Ok boys...the R3v way or the right way? :)

[Brew]

Nope, the spacer goes behind the flywheel. If you forget it, you might not be able to properly torque the flywheel bolts. If you put it in between, you'll have all sorts of issues, including starter and clutch engagement.

Also, not sure if you super eta guys have crank position sensors on the flywheel, but either way don't forget that dowel.

[modifiede30]

4. There's a strange rattle that wasn't there before when the car is idling in neutral and the clutch is out. As soon as you push the clutch in, it stops. I followed the clutch and tranny install to the letter, so I can't imagine there being a problem, but it's the only logical explanation. I used all new parts - release bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch, flywheel and pressure plate bolts, greased everything as instructed and torqued the flywheel bolts to the proper specs. It scared the hell out of me when I first heard it - thought there was something wrong with my bottom end!

The above sounds like a bad throw-out bearing or it wasn't installed properly. Either that, or there is some compatability problem with the tranny and flywheel combo. What flywheel is the car from, and what tranny?

[Julien]

not to steal the thread... but about that spacer.

I am in the middle of doing a automatic to 5 speed swap. I noticed that spacer but decided against using it as the 5 speed f/w is much thicker than the automatic starter gear. also. the dowel (more like a brass fitting that you can put a bolt through) that is in one of the 8 flywheel bolts woulnd't even touch the flywheel makinng the larger hole in the f/w useless..


Let me know
Julien

about the T/O.. IMHO the T/O is only bad when the clutch pedal vibrates. If its only noise than it's the tranny input bearing.

[modifiede30]

not to steal the thread... but about that spacer.

I am in the middle of doing a automatic to 5 speed swap. I noticed that spacer but decided against using it as the 5 speed f/w is much thicker than the automatic starter gear. also. the dowel (more like a brass fitting that you can put a bolt through) that is in one of the 8 flywheel bolts woulnd't even touch the flywheel makinng the larger hole in the f/w useless..


Let me know
Julien

about the T/O.. IMHO the T/O is only bad when the clutch pedal vibrates. If its only noise than it's the tranny input bearing.

I've had 2 go on me without any noticed vibration in the pedal. Finally switched to a metal one and all was well (Sachs used ABS on parts of their performance T/O that have problems with certain greases).

[Bimmerfanatik]

I've had 2 go on me without any noticed vibration in the pedal. Finally switched to a metal one and all was well (Sachs used ABS on parts of their performance T/O that have problems with certain greases).

I wonder if that's what I'm facing. The TO bearing is the bearing on the input shaft of the tranny, correct? I really don't want to go in and change it so hopefully it'll last until the fall.

Brew, that spacer was on the outside of my 87 325i - it was a thin metal ring with the 6 (or 8?) holes for the flywheel bolts. That was where I put it on the new tranny, and haven't had a problem since. Flywheel bolts torqued properly, and no starter or clutch issues.

The flywheel and tranny were from the same car, the 87 vert, as was the new clutch and pressure plate. I installed everything by the book, so I can't imagine what went wrong. It's just an annoyance right now, so I'm not going to lose any sleep...

in other news....stroker is still rocking my world with boatloads of torque from one end of the tach to the other... :)

[FredK]

Engine hoist rental, engine swap $70

Man, you could have almost bought a hoist at this rate! :D

Not really, since a hoist costs $150, but if you're gonna pull the engine again anyway to install a new bottom end, you're gonna have to hoof it to the equipment rental place again. :mrgreen:

Congratulations on your successful rebuild. It's always a nice feeling to get a car rolling again after being up on blocks for a while.