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Anyone have a DIY for rear trailing arm bushing instal?

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    Anyone have a DIY for rear trailing arm bushing instal?

    Thanks

    #2
    it's not terribly difficult...really just a matter of putting the pieces back together. assuming you have the entire subframe out already and that the replacement bushings are stock rubber concentric bushings, simply remove the old bushings and press in the new ones. it's not too bad with a Cclamp if you take your time. make sure the larger 'shoulder' ends are facing the correct way, however - Inner bushing faces the center of the car, outer bushing faces the wheel well.

    but always remember...suspension work (and most other areas of the car you work on) in just like anal sex...you can never use too much lube. I replaced my bushings (with polyurethane, though) and for so long it creaked and groaned every single time i accelerated, braked...whenever the trailing arms articulated up and down. it was unbearable and embarassing to have anyone else in the car. we figured that there wasn't enough lube between the bolt and the metal sleeve inside the bushing (not sure if these come with OEM bushings or not) causing the creaking. my dad and i managed to undo the nut, slide the bolt 3/4 of the way out and lube the shit up with copious amounts of Molybdenum Disulfide grease. MolyD is my best friend! cleared up the creaking problem immediately.

    i love my car again!
    BRUTE

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      #3
      Polyurethane is known for creaking if not enough grease is applied. Silicon is the preferred type as it does not degrade the bushing material.

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        #4
        BTW, this is a really good time to replace old e-brake cables, Driveshaft center support bearing, switch to LSD, SS brake lines...overhaul everything all at once. took me a good day's work to throw everything under there back together by myself
        BRUTE

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          #5
          Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
          Polyurethane is known for creaking if not enough grease is applied. Silicon is the preferred type as it does not degrade the bushing material.
          Yes. we would have lubed with silicone again, but that would require us to remove the bushings again. we even tried some silicone spray, but it had no way to get in between the bushing and the housing. we'll see how well this method works out over time, but so far i am very very happy with it. only took us about an hour total anyway! we did use some silicone (provided with the IE poly bushings) when pressing the bushings in, i know it.

          thinking about it, the whole trailing arm really just articulates around the bolt itself, the bushing doesn't move.

          oh well...we'll see
          BRUTE

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            #6
            Thanks I'll get some silicone lube. I am doing CSB at the same time along with H&r race and billy sports, a camber caster kit, poly subframe and rtab's, poly engine mounts, aluminum rsm's, stock tranny mounts, a welded up and reinforced front subframe (TMS kit), aluminum M3 control arms, and new tie rods. I will have a busy week next week. I will probly throw a fresh water pump and head gasket on her also. I have dropped a few subframes before but I am a newb when it comes to replacing all these bushings....The only thing that I'll need next is sways. I cant decide what size sways I want. I have read that a rear sway bar can be counter productive.......

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              #7
              Originally posted by chrisesteschiro View Post
              I have read that a rear sway bar can be counter productive.......
              Alot of the hardcore auto-x/track guys here, run big rear rates (550lb/in and up) and get rid of the rear sway.

              Don't know about ditching the sway with H&R race, could go to the spec E30 board and see what sways they are using since they use that spring/shock combo.
              Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
              Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

              www.gutenparts.com
              One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                #8
                Yea spec e30 guys are running 21 front and 19 rear mandatory but some of the podium winners have their rear unhooked just setting back there. I am thinking about 25 front 19 rear, or 21 front stock rear. Its hard to make a decision because once I buy it I'm not going to change it out and I haven't been in someones car with upgraded bars.

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                  #9
                  I also bought new driveshaft bolts and differential mounting bolts, is there any other new hardware that I need? thanks

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                    #10
                    you can use cabrio front sway...21 mm
                    BRUTE

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