1988 325 engine build options?

[SkiFree]

Its extremely frustrating because all the tuning companies that make parts or chips or what have you, say its either for the i engine, or the eta engine, but I have no idea what will or wont fit my car.

To be a bit blunt, their job isn't to educate you on what fits, that is up to you to pop open your valve cover and take a look inside.

Both your quotes from earlier are true. Assuming you are correct in that you you have a seta "885" head, it varies in a few ways from the true m20b25 885 head. Namely the cam, oiling holes, and springs.

Sticking to my original parts list would save you a lot of time and trouble while you are still a student.

[threadediron]

I just got finished with the 2.7i conversion a couple weeks ago, with a Super ETA engine. Its probably the most economical choice for you at the moment, and it does give your car a big boost in power compared to stock. I myself am a college student (from Jersey too!) on a limited budget, so I chose to do the 2.7i conversion. And I did the work myself.


I'll break down to you my costs, just to give you an overlook of the price of parts before shop labor

Much appreciated my friend. Just to clarify, you built the same exact engine I have?

And out of curiosity, have you had it dyno-ed after you built your engine? Im just curious how much of a gain you think you got out of it.

EDIT: I also saw you said you did the work yourself, how did you manage to get this done while attending school? Im guessing you are a commuter student and so you didnt have to work in the schools parking lot hahaha
Approx. how long did swapping all these parts take?
Thanks again for the help, I do appreciate it.

[threadediron]

just to clarify you already have the "I" cam and dual springs?!?? or just the regular 127 hp SETA engine and want to build it up?!?!?

Im unsure of this myself.

I found this through research

"1988
In order to meet federal emissions standards in it's final year of production, the '88 325 receives a 325i cylinder head, exhaust system, and engine management control with self-diagnostic capabilities (Motronic 1.1) as well as special pistons, (lowering compression slightly to 8.8:1), a slightly larger intake manifold and a revised valve cover. These changes bump up the eta's power rating slightly (to 127) and a 6000 RPM tachometer is fitted."

and

"6.) What about the 88 325/528e "Super Eta"? I hear those are better for the conversion than the 84-87 etas.

That's true because the '88 325's and 528e's already have the 325i cylinder head (though it retains the eta cam and single valve springs), Motronic 1.1, and pistons that will work without any modification. Saves some time and money. "

So, this is the engine I have, I have no idea which it is. I think its the M20B27 motor, but again, Im unsure.

Its extremely frustrating because all the tuning companies that make parts or chips or what have you, say its either for the i engine, or the eta engine, but I have no idea what will or wont fit my car.

[illmaticD]

I just got finished with the 2.7i conversion a couple weeks ago, with a Super ETA engine. Its probably the most economical choice for you at the moment, and it does give your car a big boost in power compared to stock. I myself am a college student (from Jersey too!) on a limited budget, so I chose to do the 2.7i conversion. And I did the work myself.


I'll break down to you my costs, just to give you an overlook of the price of parts before shop labor:


-$325 for Cylinder head Resurfacing, pressure testing, and 6 exhaust valve guides. Done by Automotive Machining Inc in Hillside, NJ. No need for drilling extra oil passages. You already have the 7 needed in your head.
-Lapped the valves myself for about $18

-Elring head gasket set from ECS Tuning, which includes all the gaskets you will need after dismantling the head: $80

I had a spare M20B25 engine so I already had the top end parts needed for the swap. But for you, I estimate around $200-350 for the following USED parts:

-325i intake plenum w/throttle body
-325i cam
-Dual Valve Springs
-173 or 380 ecu
-3.0 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator

-You'll need new coolant ($40 for 2 gallons from BMW), and oil/filter ($30-40)

-Timing belt w/ tensioner: $53

-Water Pump: $40

-New Head Bolts: $29 for Geniune BMW bolts

-SSSquid Tuning 2.7i Chip: $200

-Refurbished m20 injectors: $40 (unless you wanna go the junkyard route)

****All of this totals around $1200**** This doesn't factor the cost for things you should get/change, including:

-NEW rocker arms, springs
-new radiator hoses
-3.73 LSD


With that being said, there's S50 e36 m3 motor on craigslist in our area for $1300!!

[djjerme]

Are diffs for these cars basically plug n play? Ive been thinking about swapping in an LSD... Its not a bad idea considering it will give me that "seat of the pants pull" as you so eloquently said hahaha

Somewhat. There is a small and medium case, but you can visual tell the difference. You would have the medium case stock, and you would probably see a difference if you went in the lower 3's for a ratio.

Diff ratio is a really cheap way to change the characteristics of the drivetrain. It can really wake a car up around town, or done the opposite way, improve gas mileage. Just look around locally for an LSD and you can probably get something a little steeper for $300-400.

[e30strokr]

Ive got a 1988 325 with the 2.7L super eta engine (comes with the 325i cylinder head).

I knew nothing about this engine when I bought the car, I assumed it was a normal 325i engine like all the others.

The car is great but feels a bit slow to me after being spoiled with a 300HP V6. Without machining any parts myself and without breaking the bank, what mods could I do to get more power out of this engine?

I'd like to break 200HP if possible, at least 220 would be ideal.

Ive read that performance chips (such as the tuner motorsport Jim Conforti) can be installed to get an easy 20HP on 93 octane. Would this work on the stock seta internals?

Bleh. I dont know, Ive read too much on this and found conflicting opinions for nearly every mod, what are your guys thoughts?

This'll also be my first "built" engine, as Ive previously kept my vehicles stock, save for maybe an exhaust and CAI.

just to clarify you already have the "I" cam and dual springs?!?? or just the regular 127 hp SETA engine and want to build it up?!?!?

[ThatOneEuroE30]

You don't need a gates timing belt to turbo an M20. lol. That's rediculous.

I like to think of it as an insurance policy On the rest of the motor.

[threadediron]

You don't need a gates timing belt to turbo an M20. lol. That's rediculous.

So would you say you could run a turbo kit on a stock M20 with no ill side effects? How high of a psi could you run before you start losing reliability?

I mean, of course and psi greater then 0 surely will be less reliable than the stock engine, but basically what Id like to know is what psi should you keep it at to be safe.

[threadediron]

If you are just wanting a little more seat of the pants pull, swap your diff ratio.

Chances are, you have some highway cruising gears that are great for mpg and not buzzing the motor at 55, but around town feel like mud.

Go find something a little steeper (if you look around you can find a posi for a couple hundred or some one giving away an open for near beer money) and I am sure you'll be a little more impressed.

Of course, the trade off will be less gas mileage and a higher cruising rpm on the freeway, but it'll change the feel of the cars power band.

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk

Are diffs for these cars basically plug n play? Ive been thinking about swapping in an LSD... Its not a bad idea considering it will give me that "seat of the pants pull" as you so eloquently said hahaha

[djjerme]

If you are just wanting a little more seat of the pants pull, swap your diff ratio.

Chances are, you have some highway cruising gears that are great for mpg and not buzzing the motor at 55, but around town feel like mud.

Go find something a little steeper (if you look around you can find a posi for a couple hundred or some one giving away an open for near beer money) and I am sure you'll be a little more impressed.

Of course, the trade off will be less gas mileage and a higher cruising rpm on the freeway, but it'll change the feel of the cars power band.

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk

[E30 Wagen]

I also wouldnt be opposed to just saving my money for 6 months and taking some out of savings to just drop the ~3 grand I assume an engine swap would cost.

Just do this. If you're worrying about how much something will cost, then you can't afford it. Appreciate what you have for now, and use your time to research what your options are, make a plan, and be patient.

I did a bunch of autox events and a HPDE with my stock eta, so it's not like you need 200hp to have fun.

[nando]

You don't need a gates timing belt to turbo an M20. lol. That's rediculous.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I realize engine swap costs greatly vary, but does anyone have a ballpark quote for getting it done at a shop?



I know its looked down upon to have your engine swapped at a shop, but I dont have the time, know how, or any of the equipment necessary for doing a swap by myself.



Also, suppose I was to turbo the engine instead, would I also need to rebuild the engine with performance parts in order for the engine to handle the boost, or if I ran the turbo at a low PSI would that not be necessary?

To turbo an m20 as long as its a mechanically sound motor to start with. You can just slap the turbo kit on and run low psi like under 10 i believe. But you will need a gates timing belt. Thats a must on any m20 really. Other wise. Im currently building a turbo m20 I'm using stock parts except arp head studs and gates timing belt.

[threadediron]

Swaps never cost what is originally budgeted unless the budget is unlimited. When i started my m30 swap i though id spend 2k max since i got a hell of a deal on the motor. Well about 4k later and I'm finally to the point i should be able to drive it. I also did this work by my self. Im not trying to discourage you from doing a swap cause its the best option besides turboing your car. 2.7i motors are great motors for boost. 3k can get you a swap easily and maybe even find a drop in one being sold by someone here on forums but i don't think any shop will get it done for 3k. The going labor rate in a shop is around 100 an hour. So that means for 3k it would have to be done in 30 hours and have zero cost in parts.

I realize engine swap costs greatly vary, but does anyone have a ballpark quote for getting it done at a shop?

I know its looked down upon to have your engine swapped at a shop, but I dont have the time, know how, or any of the equipment necessary for doing a swap by myself.

Also, suppose I was to turbo the engine instead, would I also need to rebuild the engine with performance parts in order for the engine to handle the boost, or if I ran the turbo at a low PSI would that not be necessary?

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Swaps never cost what is originally budgeted unless the budget is unlimited. When i started my m30 swap i though id spend 2k max since i got a hell of a deal on the motor. Well about 4k later and I'm finally to the point i should be able to drive it. I also did this work by my self. Im not trying to discourage you from doing a swap cause its the best option besides turboing your car. 2.7i motors are great motors for boost. 3k can get you a swap easily and maybe even find a drop in one being sold by someone here on forums but i don't think any shop will get it done for 3k. The going labor rate in a shop is around 100 an hour. So that means for 3k it would have to be done in 30 hours and have zero cost in parts.