all you guys getting good customer service from IE must be dealing with a different company from the one I've dealt with. rarely do i get an email returned or if I do its weeks late.
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Question: Will this break? (Ireland Engineering content)
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don't by welded products from maniacmatt either.
Surfaces have to be matched. They spot welded the the tab to the bar on outsides (you can see that right above) and then with help of filler**(i misspelled it) welded those mismatched surfaces. Also if you look at first pic of the previous post. On the outside (where the surface gap is HUGE) they missed the bead, and ran a second one on top of it to correct it. Weld on top of weld. You're saying that's not excessive amount of filler?
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Originally posted by Aptyp View Postdon't by welded products from maniacmatt either.
Surfaces have to be matched. They spot welded the the tab to the bar on outsides (you can see that right above) and then with help of filler**(i misspelled it) welded those mismatched surfaces. Also if you look at first pic of the previous post. On the outside (where the surface gap is HUGE) they missed the bead, and ran a second one on top of it to correct it. Weld on top of weld. You're saying that's not excessive amount of filler?
And a properly done weld in a groove like that is just as strong if not stronger than one where the surfaces match up flush. I admitted I am not familiar with spring steel but the only disadvantage to a weld like this is increased heat input.
On thick material butting the pieces up tight is not proper weld prep! Have you ever done or even seen any pressure or pipeline welding. A tight butt is only acceptable on materials up to 1/4'' thick.
With that said I did not say the weld on those bars was done properly. With a MIG welder (looks to me like what they used) it should have been done in at least two passes where as here it looks like they have attempted to fill it in one which is not proper.
I replied to your post the way I did for two reasons one was to keep you from mis-informing the OP and two was to help myself and the other members of this board properly understand what exactly you were trying to say.
If you want to make this personal please feel free to post pictures and specifications of your recent welding and fabrication achievements and I would be more than happy to do the same.
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Welded roll cage for NC A&T baja team. And my amateur welds didn't break off road.
I am not trying to make it personal. And I have those same sway bars.
When I weld 2 objects together, I like welding surfaces together. Not welding one surface to another with gap in between.
I am not a great welder, I have lots of learning to do. but any one who has welded anything to a round surface knows to match surfaces as best as possible.
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Match surfaces and then add a bevel to put material into.My 2.9L Build!
Originally posted by Ernest HemingwayThere are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
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Miller 180SD. Should cover just about anything you need.My 2.9L Build!
Originally posted by Ernest HemingwayThere are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
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Originally posted by Aptyp View PostHey, matt.
Help a brotha out, I need a cheap welder for home use, know what's good? How much is good? I'm too dependent on school welder, but i got projects at home too.
Are you looking for MIG or TIG? I would assume you dont need SMAW, Unless you are welding thicker plate.
Right now ive got a Lincoln Squarewave TIG machine and im in love. It welds so smooth, Ive found myself looking for things that need to be fixed lol.
but i agree with the above post. Miller makes a better Wire fed machine than lincoln.
Millermatic brands are probably your best bet.
I would probably say a millermatic 180 would do you just fine. Depends on if you want a 120v or 230v unit. obviously the 230 would have a higher duty cycle and ability to weld thicker metals.sigpic
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