Steering wheel shimmy

[Turf1600]

As low speeds, my steering wheel wobbles from side to side. Is this my rotors - or something more serious?

Thanks

[backtrail69]

Does it wobble faster when you drive faster? Might be a bent wheel?

[Turf1600]

It actually goes away at high speeds - and it most noticable at lower speeds.

[PeaveyBassist]

Unlock the steering wheel and jack the front end of the car up. Then sit parallel to the front left wheel. Jiggle the wheel/tire back and forth (like jerking the steering wheel left/right real fast) and see if there is play. If there is, have someone do your job so you can lay on the other side and see which suspension component has play in it (control arm balljoints, tie rod balljoints, or control arm bushing). If you cant see anything moving, hold the inner balljoint on the tie rod (just squeeze the rubber boot right next to the steering rack) and see if you feel play there. If everything is tight and the wheel/tire has no play in it then your tires could be cupped, or you could have a bent rim.

Will

[Turf1600]

I'll give it a shot. I was hoping it wasnt something i didnt want to fool with - the steering box is already leaking...........

[325iCabrio]

I'll give it a shot. I was hoping it wasnt something i didnt want to fool with - the steering box is already leaking...........

The steering rack is leaking? Or the pump? Because my steering rack leaks, and I have the same thing your describing. I imagine that's what's causing the problem.

[Turf1600]

Yeah - im dreading having to replace the rack. Is the e36 rack benificial in any way? Does it also use ATF?

[PeaveyBassist]

The steering rack leaking fluid wont cause the wheel to shimmy. Where is your rack leaking at?

Will

[Turf1600]

The only thing that im sure of is that i have to top off the res every now and then to avoid bad noises. I'm not seeing anything on the ground where i park?

[PeaveyBassist]

The lines came from the factory with the "one time use" clamps that you cant tighten down with a screwdriver/socket. If you have those, replace those with the normal clamps. The hoses will be soaked in junk up by the clamps and on the bottom of the resevoir. If its not wet there at all, then squeeze the rubber boots that cover the tie rods and you should NOT feel fluid in them. Air yes, but not fluid. If there is fluid in there, the rack is leaking and will need to be resealed/replaced. I've never resealed one and I dont know how much of a DIY job it is with the rack still in the car. If the boots do not have fluid in them, look on the lines that go from one side of the rack to the other, it might be leaking at one of those fittings. If its leaking there, the rack will need to be replaced (The "right" way to fix it), or you can just glob a bunch of rtv silicone stuff around the fittings so it doesnt leak anymore (the "ghetto" way, but it still works and will save you money for a while. I would still replace the rack down the road)

Will

[325iCabrio]

^ You can't reseal the rack with it installed on the car. It has to be removed.

My rack has been leaking for a couple of years, so I imagine, as time has gone by, it has damaged the rack and caused the small "shimmy" that I get. I only get it when I'm decelerating. My rack has a crack in the aluminum and can't be repaired, so I have to replace the whole thing--resealing it won't help.

EDIT: Here's a really good guide on removing the rack and the steps needed to reseal it yourself: http://home.comcast.net/~adamsjohn/3...eeringRack.htm

[CarsSuck]

That was a sweet write up. Thanks for the uber-useful post.