Intakes

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  • JK_E30
    replied
    Yeah you guys are right, it doesnt seem worth the hassel. Too much work for little gain, and Id rather not hydrolock my car. Even though I am in Arizona, that one time it rains could end it. Well thanks for the your guys thoughts! Much appreciated.

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  • Dibo718
    replied
    First off, IMO all intakes are bullshit. Sure they sound nice, but they never give you the HP they state. My bro has a dinan CF intake in his e46, runs low to the ground, sounds great, but hydrolocked his car before when i went through a little puddle no more than 1" deep. I think the only right way to do an intake in a m20 is to also convert to MAF instead of out AFM's, youll definatly get a little more power, just dont position the intake too low. MAF might be $600 but i believe its the only logical way to have an intake in a m20 and have it make a bigger difference than an intake alone.

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  • blunttech
    replied
    get deagle to design something for you if hes not working for ptg by now

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Originally posted by gearheadE30
    Normally, CAIs don't do anything, but taking air from the brake duct would definitely do something once the car is up to speed. The intake pipe would have to be quite large to maintain smooth airflow, though. I have an M42, so it may be different, but I think the best way to do it would be to run a pipe out of the stock airbox on the engine side and then run it down to the duct. BTW remember that it will be LOUD sucking air through the duct and valence.
    Why will putting it in the brake duct "definately do something"? The guy that tested the theory of ram-air intakes found that at 100mph, a ram air duct is making like 0.01 psi of boost. You really think you are going to feel that?

    With the heat soak the filter is going to experience down low near the baking Arizona concrete/asphalt, you are definately going to lose power with that setup. Intakes are just a no-no on M20's. But do it if you want, it will be stunner on your all-stock E30!

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  • Addissimo
    replied
    I'd say stock...

    it will be a whole lot of work for something that won't really work in the end.

    Get a mark d chip instead.

    /thread.

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  • JK_E30
    replied
    Originally posted by DrewO
    If i recall, a cai in Phoenix = close to 200 dergree air temp from off the black top. I think the best setup is the ram air intake through the left high beam.

    Bypass valves are about 40$$, good used engies are about 1000$$
    Yeah I didnt really think about the black top thing. thanks for that!

    and yeah 40 is nothing. lol

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  • JK_E30
    replied
    Originally posted by clavinZERO
    but man, if you get this long-tube thing working--- I bet it will sound mean as hell.
    Yeah, not sure if I am going to do it but idk.. i might.

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  • DrewO
    replied
    cai

    If i recall, a cai in Phoenix = close to 200 dergree air temp from off the black top. I think the best setup is the ram air intake through the left high beam.

    I also know several Honda guys that hydrolocked their engines in AZ using a true cai from AEM or whatever (no bypass valve).

    If you are going to use a cai I strongly recommend using an air bypass valve to
    prevent hydrolocking your engine.

    Bypass valves are about 40$$, good used engies are about 1000$$
    Last edited by DrewO; 09-01-2007, 05:58 PM.

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  • uofom3
    replied
    stock is the way to go in the intake side.

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  • rThor432
    replied
    Originally posted by clavinZERO
    Someone should post a link to that test some guy did dealing with the flow of a stock filter vs. an aftermarket filter. I believe, and many will recall, the OEM paper filter was the best setup. Most people will also say that the factory box /short-snorkel setup is the best for performance; but man, if you get this long-tube thing working--- I bet it will sound mean as hell.
    Yep you are right. The OEM paper filter setup flows the best. The only reason to go to a K&N style "rechargable" filter is if you dont plan on changing your filter at the regular (12k I believe) interval.

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  • gearheadE30
    replied
    Normally, CAIs don't do anything, but taking air from the brake duct would definitely do something once the car is up to speed. The intake pipe would have to be quite large to maintain smooth airflow, though. I have an M42, so it may be different, but I think the best way to do it would be to run a pipe out of the stock airbox on the engine side and then run it down to the duct. BTW remember that it will be LOUD sucking air through the duct and valence.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ablice
    replied
    Open your hood. Stare at the airbox and AFM.

    Ask yourself: Can I design a system better than BMW engineers did on this bueaty?

    Leave a comment:


  • clavinZERO
    replied
    Someone should post a link to that test some guy did dealing with the flow of a stock filter vs. an aftermarket filter. I believe, and many will recall, the OEM paper filter was the best setup. Most people will also say that the factory box /short-snorkel setup is the best for performance; but man, if you get this long-tube thing working--- I bet it will sound mean as hell.
    Last edited by clavinZERO; 08-31-2007, 10:34 PM. Reason: moo.

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  • german g
    replied
    the stock air box is better.

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  • dlmpsy
    replied
    Originally posted by dinanm3atl
    I must be REALLY lucky!!!

    My m3 has the dinan intake and it is inches off the ground behind the driver side tire just above the brake duct...

    60,000 miles! Lucky me!
    Hopefully your engine won't turn into a wet/dry vac when a good thunderstorm passes by, perhaps Dinan built in some type of bypass for the incidental splash of water.

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