Joey. What would I do if I just bought a M20 powered car that leaked....first, get under there and find out for certain that it is the rear main. The oil pressure sending unit is near the filter and is a known leak point. Oil can blow around like mad under a car, so do not assume. However, Joe is likely right, but check around in other areas too.
As far as the "Zoomier" options...torque is fun. Torque is good. I am sure a M5x has more torque than an M20...but a M30 has a BUNCH more than an M20.
I have a deep dislike for mechanical noises from the M20. If mine sounded as nice as Curts' car, I would be OK with that...as long as I dynamatted the hood. Both of the motor options you mentioned are far quieter than the M20.
In the "sexy" department, the M60 wins, but the M5x is close behind it. M30s can look good, but not like the M50.
If the noise/sexy/torque issues are not the end of the world for you, do the Mark D' chip and a 2.7 stroker, either the SETA/i setup or the e/M20B23 head deal. There are advantages to keeping the stock stuff stock.
The M30 is such a beast. Snarly, tire shredding beast. I bet A/C could be retained, but at a price. Oh well, such is the price for fame. I don't know of another M30E30 (aside from Ed) in the Pacific NW...do you?
Otherwise, the M5x deal is the winnar. That is why it is so popular!
Luke
-
I wasn't aware the M52 was capable of that sort of power. That, combined with the possibility of keeping the A/C may make this a better option for me. Is that pretty much the end of the line for M52 mods? Unfortunately I don't think I can afford any of the S family engines, how much are they? I'll post pics soon :DLeave a comment:
-
not sure what your idea of "modest" gains are. but a m52 with cams dynos 230hp to the ground? if thats not enough go with a s52. i was just talking to ed yesterday about doing ac in my car when i get my swap done and he said hes never attempted it. it is possible to retain it in a m50/52/s50/52 swap but he has never done it. contact him on here, "ed chitwood". wheres the pics of this car?
Edit: youre not gonna get a full swap for any of those motors for $2k. im already in mine $2k and havent even got any of the extra parts i.e. clutch, belts, labor yet!Leave a comment:
-
If I were you I'd first check the general health of the engine. Compression and leakdown tests will indicate if the M20 is in good health or not. If it is in good health, I'd do the RMS and clutch job myself, and drive the M20 for a little while longer. If things don't check out very well, I'd think about rebuilding the M20 as a stroker.
Assuming you do all the labor yourself, the M30 swap will probably run around the same or more than a basic rebuild for an M20.Leave a comment:
-
I'm not shure about a M30 but I would think if needed you could relocate the compresor with custom brakets. Then go to ("the parker store") thats what we have here ,they make custom hydo hoses and presure lines, they would be able to fix you right up.Leave a comment:
-
I'm not entirely sure, I believe it has something to do with clearance. It's also quite possible the people who've swapped in the M30 just don't want to deal with the hassle so they've opted to not even try. I haven't received a solid answer yet, but it seems nobody can recall an M30 E30 with A/C.Leave a comment:
-
I know nothing about an M30, but what's up with not keeping the A/C?
I'm going from an S14 to a S52, and I'm keeping my A/C - just modify the hose ends and use the S52 compressor and I'm shiverin' in the car.
I'm no rocket surgeon, but what's the holdup from you keeping your A/C?
-BLeave a comment:
-
What would you do in my situation?
As some of you know I'm once again an E30 owner. Two days ago I picked up a 1989 325i 2 door 5 speed with 169,xxx miles which needs quite a bit of work, mostly interior. Don't worry, I still have the E39 540i6, though it's up for sale. I drove the E30 over to Mr. Funk's shop the same day and we noticed it was leaking fluid from the steering rack - great. Bought a rack and a carpet kit from him and that night Mr. Copperwheat, Jenny, and myself stayed out at my dad's shop until 12:30 AM cleaning up the interior and swapping the racks (THANK YOU Mr. Copperwheat).
Yesterday I take the car through DEQ (Oregon emissions) and the car passes no problem. I take it to DMV to get my new plates and tags then to Subway for the best sub I've ever had (and I eat ALOT of subs). I get to my parents house and park uphill in their driveway. Come out 45 minutes later and there's a HUGE pool of oil running down their driveway. I pull up onto level ground and see that it's dripping from the bellhousing onto the shield then to the ground. I check the engine oil and it's about a quart low, leading Mr. Funk to predict my rear main seal gave up the ghost. I figured since it's part of a clutch job maybe I'll just have Clutch Doctors throw one in, probably won't be more than $300. I was wrong - it's more like $510 for the clutch and rear main or $335 for just the rear main replacement. I haven't called other shops but I'm sure it's not going to be cheap (~$200). I figured what the hell, I have the cash, why not just go ahead and swap in an M30? Well today I realized it may not be possible to swap the M30 and retain A/C. I know many of you will say it doesn't matter much, but it does to me.
SO, if there's no way for me to have the M30 *and* A/C, I'm going to need another solution. I was planning on spending under $2k for the M30 swap, so I'd like to keep whatever I do around that price. I've thought about fixing the rear main seal with the help of Mr. Copperwheat then turbocharging it, but it does have 169,xxx on it so I'm not sure how well it'd hold up. I wouldn't be opposed to rebuilding it beforehand but I'm sure that wouldn't fall within my budget criteria. I could also go with an M50 or M52 but honestly it doesn't really seem worth it for such modest gains, UNLESS (need some feedback here) one of those engines would be better suited for turbocharging than the M20.
Please tell me what your plan would be if you were in my situation and why...
Leave a comment: