In search of LS1 swap

[rzerob]

Its hard to find a decent LS for a decent deal, my buddy has been looking for an L33 or LM4 for a month or 2 now and hasn't found a decent deal yet. Probably gonna have to do a Cleveland pick a part or something like that.

LS1 in F bodies (camaro/firebird transam) and Y bodies (corvette) are kinda overrated, the original LS1 blocks can't be bored over any more than a clean up pass, so no boring without resorting to sleeving the block.
LS2 if you can swing it, but the L33 can make 400 hp with some work. The L33 is a 5.3L/327 that has the LS6/LS2 "casting 243" heads on it, so it can flow well but is choked by the truck cam.
The Corvette and GTO versions of LS1 are better than the F body version, slightly, they have the LS6 throttle body and Intake.
Beware that the Y body has a weird ass oil pan on it and most of the acessories probably won't work. I can see if they work once my buddy gets an actual engine anf gets it in his car...

THe trans you can use an F body t56 98-02 (LT1 version t56 is different and needs some parts swapped to work but can be done) or a GTO t56 also works but it needs F body shifter. The Caddy CTSV has a super weird shifter set up and uses a guibo rather like a BMW, but I don't think anybody uses those.
Y body t56 has COMPLETELY different case ends and mainshaft so you'd need a grand or more in parts to change it to work as an f body, so unless you get a corvette trans for free, I'd pass. They make good internal parts donors for F body trans as they have different (better) triple cone carbon synchros.

Thank you this is a lot of useful and helpful information. I planned on buying a magnum T56 unless I found a deal with engine trans combo. I am searching auctions now for power trains. I am disappointed to find out you can't really bore out a LS1 unless I sleeve it.

[DER E30]

Its hard to find a decent LS for a decent deal, my buddy has been looking for an L33 or LM4 for a month or 2 now and hasn't found a decent deal yet. Probably gonna have to do a Cleveland pick a part or something like that.

LS1 in F bodies (camaro/firebird transam) and Y bodies (corvette) are kinda overrated, the original LS1 blocks can't be bored over any more than a clean up pass, so no boring without resorting to sleeving the block.
LS2 if you can swing it, but the L33 can make 400 hp with some work. The L33 is a 5.3L/327 that has the LS6/LS2 "casting 243" heads on it, so it can flow well but is choked by the truck cam.
The Corvette and GTO versions of LS1 are better than the F body version, slightly, they have the LS6 throttle body and Intake.
Beware that the Y body has a weird ass oil pan on it and most of the acessories probably won't work. I can see if they work once my buddy gets an actual engine anf gets it in his car...

THe trans you can use an F body t56 98-02 (LT1 version t56 is different and needs some parts swapped to work but can be done) or a GTO t56 also works but it needs F body shifter. The Caddy CTSV has a super weird shifter set up and uses a guibo rather like a BMW, but I don't think anybody uses those.
Y body t56 has COMPLETELY different case ends and mainshaft so you'd need a grand or more in parts to change it to work as an f body, so unless you get a corvette trans for free, I'd pass. They make good internal parts donors for F body trans as they have different (better) triple cone carbon synchros.

[325isdan]

I'm not against VVTi, I was just thinking about how difficult the install would be. And you do know that pushrods also have VVTi, right?

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a 2j fits no problem. my brother has one in his 89

[marshallnoise]

boo vanos, yay pooshrods?

I'm not against VVTi, I was just thinking about how difficult the install would be. And you do know that pushrods also have VVTi, right?

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[gazellebeigem3]

Vanos....boo.

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boo vanos, yay pooshrods?

[marshallnoise]

I guess I have trepidation over vanos like I would for Lexus's VVTi. Lexus uses many more sensors just to get the thing to work.

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[flyboyx]

^an s62 has vanos. would you kick that engine out of your bed? i only see it as a little bit more wiring work. as long as you get the original dme, its still plug and play. for that matter, an m50, m52, s50, s52, s54, and every other modern bmw engine has it too.

[marshallnoise]

2002-03 x5 came with a 4.6 liter m62 that was about 350hp. just sayin.......

Vanos....boo.

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[flyboyx]

2002-03 x5 came with a 4.6 liter m62 that was about 350hp. just sayin.......

[Heitzke]

Have you looked at copart? Look for pure sale auctions, and/or ones that have 'start guarantees' or that 'lot run'. Depending on the state, you may or may not need a license to purchase salvaged vehicles.

Your pool is also pretty limited with the drivetrain package you need from a t/a, camaro, gto. Finding a motor/trans package in a running car is about the only guarantee you'll be able to find.

Budget-wise, i have to second/third/forth the sentiment that a 5.3 is the way to go. Ported LS6 heads (or hell, even drop on) and a baby cam, and you won't miss any of the displacement.

[rzerob]

Thank you to everyone for the advice. Most of the engines I am finding that seem to be what I am looking for are 6hrs+ one way so I am not physically there to inspect the power train. If I do happen to find one within a reasonable driving distance I will take flyboys advice in the checking of the engine.

I have been burned before and I know quite a few other people who have been burned because they put trust in someone they didn't know. So I am hesitant in pulling the trigger when I think I find a good deal.

That is mainly why I posted in here for advice on where to purchase a power train. Hoping that a fellow member had a good experience with a company or personally knew someone who did. And if they could give me a phone number, email address or website I could expand my search.

[lukeADE335i]

A couple of weeks ago I was looking at a 60K 2003 Corvette powertrain everything minus the transmission for $3200. The engine was already out so I couldn't hear it run and they basically said it ran great before it was pulled but would not offer me at minimum a start up warranty.

I am not asking for the moon but if I am spending the money I wanted some kind of assurance I was getting what I paid for.

That motor sounds a good buy - people are too paranoid these days. Just buy the thing - or save the pennies and buy a new crate motor with warranty.

If you're swapping it in to something that wasn't originally an LS1, I wouldn't give you a warranty on a used engine either - I'd have no idea what you're going to do with the cooling system etc. that might screw up the motor and then try to blame the seller for selling you a 'dud'.

[djjerme]

The LSx motors are fairly cheap around here. Like I said, my Saab 9-7x has the first version of the all aluminum 5.3. It also had that dreaded cylinder deactivation.

I picked it up at auction with a collapsed lifter and 110k. After pulling the heads and throwing in New lifters and the updated LOMA, used a tuner to defeat the cylinder deactivation and firm up the shifts. Runs great now..

If the motor ever goes, I'll swap it out for a 6.0 (these did come factory with them starting in '07.)



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[Q8y_drifter]

I don't quite understand your fixation with the LS1. They're all the same architecture and almost everything is swappable between them. It really doesn't matter that much unless you have a specific goal in mind that warrants a specific engine (i.e must be iron block for reliable boost).
5.7 LS1s are the cheapest LS-based engines over here (we have a shit ton of 2000-2006 Chevy caprices here) which is why I went with it. A 4.8/5.3 vortec would've been double the price.

[flyboyx]

i hate to offer advice on a sellout engine swap, but here is all you have to do:

1) spin the crank shaft over with a wrench. feel the compression on all cylinders. if it feels good, go to step 2 below.

2) roll it upside down or on its side and take off the oil pan. see what it looks like inside. if its full of sludge and gook, pass on that one. if it looks clean and has had regular oil changes, take a look at the cylinders from the bottom and see if you can see scoring or wear. pull off the thrust bearing cap and see what the shell looks like. if it looks good, buy the engine and stop being such a waffles.