Front Shocks and Springs R&R - what's involved?

[E30 Cabrio]

OK, while I had my front wheel off and I removed the broken sway bar bracket, I started looking at the front springs and shocks and was wondering how much work is involved to replace them with some H&R's and some decent shocks.

Do I need to remove the shock tubes, as they have a bunch of stuff attached to them.

I looked in the DIY section, but didn't see much, and I haven't checked my Bentley yet.

I would like to hear from those who have actually done this job as opposed to reading a book about it, as those experiences are more realistic.

I know I will need spring compressors. What are the time and tool requirements for the Front and Rear Shocks and Springs?

Thanks.

[Jean]

Disconnect sway bar U link from the control arm, disconnect (two 17 or 19 mm bolts facing the engine bay) the caliper from the strut assembly (and hang it with a zip-tie to not damage the brake line), disconnect the tie-rod end from the strut (use a hammer to hit the side of the point where the bolt goes through and it will slide out), disconnect the control arm from the strut (hammer again). Remove abs sensor (one bolt, then slide it out with a couple flathead screw drivers). Now, finally remove the three 13mm? nuts under the hood to drop the strut/spring assembly out of the car.

User spring compressor to compress the stock spring, remove the top 17 or 19mm nut (air tools help here), pay attention on what order the washers/spacer etc are in. Remove the spring, make sure spring hats are in the right position, install new springs and do the rest in opposite order.

You need basic tools, 13mm, 15mm, 17/19mm sockets/ratchets/wrenches. About an hour per side.

[Fidhle007]

Jean is bang on but you should really read through the procedure in the bentley. It will give you a good understanding of what needs to come off and then you can ask around here if you have any further questions. As a tech, I think the most important tools you can have are a bentley, a torque wrench, and a bottle opener.

Cheers and good luck!

~Brendan

[E30SPDFRK]

The ABS sensor has a plug in the engine bay that you can disconnect, also. I would recommend disconnecting the control arm before the tie rod just so you can use the steering to make getting the CA off easier.

[smonkbmw]

and while youre in there you might as well replace your control arms, and possibly tie rods.

[Fidhle007]

and while youre in there you might as well replace your control arms, and possibly tie rods.

Nah, only if there are any loose joints. It's not worth effort "just to be safe."

[TwistyTunedE30]

I did this last week when i swapped suspension from the 318 to the 335...sucks to do it on 2 cars at once. Just be careful that when you start hitting the control arm and tie rods with a hammer you dont hit the stud, dont hit the threads or the top because the tops will actually bend over. Best to use a jack aswell on the rotor so you can move the control arm up and down to get the control arm stud at a better angle. it took me about 30 minutes a side, not to mention the gayness when i screwed up both tie rods and control arms...It was a great time to upgrade to new control arms and m3 cabs though :)

[E30 Cabrio]

I think I have a clearer picture of what's involved now. This thread is more informative then the Bentley, which is why I posted here for opinions of people with hands-on experience.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.

[allwheeldrive]

Torch and some channel-locks will take the "locknut" for the inserts loose like butter. But i see you are in California. Probably don't have to worry about rust like i do.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Torch and some channel-locks will take the "locknut" for the inserts loose like butter. But i see you are in California. Probably don't have to worry about rust like i do.

I too was gonna bring up the gland nut as no one else had, and the OP asked about both. From my standpoint, that nut has always been the hardest part.

i took a piece of scrap metal from the shop and drilled two holes with small junk drawer bolts/nuts to corespond to the holes in the gland nut.

[TwistyTunedE30]

When i installed my billys, i used a chisel and hammmer and stood on the housing and smacked one of the indentions on the lock nut untill it slowly came loose...

[allwheeldrive]

Those ways will work, but its a bit messier and tricky if you are trying to save it and reuse it. Just need to heat the threaded area to break the rust bond.

[Nic01101011]

Soak the collar in liquid wrench, let it sit, mount the strut to the wheel for stabilization, then crank on it with a plumber wrench. This was the only difficulty I encountered when installing new shocks and springs. I also used this guide to help http://www.e30tech.com/articles/ I wouldnt clamp the shaft of the new shock with vice grips tho

[E30 Cabrio]

Soak the collar in liquid wrench, let it sit, mount the strut to the wheel for stabilization, then crank on it with a plumber wrench. This was the only difficulty I encountered when installing new shocks and springs. I also used this guide to help http://www.e30tech.com/articles/ I wouldnt clamp the shaft of the new shock with vice grips tho

Thanks for the link. Nice step-by-step descriptions and lots of pics for dummies like me.

Yeah, I'll have to soak it overnight at least and see if that works. I've used vice grips before on shock shafts, but usually wrapped it in a bicycle inner tube or similar to avoid marring the surface of the shock shaft.

[N2MYE30]

Whatever you do..use only a rubber hammer on the tie rod and CA bolt...ask me how I know.