder head leaks oil externally
    Lower radiator hose leaks coolant
    Front and rear control arm bushings cracked

    That's it just a small list of minor flaws :(
    And guesses as far as cost of fixing individual or all of these would be helpful. I could get he purchase price back and sell it without a problem so i want to know is it worth it or should I save this headache and by a better e30 or other bmw

    #2
    Sounds like you bought yourself an old car with old car problems. Congrats bro
    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      I'd just drive it and enjoy it, it's an old car.
      ///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)

      Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.

      Comment


        #4
        Sounds like it needs a complete overhaul, and since it's an ETA (read undesirable) no reasonable person would fix all that needs fixing. If you can you ought to resell it or just part out the three things that are still good.
        Last edited by roguetoaster; 10-11-2014, 07:11 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
          sounds like it needs a complete overhaul, and since it's an eta (read undesirable) no reasonable would fix all that needs fixing. If you can you ought to resell it or just part out the three things that are still good.
          +1
          Originally posted by csermonet47
          Vlad, you are handling this quite unprofessionally.

          Also, you are a cock with tacky taste.

          That is all.

          Comment


            #6
            Just buy yourself and I engine and build a 2.7i on a stand, with all new parts and etc. Then swap the engines and you will have a fun, reliable ride with no problems. Then just step by step fix all the cosmetic, interior, and other issues.

            Comment


              #7
              all pretty minor stuff. since its an eta, I'd build the motor into a 2.7i and just fix the other little things as I go.

              Comment


                #8
                Yikes, that's a lot of work. You could easily buy another, better E30 for the amount you would spend fixing all that.
                Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                Elva Courier build thread here!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I don't understand the dislike of the eta. I think they are fun to drive with the low end torque, especially around town. Not to bad at highway speeds either. ....once you get there.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hey guys thanks for the good feedback. That being said I think an engine swap is a little further down the road for me. I am thinking that doing all my own work I should be able to get things up and running for not too much. To drives and feels good for now.
                    So back to the second part of the question does anyone have cost estimates for the parts I need. Used in gold condition pricing or new. I don't mind putting elbow grease into it. I will enjoy working on it. It isn't my DD so if it's apart for a week that's fine.
                    Thanks


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sascha; this is the part where you do the homework, we dislike giving you everything as a new car enthusiast but, to minimize your search, I will tell you this...

                      Get very comfortable with realOEM.com and a Bently repair manual, you have a lot of work ahead but that's the fun part, right?

                      Vendors like Guten Parts + Service, Blunttech, Garagistic, Pelican, BMA, etc, etc, etc., will have the part you need once you figure out parts #s and prices.

                      Good luck with the new toy and welcome aboard.
                      @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Man it sounds like you all are trying to talk this guy out of saving an e30. Yea it is a lot of work but in the end you will have a great car. Good luck man.
                        Current
                        99 328i (Sold)
                        91 318is M50B25TU
                        89 325ix (Parted out)
                        87 325is (Parted out)
                        95 525i (Parted Motor for 91 318is)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well, it's your money and time to use. I'd figure that you have around $300 to spend on the parts that might be bought used and maybe 400-1500+ worth of new parts depending on how much of the "while you are in there" stuff gets fixed.

                          I'd still suggest not investing in a car you don't plan to keep for a long time.

                          Have any pictures of the car to add to this thread?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Sascha View Post
                            Ac condenser is missing...

                            If you don't care about having AC, don't bother. If you want AC, expect to spend several hundred getting it working. A condenser can be had from a junkyard, but then you will need to have the system vacuumed and re-filled. You might bet lucky and nothing else is wrong, but the compressor could be bad, or various pressure switches could be bad.


                            Heater fan is noisey.

                            Somewhat of a pain in the ass job, but it's just a matter of swapping a new one in. They are rather spendy though, $2-300. RockAuto sells one for $170.

                            Power antenna is seized

                            This could either be a bad mast or a bad motor. You can buy just the mast, but the easier solution would be to replace the whole unit with a good used one. Even cheaper would be to replace it with a generic non-motorized antenna.

                            Washed bottle and and motor are missing...??

                            Snag these from a junkyard. Not worth buying new.

                            Passenger window doesn't roll up the last .1"

                            Not sure about this one. I think there is an adjustment for the stop, but I've never messed with it.

                            Left door handle is loose

                            Inside or outside? Outside is just two screws under the handle. Inside is two screws under the arm res and a clip up at the top.

                            Hood does not latch (zip ties for the win)

                            The cables can get sticky and will not allow the latch to fully retract. I'd start by pulling the cable apart and cleaning/lubing it. Pull the latch out and clean/lube it as well.

                            Shifter housing is worn out

                            There are several bushings/washers in the shifter that wear over time and give you a sloppy shifter. It's as easy as pulling everything apart and replacing all the worn bits. Check out RealOEM.com for an exploded diagram. Search and you will find several threads on this exact topic as well.

                            Power steering doesn't work

                            Either you have a bad pump, a bad rack, a severe leak or all of the above. A used pump from a junkyard is an option or a new one can be had for under $100. A new rack is more expensive (several hundred). I would suggest upgrading to an E36 rack if you end up replacing it. Search for more info on this. A used one from a junkyard should be easy to find.

                            Wiring up front is partially cracked

                            This is easy. Cut out any wiring that has broken insulation and replace with new wire. I like to use uninsulated butt connectors and shrink tubing. The re-wrap all the wires with tape.

                            Muffler is rusted and leaks

                            Have a shop weld on a new one. Should be more than $2-300 tops, maybe less.

                            Odometer speedometer and temperature gauges inoperable

                            Odo/speedo could be the sensor in the diff. The wiring gets brittle and cracks. Start there. The odo could also have broken gears. There are a few places that sell new ones. Then you just have to pull it apart and replace them. If all that doesn't fix it, you need a new gauge. Temp gauge could be as simple as a bad sensor (under $20), the ground nuts on the back of the gauge might be loose or the gauge is bad.

                            One thing worth mentioning, there were two different clusters, early and late. Here is info on what parts will swap around:

                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...05&postcount=6


                            Air box mounts are broken

                            If the air box itself is broken, just get a used one from the junkyard. If the sheet metal it attaches to is broken, a new (used) bracket will need to be welded on. You could change to a cone filter, but you would want to build a heat shield to keep it away fro the engine and it won't be any better than stock, so it really isn't worth it.

                            Altitude sensor is broken

                            Get one from the junkyard. These only came on early ETAs. A new one is ~$200.

                            Valve cover gasket leaks oil

                            Buy a new gasket and replace. Probably want to do a valve adjustment while you have the cover off. Also might want to paint the cover too.

                            Shifter housing bushing is missing....

                            See above. Rebuild the shifter.

                            Shift shaft and output shaft leak transmission oil

                            This is just a matter of pulling the shifter apart, popping the old seal out and pushing the new one in. Output shaft is basically the same, you just need to remove the driveshaft and output flange on the end of the transmission. Seals are cheap.

                            Engine oil pan cracked

                            You need a new oil pan. I'd get a used one. Don't forget a new gasket.

                            Oil pressure switch leaks oil

                            Try tightening the switch. If that doesn't work, replace it. They are under $10.

                            Cylinder head leaks oil externally

                            Depending on where it is leaking and how much it is leaking, this could either be a learn-to-live-with-it thing or you will need to replace the head gasket, or possible cam seals. I'd start by replacing the valve cover gasket, clean the engine up really well and watch for where the oil is leaking from. M20's are notorious for leaking from the front of the motor around the dowel hole in the head and are very hard to get to seal properly. It is generally a small leak though, so most don't worry about it.

                            Lower radiator hose leaks coolant

                            Start by tightening the clamp and see if that fixes it. Inspect the hose(s) and look for cracks/tears. New hoses are ~$10 each, so replacing them is probably a good idea anyway.

                            Front and rear control arm bushings cracked

                            Front - There is a bushing at the back of the arm nicknamed the lollipop that is likely what is bad. They are about $25 each, or you can upgrade to stiffer poly ones or offset one for more caster. Search and read up on this.

                            The ball joints in the arms might also be shot which means you will need new control arms. You can replace just the joints and reuse the arm, but it's much easier and not much more expensive to just replace it all. New control arms are ~$100 each. I recommend getting Lemfoerder brand arms, they are worth the slightly extra expense.

                            Rear - Rear is fairly cheap, but labor intensive. The rear subframe has to be dropped to replace the trailing arm bushings and it is often times corroded into place. Replace the subframe bushing while you are at it and consider welding in adjusters to the subframe while it is out. Subframe bushings are ~$20 each (need 2), trailing arm bushings are ~$20 a pair (need 2 pair).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              ^holy shit! looks like you spent a lot of time thinking about that one.

                              here is the answer:

                              go spend 3 grand on a decent car and use this one for parts.

                              assuming you are not paying out for labor, you have now saved yourself 2k of the 5k it will cost you to fix the turd burgler you have presently.

                              if you do have to pay for labor, you just saved yourself 15k of the 18k you will spend fixing the junker you have now.


                              the truth is that so many people buy the cheapest car they can get their hands on thinking its a good deal. generally, the reality is that saving money on the front end turns out to be a horrible long term investment. in cases such as yours, you are going to spend 2-3x more fixing everything that is wrong with this one than you would have spent to just buy a decent fairly well maintained example to begin with. i promise you will spend more fixing this car than than you will be able to sell it for when it becomes a reliable driver. i am not trying to be a debbie downer, but i promise you that this will be the case here. i suppose on the plus side, this will be a good way for you to learn auto mechanics and it will help you become a self sufficient person in the future. this in itself has value, but you are going to be way better off just buying another car.
                              /thread.
                              Last edited by flyboyx; 10-11-2014, 08:58 AM.
                              sigpic
                              Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

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