What year E30 is the best to buy?

[Fidhle007]

A lot. I wouldn't worry about it if you get a decent, later 325i or IS. I'm about to hit 250,000 on the original motor and it's just as strong if not stronger than many 150,000 mile 325s I've driven. And it sees the 7000rpm redline almost daily...

[rThor432]

I'm with Jason. I like early models. I have an '86 4-door and 2 '87 2-doors. They are great.

'87 sport model cars are great bases to start with because they already have big swaybars, Bilstein shocks (that can be used with M3 springs for a nice suspension for low $$$), and BBS basket weave wheels. Great package.

I dont like airbags, so no mid-90+ cars for me.

I can't expect it to last me forever.

Sure you can.. two of mine have over 200k on them. Both run like champs (well one needs a fuel pump). They do last forever.

[Fidhle007]

Although to be fair, you'll probably only have to rebuild the top end which a reputable shop should be able to accomplish for around $3000 give or take.

[JiX]

^^ WOW, that's amazing guys. Any idea where I can find a socal car? I saw some awesome deals on craigslist, but never could get in contact with the seller because they don't post any contact info. Tried several forums, but most sell out of CA and the prices are out of my budget. Wish I had the money to buy a fully built E30 for any asking price, but I can only seem to afford one that's under $1,000. =(

[Fidhle007]

'84 318i. Auto.

[rThor432]

I can only seem to afford one that's under $1,000. =(

Oh man.. that's tough..

Decent E30's are getting hard to find. Good luck finding a straight one for under a grand.

[rThor432]

'84 318i. Auto.

Brawnz-it

[AlarmedBread]

Whichever one you can find that has no rust, everything else is cheap/easy to fix.

[rThor432]

Whichever one you can find that has no rust, everything else is cheap/easy to fix.

That's what I did with mine. Found a perfect straight schwarz eS with no rust and a clean title for $1000. The clutch slipped and the interior was a mess, but that stuff is simple to fix.

[BBY1104]

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/car/536823742.html

this is what you can expect to get for around 1000 or so. Find a nice car in and out that needs a little bit of work. the 318is are great on gas and the m42 is a great engine. IMO easier to work on and more tunning capability then the early 318i's.

Good luck on the search

[Moberg12]

Although to be fair, you'll probably only have to rebuild the top end which a reputable shop should be able to accomplish for around $3000 give or take.

If you paid $3000 for a head rebuild, I have a bridge for sale. you can get a long block from the dealer for around $5000

[Fidhle007]

It greatly depends on what you want done. A head rebuild on a 525 we did recently was about $4000 so I figure a lot less labor getting the head out, less valves to grind/replace, and less time to put it back in and I get a rough figure of $3000. I'm sure if you came to my shop it would be a lot less but I'm guessing, hence why I stated that in the original post.

[JasonC]

I can't believe some people will pay those kind of prices for stock head work!

[Moberg12]

With those highway robbery prices I would never bring my car to your shop. A stage 3 performance head from VAC is $2600, and a stock rebuilt head is $600. A reputable shop should rebuild a head for $300-$800

[Fidhle007]

Do you have any idea of the hours it takes to pull/reinstall an M50 head? Especially with Kate525i trying to "help," which probably adds ten hours...

I would expect to pay $400 - $600 to get my head rebuilt at the motor shop we use, and beyond that labor would be on my time. But if you want me to do it for you it's going to cost $60 an hour. Granted, pulling an m20 should only take a few hours but if you want it done right it takes time. I'm sure my shop could do a stock M20 for right around a grand so I guess my original estimate was too high, but still, there is no way you could get it done for $300...