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Convince me to buy this 1987 325si

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    #31
    Originally posted by kronus View Post
    not a check engine light, a check light. only way it won't come back is if all the check panel lights get fixed and turned off.

    if the car is as poorly maintained as it sounds, it's probably leaking water out of the pump. make sure that is part of your replacement kit.
    Thanks, fixed. At least I got it right the second time, but am trying to reel stuff off the top of my head.

    The car was in rough shape when the previous owner got it, but I think he brought it a fair way. I don't know him really well, but I feel like he cared about it and he's offered to come over and help me with it if I want. I don't think they wanted to let it go.

    As to the pump, everyone's telling me to replace it. I had this sitting in my cart:



    But hadn't pull the trigger yet. Might as well just order it and put it in. It will need it eventually. Normally I wouldn't go the kit route, but considering I really have no idea where the car is at maintenance wise, I'd rather be safe than get stuck in the middle of a project without the part I need.

    If anyone's in the upper midwest and wants to stop by to help, there's beer.

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      #32
      Is this still a thing? For fucks sake

      Search the world's information, including webpages, images, videos and more. Google has many special features to help you find exactly what you're looking for.


      okay so.. after you've googled a million times and learned all there is to know

      basically all you need for a water pump kit is a water pump kit and a timing belt kit together. Because you have to swap out the TB to do the WP.

      so you need:
      timing belt
      timing belt tensioner (the new kind.. research this)
      tensioner spring
      tensioner guide pin

      cam seal if you wanna do that
      distributor cap and rotor if you wanna do those (you do)

      water pump (metal impeller)
      water pump seal (scrape off the old with a razor blade)

      I suppose you could replace the rest of the cooling system while you're at it. It's not that hard. Just get the hoses you need and:

      thermostat (lowest temp you can find)
      t-stat o-ring
      t-stat housing gasket


      I bought the bavauto kit which came with more than I needed. You basically just wanna buy a kit because they will generally find all the shit you need for you. But take a look in your car and double check that it all looks good before tearing it apart and replacing everything. You only wanna bleed the cooling system once...


      it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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        #33
        [QUOTE=Das Delfin;4674797]Is this still a thing? For fucks sake

        thermostat (lowest temp you can find)
        t-stat o-ring
        t-stat housing gasket

        QUOTE]

        you may want to stick with the stock temp thermostat unless you want to run rich :)

        Comment


          #34
          Please explain to me why you think a higher block temperature would cause the computer to put more fuel through the injectors?


          it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

          Comment


            #35
            "The primary function of a thermostat is to maintain a minimum operating temperature in your car's engine. When you start your engine cold, the antifreeze / coolant mixture is kept within the engine by the thermostat. When the coolant temperature reaches the specified opening point of the thermostat, it opens. Coolant will then flow through the radiator to keep the engine at a temperature close to the rated temperature of the thermostat.

            Most of today's cars and trucks are designed to operate with a 195* F thermostat. If a lower temperature thermostat has been installed, it will affect several systems in your car. A vehicle with a computer controlled carburetor or fuel injection will sense the lower temperature and compensate by making the engine run richer, causing excessive fuel consumption and possibly a high idle. A lower temperature thermostat will also decrease the amount of heat available to keep you warm and defrost your windshield.

            Then again, if your thermostat is stuck partially or completely open, you will have the same symptoms as an incorrect thermostat. Unfortunately, a thermostat that is stuck only slightly open will cause double trouble. It will make the engine take much longer to warm up, but may not allow enough coolant to flow at high speed to keep the engine cool and might cause an overheating condition.

            A thermostat can last many years but it might be a good idea to have it replaced the next time your cooling system is being serviced as a preventive maintenance procedure. Also, remember that most manufacturers recommend a cooling system reverse Flush and refill every two years."

            Comment


              #36
              I thought there was an 82C and an 80C t-stat but apparently not. There is only an 80C t-stat. Must be a prior Mercedes service bulletin I was thinking of. Either way 80C is about 20 degrees below 195F. The Motronic system is designed to run between 80C-100C. Also..."todays cars" ? Our cars aren't modern by any stretch of the imagination.

              I have the 80C in mine and even through new england winters with ice on the windshield at -5 derees out and a windchill in the negative teens didn't have a problem warming up my car or keeping it warm. My car is a convertible.
              Last edited by Das Delfin; 08-21-2016, 12:41 PM.


              it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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