I don't want to put a short throw in, i'd just like to make it so that the shifter doesnt have a 4" swing while it is in a gear, and so it doesnt bang on the console in reverse.
what do i need to do.
what do i need to do.
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Replace the bushings... -
Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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i think its aluminum. is the shift rod joint the one that UUC charges a ridiculous amount for two tiny pieces of plastic? "delrin carrier bushing" or some crap.Comment
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Bushings would be my guess, as well.
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so which parts would i need.
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#'s 2,6,11,13
If you want, you can also replace #8, although most people don't.
-Erik
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mines sloppy like a lesbian college orgy.Comment
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i was going to say, join the club.. but, yours isn't as bad as mine.. and i think the slop plays a role in second working when it wants to. i am upgrading to a short shifter though. i just wish there were more options for me since i have the sheetmetal one, i think.. i SHOULD atleast.
1985 325e w/ i motor swapComment
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My Eta has the sheet metal style shifter. I replaced EVERY wear item on the shifter and linkage and installed a Z4 2.5 lever and it's fuckin awesome.Comment
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I replaced all the bushings on mine and i still have some slight play.
It felt like it was the part on the tranny that the selector rod connects to causing the play.
Tranny is probably fucked.
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#19 in that pic plays a large part in the shifter slop as well. Its a piece of foam rubber that firms up the pivot point between #13 and the rod attached to the tranny.
I replaced it with a more beefy piece of rubber hose and it made a world of difference.
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